Hello! Sam here with JBugs.com
We just finished up with a bunch of major body repairs on our 1971 Super Beetle restoration
while we're borrowing a friends shop.
While we're still here, we're going to get to work on the chassis and we'll start by cutting out and replacing the floor pans.
While the floor pans were out, we did have to do some repairs to the front frame head
but we'll cover that in a separate video.
Before we start, we'll make sure to say, wear appropriate protective gear.
Work in a safe and well ventilated environment and only preform work that is well within your capabilities.
Cutting, grinding, and welding can all be dangerous so make sure to use the necessary precautions.
Before we cut anything, we'll take a few measurements of some of the pan mounting holes.
This will make lining up the pan and body later much easier.
We measure the position of the first hole from the front and the second hole from the rear
getting a reference point from the tunnel and from the front to rear, respectively.
On the drivers side, we also measure the position of the pedal stop that's bolted to the pan.
We have our chassis lifted up on its side so we can better show the process and we'll start with a sawzall.
We cut the passenger side pan along the edge of the frame head
cutting into the pan but not the actual frame head itself.
Almost all the way down to the tunnel.
Along the tunnel, we use a cutoff wheel to cut a slot into the pan that we can slide the sawzall into.
Then, we cut the pan along the edge of the tunnel
and [when] we get closer to the rear, we make sure not to cut through the heater cable tube.
At the rear of the chassis, I prefer to leave the rear floor brace.
It is seem welded to the chassis and has additional bracing at the torsion housing.
So, if it's in good shape, leave it be and cut the new plan replacement as needed.
Some replacement floor pans come with the brace attached.
Some, like the heavy duty pan we're installing today, don't.
We cut the pan along the edge of the brace, down to the tunnel.
Then, back at the front edge, we cut the last bit down to the tunnel and the pan can be removed.
We cut the heater cable tube from the pan so it can be reused.
We get to cleaning up the chassis where the floor pan sits.
I use a hammer and chisel to break and peal away the small strip of floor pan that is spot welded to the tunnel.
It can be tedious but takes less time and is less damaging than locating and drilling out all the factory spot welds.
We flip the pan over, so we can work on the drivers side
and after we remove the pedal stop,
the pan is removed following the same procedure.
After we remove the spot welded strips there,
we clean up the edges of the tunnel,
repair the frame head,
and then begin measuring our new pans.
The heavy duty pans we're installing come with the rear cross brace and the jack support unattached.
We set the pan on a chassis and then verify the holes on the new pan are correctly drilled
by comparing them with the holes on the original pan.
Next, we can start to fit the pan to the chassis.
We start at the rear, as the original cross brace on the tunnel, has a mounting hole
that gets overlapped by the new pan.
We can use that as a reference point
and we trim the rear of the pan to fit the back edge of the chassis.
Then, we get a front to rear measurement so we can trim the front edge of the pan as needed.
We set the pan in place on the chassis and verify the position for the front mounting hole.
Our front to back position is good but the pan needs to be narrowed a bit.
So, after trimming along the inside edge of the pan,
we set it in place,
and verify the measurements for all the mounting holes.
The front of the pan is massaged with a hammer a bit, to fit the front frame head.
Then, we measure and trim the opposite side pan using the same methods.
Once both pans are trimmed and test fit
well clean up the edges on the chassis,
and paint them with a rust preventer.
We do the same thing on the bottom side of the pan halves themselves.
Then, we can set the passenger side pan in place,
scrape the edges clean on the top side where we will be welding,
and then we'll get to welding the pans to the chassis.
I lay down a bead of weld, every inch or so, along the front,
rear,
and the spine of the tunnel from front to back.
The edges of the pan at the rear cross member and the front frame head are completely seam welded.
The heavy duty floor pans don't have the provisions for a battery, leaving the choice up to the installer.
I fab up a stock style lip out of a piece of angle iron
and after verifying the position from the original pan,
I weld it in place to the new pan.
The original heater tube cable is cleaned up and it's welded in place on the pan.
We weld a fender nut in place at the cross brace for the battery clamp plate to bolt to later.
All the edges and welds are painted to protect the bare metal.
The drivers side pan is installed following the same steps.
We install the cleaned up pedal stop and verify its position using the measurements we took earlier.
Then, we'll do some clean up and seal all the seams on the pan and get it ready for reassembly.
But we wont' bore you with all that.
Keep an eye put for out next video where we'll cover the repairs we did to the frame head.
Thanks for watching!
Make sure to click the like button below, hit subscribe if you haven't already
and when you need parts for your vintage VW, head over to JBugs.com