Hey welcome back to Man Sewing.
It’s Rob and today I’m going to teach you how to hem your pants without removing
this bottom cuff.
If you take this bottom cuff off, your jeans just aren’t jeans anymore.
I did it once.
I took this cool pair of pants that were just way too long, fit nice around the waist, but
I went ahead and just cut the bottom off, rolled them up underneath and hemmed them.
And they looked terrible.
So I’ve figured out a way to do this and keep the cuff in place.
I’m going to walk you through it here, starting with step one.
So we’re going to do this but I do need to let you know, the most important thing
is that we don’t cut anything until we’re doubly sure they fit perfect.
So these pants came from a terrific model, my gorgeous wife who happens to be out in
California.
So one of these cuffs, I have technically already stitched to the point where she has
tried them back on and we know she’s happy with the fit.
So to get to the place where you’re happy with the fit, if they’re your jeans, you’re
going to put them on.
Oh, stop there.
Please make sure you’ve washed your jeans a few times.
I did that once also.
I hemmed my wife’s pants and she hadn’t washed them and then they shrunk.
So please make sure you’ve washed, if these are brand new jeans, wash them two or three
times first.
Then you’re going to put them on.
And you’re going to simply and roll the cuff up until this part right here is hitting
the floor the way you like or the top of your shoe the way you like.
And you’re simply going to go ahead and put a couple of straight pins through.
So I’ve got one here.
And I’ve got one on the other side just to, to secure it.
Then what I did originally was I laid both legs next to each other and I folded them
up so this point was actually at the same height and these matched.
And then I did slide a little ruler in there to keep it consistent all the way around.
The other thing you can do to keep it consistent is use your actual seam allowances from the
inside of the jeans, keeping them right on top of each other will help keep that seam
nice and tidy as well.
So your first step truly is fit the jeans.
Make sure they’re pre-washed, I already said that.
And then go ahead and get them on and mark them to this point.
Once they’re at this point, the second step is going to go ahead and we’re going to
iron a crease in here as our marking point, ok?
So we’re just going to come right over here to our ironing spot.
Again, I’m just double checking that everything is perfect, as it is.
And then I’m going to press a real hard crease in here.
A lot of folks believe that fabric has memory.
So that means that if you press and then rearrange your fabric or if I were to open this up,
it will go back to the state it was when it was last cool.
So I’m not going to manhandle this too much until my fabric is totally cool.
But I’ve set a nice tight crease.
Ok, so while that is cooling, let’s talk a moment about your sewing machine set up,
ok?
So if you have the opportunity to have a free arm exposure or take off your tool tray so
we can get that leg of the pant around there, that’s going to be really helpful.
Not necessarily a requirement but helpful if not, you’re sewing with the fabric up
and around the foot.
The other thing is I have a denim size 80 needle in here.
Now you choose the size of your needle based on the thread you’re using.
But you choose the kind or the style of needle based on the kind of sewing you’re doing.
We’re using jeans, denim needle because I’m sewing through jeans and denim today,
right?
Now the other thing I want to point out is I am not using this gold-colored thread, right?
A lot of folks will also do that.
I’m going to use a blue thread that matches the denim itself so that it goes invisible.
Now that my crease has cooled, I’m going to be able to go ahead and simply just take
this and I just start to slowly unroll it until I can literally feel the crease.
I think if I do it this way, you’ll see better.
I can feel the crease on my finger and my thumb is right above there.
So this is how I guide my fabric right through the machine.
My finger below on the crease, my thumb on the top.
Ok, so I just want to double check and make sure that you really are understanding this
because I know it sounds a bit odd.
But I have this crease right here under my finger and the seam allowance or this gap
between the cuff that already exists and where the denim meets it there, that is right where
that pressed sewn or that pressed line is, that ironing, that crease line is, right in
there.
So I can really feel that.
And that becomes all of the guiding that I have, ok?
So from that point on, I’ve got a nice pinch on there, and I’m just sliding this over
the free arm of the sewing machine.
And one of the things I’m not going to do is I’m not going to start right on one of
those thick, lumpy spots.
I’m going to let myself get a little bit of trajectory going.
A little bit of momentum first, ok?
So I’m just double checking to make sure I’m real happy with that.
And then I’m going to line it up also so that as this drops here, my needle is falling
right here.
The needle is falling right here on this.
So that when it’s done and this gets folded in, you don’t see it at all, ok?
So that’s what we’re doing here.
You ready?
I am.
I can feel it nice.
And I’m just going to slowly go here.
Now because this is going to be a washed sample, I’m going to hit the reverse button and
do a few backstitches.
And now we’re going to head forward.
You’re going to go all the way around.
Ok, now as I’m approaching the thickness of the side seam, this is a really good point
to reevaluate.
If my side seams were starting to stagger and not look correct, I would stop and tear
out my thread and restart.
So that’s a really good way to check to make sure you’re still on target.
Constantly squeezing my seam.
And now as I come up and over this one big seam, I might have to give a little encouragement
as I go.
