What's up everyone, Kevin here.
So today we are going to redo and perfect the drip system in the front yard.
As you can see all the beds are ready for planting.
I got to get irrigation set up. So I've got
a bunch of new fittings from Drip Depot who actually did the donation for the
last time we did this years and years ago.
So we're going to update it for the modern era for 2020 make some adjustments.
I'll go over what went wrong or what I didn't like so much about the way I did
it last time and then how I'm fixing it for this time.
So here's an example bed of the system that I have right now.
You could see we have a little one by one or two by two as the header row that I
hammered in the main line in to.
And then I've got quarter inch drip coming out that I just secured at the end
with a stake that just goes into the ground. Now I think it's an okay setup,
but what I prefer and what I'm changing it to is it's going to have a header row
and a footer row.
So there'll be an end row of mainline right over here with some end caps and I'm
going to switch this out to drip tape and not drip line because I like the flow
rate a little bit better and I like the performance a little bit better.
Each of the beds also has an on off. So if I wanted to,
let's say cap this bed off because it's got enough water but I needed to
irrigate the rest, I could go ahead and do that.
What I don't like about how I did it is I think this should be moved to down
here so it doesn't take up any of the space on the header row.
So I'm going to have to cut new main line and pop these off and move them down
to here.
So this is what it looks like when you're pulling out of an old sprinkler
system. You have to connect it to the sprinkler itself, which is right there.
It runs up vertically into a 90 degree connector into a filter to make sure no
particulate matter gets caught.
It goes down into a pressure regulator at 15 PSI and then it goes into the main
line. And the main line is what you're pulling out of over here,
let's say to connect into a bed. So that's the basic setup.
That's the basic logic.
Now what I need to do is go ahead and take one of these beds as a test and
construct the new header row with four lines of drip tape.
And then I need a footer row with some end caps on it.
And then I also need to take our on off valves and move them lower so they're
not taking up any of this space on the header row.
So we're going to go ahead and construct one, see how it works,
see if we can correct any inefficiencies before we extend it out to all 14 beds
in the front yard. Now before you even buy any drip equipment at all,
you have to calculate the total gallon per hour output of the system to make
sure that the parts and pieces you're buying,
especially the mainline tubing will support that. So for example,
my half inch mainline tubing can support a system up to 200 gallons per hour of
output.
And what that means is I have to add up every single length of drip tape,
sum all of that up and then calculate if that's going to put out more or less
than 200 gallons per hour. So in my case,
I think I had somewhere around 225 feet of drip tape and I have four inch
emitters.
And so I can say okay well then that's going to be 225 times three because
that's going to be four four four adds up to a foot.
So 225 times three 675 and the emitters are are a quarter gallon an hour,
right? So 0.25 gallon an hour.
So 675 divided by four is less than 200 cause 800 divided by four would be 200
and so I knew I was safe for this system.
That's really one of the most important pieces.
After that you can mix and match and you can do all sorts of 90 degree rotations
and on and off valves and T T splits and whatever.
As long as you're under the total amount of gallons per hour output that the
whole system can support.
,
So I've got my on-off valve there,
a 90 degree into our three lines of drip connected over here to a footer row.
And so just to show you that again, on a more classically shaped bed,
you're pulling out with a T connector,
you've got your on-off if you so choose to want to turn off the irrigation here
I went 90 to 90 into a header piece of wood to keep it nice and stable into four
lines with a footer row. And then we've replicated that here,
here, here, over here,
and then over here and here. And then all the way over here too.
And this is a really long one,
so this is three lines of tape all the way down to there.
So the rest of the system is all set up. It took a while to make sure that no,
every end cap was properly tightened.
All of the drip tape connectors were properly tightened and I had a couple of
leaks that I finally plugged up, but the entire system works and oh my gosh,
it's so insane how convenient it is to turn one thing and have all of these beds
here as well as the beds over here and even the long bit over here,
all set up on drip irrigation. All right, so it turns out,
I guess I didn't need to install the drip irrigation anyways because we just had
basically a flash flood here in San Diego. But I'm just kidding.
It's going to be nice to have this.
What I wanted to do was answer some of your frequently asked questions.
So on Instagram I said, "Hey, if you have any drip irrigation questions,
drop them and I will do my best to answer them." So as we're hanging out in our
rainy front yard, let's go ahead and roll through some of these.
So @ameliabretzing, she says, is the water pressure consistent in every bed?
And it wouldn't be if you didn't do that calculation that we mentioned earlier
in the video.
It sometimes can take a little bit of time for water to permeate through the
entire system,
but as soon as you get to that end point of the system and water starts coming
out of all the emitters, the water pressure is consistent.
The only reason it wouldn't be is if you actually didn't calculate correctly and
you are under pressure for the entire system.
@giraffekari says feeling overwhelmed where to start with drip irrigation?
I actually was too. So what I did is I went to Drip Depot, this is early on,
like maybe three years ago and I just emailed their customer support and I was
like, "Hey, can you help me out? I don't,
I've never done drip irrigation before."
And surprisingly because the customer service sometimes is like pretty bad.
Surprisingly. They just helped me design the whole system,
which is pretty crazy.
And actually Jack over at Drip Depot helped me troubleshoot some of the
calculations that I was doing for this system that you see behind me.
So that's where I started Drip Depot and they are the people who donated all the
fittings for this video. So first of all I would have used them anyways,
but second of all I just wanted to give them a nice shout out.
Oregon Dana on Instagram says curious about the approximate cost of your setup.
Yeah,
so this one would have cost somewhere around $200-$250 and what you're getting
with that is all the fittings you need to set it up, your 90 degrees, your Ts,
your end caps,
your takeoffs from the main line into the drip tape connectors and the mainline
tubing as well as the drip tape.
