now we're going to cut the the tenon to the ends of these, I'll cut the haunched one
and show you how we form the haunch on the tenon so we got that white knife pass
we made now we can strengthen it
those are my shoulders
make sure they meet exactly on the corner which they do perfectly, then set
your gauge now setting this gauge can be a bit tricky but you've already got it
set to the mortise hole so it should be the same for the tenon so all we have
to do now is centre this in equidistance from each side so loosen the
set screw
eyeball the centre first of all and then just press those two pins right
into there and turn this around and I have a 1/32nd systems too short so I move
it a little bit longer and now I'm in the centre so now I can run my gauge
line here, one, two,
and three
so that's my, I wonder if you can see them now I run a pencil line in for you
I like to cut the shoulders on my tenons first and you see the value of
this knife wall the whole time you're working
you always have this knife wall because it's going to guide you with all your
subsequent cuts, can you just pass me that her hammer there
thank you
so I define that knifewall a little bit deeper like this very simple
this works so nicely
you don't have to hit the other wall you just chisel and then use the natural
splitting property of the wood and flick them out so I've got a little step down
there and that guides my saw
I'm going to make a stop on my bench to saw against because it can be a little
bit awkward
this is my temporary bench, nice thing is when you've got your laminated tops
ready
they do add some substance to whatever you're working from, so here I'm using a
regular handsaw normally you would be using a tenon saw for for this
so this is what we have to hand, try not to go below your gauge line because once you do
you're weakening your tenon, you're reducing its substance
flip over and do the same again just a light tap equal and opposite
forces here
use everything, once we get the bench made and we got the vise in I just took delivery
of the vises today so
all right I'm gonna show you two ways to cut this tenon and one is the very
conventional way when you take the saw and you saw across the top now I'm a little
bit limited here because of I've got no vise and I have no extra hands, nobody
to hold it for me
so I'm gonna do something here that's not conventional but it will work for me, it
may be a struggle, it maybe that's the whole point of this this is you
and me really working wood, it's real woodworking and we're working with solid
wood
so whichever one of these we choose now this one has a slight knot in it so I'm
going to use the saw on this one and I go on the way side of my line which is
this side of the line, we saw from the back towards my chest and gently lower
that saw into the top fibers once I've gonna across and got in a little bit I
start to drop my hand here to come along this face keeping my eye on the top at
the same time taking care not to catch any part of the
clamp
now I've gone down far enough I can go across with confidence here
this saw is 90 years old
listen
so I'm down, now the other way is to split this, this takes a little bit of
confidence
we need to chop here, so what we do is halfway into the tenon we split like
that and we take a direction of the grain and if it's splitting to our
advantage
same on this side so we can go across the whole of this tenon now this is
dead simple this is basic woodworking so now I move up towards the tenon cheek
gradually and I've got the very center of the tree here which is always a
little bit risky because it's not quite so predictable
so now I'm going directly into those gauge lines, right in, I'm not hesitating
straight in, the same on this one, now this is up to you you can be a bit more
cautious if you want to I just feel a confidence that this is going to work
for me
and now we got to pare down this face and you can take this out but that's how
you split or saw your tenon so I need to take a little bit off my shoulders there
and then I'll need to trim up the face with my poor man's router and I'll show
you how that works on a tenon now, the shoulder wasn't quite deep enough there
now it's done
so I want to take off some of the face maybe I'm not sure I've gotten close to
my lines so I'm pretty close but I have to test it in the mortise hole and
that's what we're going to do, here is the mortise we're going to do a hunch
mortise or a haunch tenon
so this has got to go in here
so I just check it's check it corner to corner, it's going to be very close
this but I don't want to split this top here it would be very easy if this is
tightening up here then it would split down here I don't really want that to
happen although if it did it wouldn't be the end of the world it just would be
disappointing so what I want to do is make sure the tenon is equal all the way
through and the way I do that is with a router
now you can use a regular router the problem is that most of them are too
short so using a poor man's router like this and you set it to the right depth
so it's
that is obviously too shy so setting it isn't complicated now it's hitting but I
need to anchor this to the bench top so I'm going to use clumps again these
clamps are great they're very inexpensive you can usually buy these
for
I don't know seven pounds, seven dollars if you're in the US, Harbor Freight
several different places really
so a couple of clamps just to secure it down and you might want clamps securing
the benchtop to your picnic table or whatever you are using now here, have to move
this again, I'm using this length here to register this against so this guarantees
that I don't go too deep
so here you can see what's happening that's where my line was and I was
cutting there, here you can see how this works like nothing else nothing comes
close to this so I'm guaranteeing that this face is dead parallel to this
face
now this is technique that knot was hanging me up a little bit
go in the corner here take my knife just to sever those fibers that are hanging
up there, and those will just fall out
see I've got a pristine tenon now, I know it's exactly parallel perfectly
parallel so I'm going to flip over
but first I want to test it in the mortise whole again because I may not
need to take anything off that other face so I go in here
see, that's going just fine really
and so is that one I'm still going to check just to make sure there's
nothing that's too high
let's see what we got here a couple little spots there, is it too high?
I think that might hang me up inside so I'm just taking off a little bit here
I'm going against some grain there so now I just use my chisel just to feather
there's a knot there
no router liked the knot
so I've got my tenon ready for cutting the haunch, cutting the
haunch is dead simple
it's so simple here what we do make sure we've got the top edge, offer this into
the hole now like this then we want to mark here
that's the width of the tenon so I'm going to be taking this part out then to
get my depth
I come in here like this and make a mark inside the seat of that haunch
there and then in both counts I can make a parallel line using my thumb and my
finger like this
so now I need to cut this away
sorry about that noise, cross-grained, I'm gonna leave my haunch
shy of the depth of the sixteenth of an inch there's no need this to be any
higher, I'll be glad when the bench is finished because then I'll have a vise and I'll
have my third hand that I rely on so much for, ok a little bit tight
if it's a little tight you really don't want it tight
this way you want it snug this way
I'm just a little bit tight on the top there
I'm just going to take a fraction off here
now this tenon has never been in this hole so let's see where it goes
I think that's good, use a block of wood on the end here
I think that's wonderful, little bit more just to seek that joint on top of
the other and they're sticking past a little bit so it's hitting the bench top
and there is my haunched tenon and I'm ready to do the round over on this
bottom tenon, I want to show you how we do that now