This is one of my chain drive units. It has a mounting cradle on it. This is an
optional 100mm outside diameter flanged output shaft to take the Lobro type CV joints
that you commonly find on Volkswagens, Ford Sierras, things like that
That's one option. The other option you can use are standard Ford Fiesta/Escort push CV joints
like these ones. This one has, what I describe as, a pivot type carrier
It holds a differential in sets of bearings, imagine you've got your sprocket here.
It can be mounted in various orientations. This way it would be mounted with the reverse
motor at the front, if the sprocket was on the left hand side. It can be also flipped over,
right over, that way, and have the reverse motor at the back. The reverse motor always
has to be hanging out the right hand side due to the direction of rotation of the motor so
that you reverse 'backwards' rather than reverse 'forwards'. HaHa! I'll put it this way so you can see it better
It's running a 97 tooth gear on the differential body for the reverse motor
and then this is a 10 tooth gear on the motor itself. It's normally disengaged as
you drive normally but when you press the reverse button and this gear pops out and
engages with the teeth of the gear here. Just let me plug this into a 12 volt battery - try and get it the right way round.
I've just wired up a switch here so when you hit the button it starts reversing
Quite LOUD by the way! The gear's meshing makes it a bit loud but it's only engaged for short
periods so there's not too much trouble with that
In use you need to use a fairly high capacity battery to drive this if you're moving
a vehicle of any particular great mass. It will move cars up to about 550 kilograms but on
fairly level surfaces and smooth surfaces. The whole unit weighs somewhere in the region of
18 kilograms complete with the ATB type differential, output shafts, motor and the mounting cradle.
The mounting cradle itself - you can mount it as a pivoting cradle in which case you would
normally use, just turn it up this way, you would normally pivot on say the bottom mount there and run the other mounts
in quadrants to allow adjustment. There's a clamp down there for a quadrant as well.
The other alternative is, you can fit the cradle into sliding mounts so that you slide it fore-and-aft to get your
chain adjustment. As you can see this sprocket has gotta a two-piece sprocket that's got
split line in here. It's quite easy to change your sprockets or your chain if you
have the split sprocket. Saves you dismantling the entire set of drive shafts and pulling the whole
differential out just to change your sprockets. There is an alignment bush in the two split lines
which helps you keep a constant gap when you're assembling the sprockets onto the differential
These are ATB differentials are limited slip type differentials but rather than using clutch
plates and such like that would wear out, this uses a set of helical gears, cross gears
and spur gears inside. They need very little maintenance, all you do is pump grease into them
from time to time. So there's no oil running out of the ends of the shafts. Although, I do provide
lip oil seals on the output shafts to limit any dirt going in or oil or grease coming back out.
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