And I actually have plenty leftover so I can do any troubleshooting I need.
I can replace something. If it breaks, I can extend the system.
And so for me that's a pretty good deal. I mean,
I know that's a little expensive, but to do one action,
just turn the nozzle on and I can even put this on an automatic timer if I want
to and have the entire garden watered. It's well worth it for me,
especially if I go on a vacation or something like that. Shot by a girl says,
I would love to know the drip distances and drip rate for different
applications. That's a good question. So for me,
I chose four inch distance between each emitter on the drip tape and I chose a
relatively low flow rate of a quarter gallon an hour.
So let's say you have four feet right there and that's going to be roughly 12
emitters. Yeah, 12 emitters. Yeah, 12 emitters.
Mathematics. It's hard.
So 12 times four because I have four lines of four feet.
That means you've got 48 emitters,
which means you divide that again by four cause it's a quarter gallon an hour
and you're back to 12 gallons in an hour.
So this bed will put out 12 gallons of water over an hour.
If I run it, that's too much. I don't need that.
So let's say the bed needs a roughly around three gallons.
Every time I water it,
well then I only need to water it for about a quarter of an hour or 15 minutes.
So I can turn this entire system on for about 15 minutes.
And I know I've put three gallons of water into every single bed.
Beth van Boxtel asks, when you add compost or mulch,
do you cover the lines or do you keep them on top? So I'll be covering them.
That's just buried drip. That's a very common application.
It actually helps preserve the drip tape because it's not going to be exposed to
the sun and there's no issues with clogging or anything like that provided you
have no leaks in the system and no like little tears or anything like that.
So actually buried drip is probably the better way to go if you can. Okay.
Sow and Savor asks which is best soakers for the whole bed or emitters focused
more on the plant root? Yeah, that's a good question.
I almost think it's like a personal style type of thing.
As long as your plants are well established in the bed,
this style of application will be completely fine because then the roots will be
out far enough to reach any sort of pockets of water that the emitters are
throwing out.
If you really are worried about that or you like to direct sow into your bed,
sometimes you may want to do soaker instead because that puts out a consistent
stream of water across the whole soaker.
So that's really just depending on the way that you do it.
I like to grow my plants over in my seed starting area and then transplant them
in. And so for me it makes a lot of sense to go ahead and do this application,
especially because if I feel that maybe the drip isn't quite solving the job
early on in the plant's life,
I can just go ahead and hand water until they're established and then I know
they're good to go. Garden Socal says, why do you need a filter?
Where did you find the inline filter? So again, the filter,
I found at Drip Depot, it's part of the standard sprinkler retrofit kit,
but you need it because if there's any particulate matter that's coming out
somehow, like it gets in the water line or whatever,
you need it to be caught before it goes into your main line of drip system
because then you're just going to clog it and you won't actually know where it
is. So if it,
it's better to get caught there rather than to go into your mainline and get
caught somewhere in the potentially hundreds of feet of mainline tubing that you
don't know how to fix it cause you don't know where it is.
Beloved Hinata is the irrigation mainline the same as a normal waterline? No,
it's not.
It's a separate type of tubing that's used specifically for irrigation.
You can buy it in different diameters. I bought a half inch mainline,
which has a 200 gallon per hour output.
So the whole system has to be under 200 gallons per hour for good water
pressure. Mad midget says,
is there a way to do this for a handful of 10 gallon pots? Yeah, totally.
There is,
what you would do is you would punch into the main line and you'd pull like
quarter inch drip line out and you'd have a drip spike.
So you would spike it into your, um, into your grow bag or your fabric bag.
And then it would just put a targeted amount of water directly in the root zone.
And so I actually might do that because I might be putting some grow bags out
here. In fact,
I will be putting some grow bags out here and I can punch into my main line and
get a drip manifold. And like maybe let's even, I have 10 grow bags.
I could go one, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight, nine,
10 and pull in and just spike in.
And actually I have a whole video on someone who did exactly this.
If you look up on my channel Growing in 35,000 Milk Crates,
there's a guy in New York City at Riverpark, New York.
He grows for a professional chef and he did this in thousands of milk carts.
He did exactly that method. So check that video out. Okay.
Our final question is from crispy crackling pop.
Is it hard to set up for someone who is maybe not so great with things like
this? Yeah, I mean yes and no. Right,
so the way I think about it is like if you ever played with Legos,
that's exactly what you're doing.
The hardest part about this is figuring out the math behind the system before
you buy everything.
Like we've talked about a couple of times already in this video,
once you know that the system is going to support whatever you build,
then it's really just putting it all together.
I mean this design is not even that common.
I don't think like you don't actually need the footer rows that I have because
really all the footer row is doing is just acting as a way to keep everything
nice and tidy.
It's not helping the flow of anything and the only reason I did that is because
I didn't want to put a spike at the end of each of the drip tape and just adhere
it into the soil. I figured that's four points of disorder,
rather than just tying it all together and having a nice grid sit down.
So it's really not that hard. You just kind of have to play around with it.
And honestly when you get your drip you can just kind of mix and match and like
lay things out and put it all together and see if it makes sense.
Just like I did. I put this one down and I said, oh, it makes sense,
and I made some tweaks and then I just applied it to the rest of the whole bed.
Drip irrigation is super, super fun. I don't know what it is. I just,
I think it's very pleasing to look at. Obviously it's handy in the garden,
so I hope this was helpful. If it was, feel free to shoot a like,
feel free to shoot a follow.
Feel free to shoot a question down below and until next time,
good luck in the garden and keep on growing.