Motorcycle fairings are often discarded because of broken tabs and bolt holes or missing pieces.
In this video, we will use the PlastiFix kit to copy an existing tab with the molding bar.
We will then recreate the missing tab here.
Prepare for the repair by transferring the PlastiFix liquid into the applicator bottle.
Unscrew the top from the applicator bottle.
Push the tip sideways until it breaks free.
Use the pipette that was included with your PlastiFix kit to transfer the liquid to the applicator bottle.
Continue until the applicator bottle is full.
When the bottle is full, replace the tip by snapping it into place.
Install the needle onto the applicator bottle by pressing it onto the tip, then remove the needle cover.
Remove the tip from the powder bottle and fill the dispensing cup with powder.
We will be using the white powder for this repair.
We will use the molding bar to make a copy of this tab.
Drop the molding bar into boiling water.
We heated the water in a microwave.
It takes just a few minutes.
Allow enough time for the heat to soften the molding bar all the way through.
Remove the molding bar from the boiling water and it will be pliable for a short time.
While the molding bar is still pliable, form the molding bar around the tab that you will be copying.
This must be done quickly before the molding bar hardens.
Allow time for the molding bar pattern to solidify, then remove the pattern of the tab and set it aside.
Use a rotary tool with a teardrop shaped cutting bit to remove the paint where the tab will be created.
Remove as much paint as possible, as PlastiFix does not bond well to a shiny surface.
Blow the dust away with compressed air.
Get the pattern that was created earlier and decide on the best location for the tab,
and then tape the pattern into place.
The technique to apply PlastiFix is shown here in slow motion.
Squeeze two or three drops of liquid onto the powder,
then use the tip of the needle to stab the ball of liquid and powder.
The hole of the needle is on the side of the needle, not at the tip.
When you transfer the ball of liquid and powder to the pattern, give the bottle another squeeze.
The liquid will run down the side of the needle and wash off the ball.
Continue using this method until the mold is filled with PlastiFix.
Allow time for the PlastiFix to cure.
Once it is cured, peel the pattern from the PlastiFix.
This may be a little bit difficult, and you may need to get a screwdriver or something to aid in the removal.
You may need to fill in some voids that were not filled while the pattern was in place.
Again, allow time for the PlastiFix to cure fully.
Use a rotary tool with a teardrop shaped cutting bit to shape the tab and re-drill the bolt hole.
Grind away excess PlastiFix so that the thickness of the tab closely matches the thickness
of the tab that was copied.
PlastiFix can also be sanded if necessary.
You should now have a strong tab that closely resembles the tab that was copied.
Sand any area where primer will be applied with 320 grit sandpaper.
Tight spots may need to be sanded by hand.
Apply a high build flexible primer surfacer and allow time for it to dry.
With 320 grit sandpaper, sand the primer until the entire part has a smooth finish that is ready for a topcoat.
Apply the topcoat according to the paint manufacturer's recommendations.
Here, we are applying a base coat and clear coat.
Here is how the tab looked before and after it was replaced with PlastiFix from Polyvance.