And so what I’m doing here is I don’t want to distort my fabric.
I’m kind of pushing and pulling at the same time as I go through there.
And then not a problem.
Just keep on rolling.
One of the things that happens for a lot of folks is as your presser foot goes up too
high, what that does is it releases your tension system on your machine.
So a lot of folks will break thread about that point and it’s actually not that the
density of the jeans was too much, it’s that the seam allowance, excuse me, the, the
tension opened up and your threads got all bound on things.
Ok, coming through here, double checking.
Just for a moment, I needed both hands on top.
I’m also coming into that finish so I’m giving a little bit of a tug through the back.
And then one last backstitch to really lock in that, that thread because, like I said,
this is going to be in and out of washing machine constantly, right?
These are your favorite jeans.
So we’re just going to cut that.
And at this point, the next most crucial step is that we roll this back under correctly.
Visually make sure you like your cuff.
So you’re looking all around as you go.
You want to see all your gold thread.
And then what we’re going to do is we’re going to go ahead and press it.
This point is fun for me because my models come back out, right?
So that beautiful wife of mine comes in and she tries on her pants and tells me what a
nice job I’ve done for her.
Or not, the first time because I forgot to fold it right and I put them on and made her
a pair of knickers I think.
So what I do is I’m just pressing that there.
And so that way when she goes to try them on, it’s going to hit on her shoe or on
the floor just as she likes, ok?
Once we know we love that, then what we’re going to do is we’re going to open this
back up.
We’re going to cut this part off.
Once you cut this off, you’re not going to be able to put it back on.
And that will affect the size of the pants so please make sure you really love your jeans
before you do this next step, ok?
You can use a nice big pair shears.
I’m actually going to use a rotary cutter and ruler.
So I’m just going to roll this to this side, ok?
And we’re going to use roughly a quarter inch seam allowance, ok?
A little bit larger is ok and then I’m going to zig zag this closed.
So we’re ready.
We’re going through.
Got a couple of layers there.
Well maybe it might be easier for my shears.
Sometimes the nut on the cutter isn’t giving me enough drop.
I think I’ll use my shears for that.
I’ve got a nice big nut on that cutter so it’s hitting my ruler more than it’s hitting
the pants.
But it gave me a good line to work with.
Just like that, ok?
A little extra over here.
Beautiful.
Now what I need to do is just take a moment and I’m going to switch out my presser feet.
I still have the free arm exposed because I’m going to want to be able to stitch this
just the same.
And I’m going to find the foot that allows me to do a really nice zig zag.
So there’s a nice wide foot there for me.
And then I’m going to use one of the stitches, you can use a zig zag and that’s good.
If you have one of the stitches that does like a diamond pattern, that’s better.
If you have a true hemming stitch, that’s the best.
What I also do though, because it’s denim, we can lengthen our stitch up a little bit
so that we’re not using a lot of thread and a lot of a back and forth motion.
So I’m going to get the machine set up for us real quick here.
Ok, so I’ve got the machine all set up for you.
Here’s kind of a sample of the stitch we’re going to use, right?
Just a nice little diamond pattern.
And as I bring the jeans over, I’m doing a last inspection to make sure, if I’ve
got any long spots that look like they’re going to be funky, I’m just going to trim
them down.
Because I’m going to be looking at this edge as I sew instead of the gap at the cuff,
right?
So again, as I bring this onto the machine, I’m dropping the presser foot down.
I am not starting on one of the big thick spots.
And I’m going to try to let this stitching happen as close to the edge so that it’s
kind of finishing off what will be the rough edge up inside the leg of the pant.
Sometimes with these back and forth stitches, we have to give it a little extra TLC to keep
it flowing through because there’s so much movement to the needle in the feed.
And then also, as I sometimes approach that cuff, I’m just going to lift a little pressure,
scoot a little forward.
Remember this is just a finishing stitch.
No one is going to ever see this.
This is just to keep the threads tidy in the wash and dry.
Oop, I’ve got to give it a little more encouragement.
And that does happen.
Ah, back on track and loving it.
Now once this is done, of course, I’m going to try the other leg.
And then, I think, if my wife looks as good in these pants as she does in everything else,
I should probably take her out to dinner.
Treat her to something nice.
Hey, I’m coming into that finishing zone now so what I’m going to do is I’m going
to run about an inch past where I started.
Like I said earlier, you’re not going to ever see this part.
And that just locks in our stitches nice and tight.
And from this point on, I’m going to pull this out.
I’m going to trim off that thread.
And then I’m going to give it one final pressing.
And for this, let me see if I can do this so you can see it the best.
I’m going to take the iron and I’m going to slide it up inside the pant leg now.
So that I’m really pressing the part I just stitched together nice.
So I’m just going to flip this over, iron the other side from the inside as well.
And we, my friends, are all finished.
So you’ve got a killer pair of jeans that are going to fit you perfect.
Look like they were never altered whatsoever.
And it was so simple, I’m speechless.
With that said, my wife and I are getting dolled up.
We’re going out for dinner until we see you again on Man Sewing.