Today I have the great honor to climb with Magnus himself, and I actually already did a video on his
channel, so we're climbing a bunch of routes so definitely check it out, but when I was attempting
to climbing this route, I wasn't able to, so on my video Magnus will coach me on how to climb this
kind of tricky v4. Hopefully. I've already warned you that I'm a pretty bad coach. I'm
more of an intuitive climber. I have confidence in Magnus, I think he's too humble. His tutorial
videos on YouTube got a bunch of views, everyone loves it, so yeah I'm excited. I can try okay,
yeah. When I first tried this in Magnus’s video, I wasn’t even able to do the start.
So what you did wrong on this is that you were hung up, you have to sit further out,
you have to sit further closer to the edge, and from there you can just go straight to this,
and go as far out as possible. Yeah, now you have the balance, and now you can go up with your left.
Come on, yes, there you go. So why do you want to put the foot further away from the
wall instead of closer from the wall? To get your center of gravity closer to the wall,
you know if I put it in here I push myself out, but if I put it out here I am pushing myself in.
There you go, easy, come on, yes nice!
Get further down with your foot, yep.
Ah that's tricky too huh, so that's the thing with these problems like
it's hard to say from the ground, so I actually have to try it to know how it is. I would say
go down to this and then take this,
and then this.
In general, I would say try to stay a little bit lower on the wall, especially on slabs you don't
want to put your feet too high, you want to stay as low as possible always, because you want to be
close to the wall, because I see you're kind of trying to get the foot up always, but just stay
low and reach and then small footsteps always, because you go so high before you go out right,
you go first to this, but I would just stay low, and then you can easily, I'm almost not pulling at
all when I go to this. You see, and then I change my foot and I still stand very low and just trust
the foot, and then without any power, I can go to this. What portion of my foot should I put,
is it half of my foot? You just need half of the foot, if you can get your whole foot then,
but then at the same time you're standing kind of in a very very strange position if
you put your whole sole on. So I think just this the front of the foot here is enough.
So grab it like this, like that, that hand like that yeah, and then just feel, trust your foot.
Yep, trust your foot, come on. Yes, now slowly switch the foot,
good, now you have to trust it and then go, but just trust the foot you're not supposed to pull.
Yes, like that. Just feel the movement because I think you're able to grab it without using
any power, now you were doing it slow slow slow, and then the last part you were like uh,
but you can do a slow slow slow all the way to have it. If you feel like you have to pull hard
you're doing something wrong, you know, yes I do feel like I'm kind of pulling yeah. After a few
more failed attempts, no, no, finally I was able to balance myself, yes, come on, get the foot up,
get the foot up, come on, but I was having difficulty bringing my foot up. No, if I
attempt to get my foot up, I kinda inevitably fall backwards.
I'm just thinking if you can do a move to,
if you can grab this first, it's easier. Yes there you go, come on,
I think it's too hard for you to grab this. What's your ape index? Plus three centimeters. What's
yours? Minus two. Two inches or centimeters? It's two inches. Two inches so that's a lot yeah.
I'm sure there are more ways of doing this problem, I'll try to be creative.
Yeah that's easier,
so now it's a little bit harder to get up on this foot, but once you have this,
and you can place your butt into this, then it's fine.
All the way up there, far out, further out, yeah. Now you trust it get the gaston,
trust the foot, trust the foot, yeah that hold, yeah go all the way up.
Come on, yes and get your, get your hip in, into it, lean on it, yes, there you go, no,
that's good though. Magnus we've been climbing for a while, yeah, it would be great to have
some energy bars, yes, definitely I'm pretty hungry wow, thank you very much, is this yours,
yeah the energy bar I created. You created an energy bar. Yes, try it, try it out.
That's really good. The main unique sell point is it's organic, consists of real food only, yeah,
zero added sugar, so there's no bars like this in the market that I know of, at least in the US,
yeah, so I feel like you know there's there's definitely someone that would
appreciate this kind of bar. I really like it, it's very chocolaty, I really like it.
It's not like too sweet either. I also like the fact that it's no artificial sugar either, right,
because I don't like that. I like it it's natural you know, I think it's sweet enough as it is,
so this is perfect. You ready to try again, yes come on, trust that foot.
Trust your foot, come on. Oh.
I think it's important to get the left foot all the way here,
yeah as for the left hand should I grab it as high as possible or, I would grab it pretty high yeah,
because if it's low then it's going to be very tight for you. Nice, come on.
Yeah, get your hip in, hip in, hip in, yes, there you go.
There you go, now you have it. Just take it easy,
maybe get your right foot a little bit further out here.
Yeah, come on.
No, you could cheat the whole boulder and just grab the pockets on top,
if you have this, and you're all the way up here.
Yeah, get the hip in, yes, there you go.
Yeah, now get the hip like higher straighten your leg a little bit more, yeah, yeah,
work your way up, like little by little, yeah there you go, a little bit higher, come on,
you're missing five centimeters, like two inches,
you're like this far from it, I would yeah I would just try to work myself up a little bit,
you don't, it's not far away, you just need to work yourself a little bit higher.
But I just think that you can work your hip like further up that hold, because you can basically
be on your leg on that hold too, so you're like because this, your right foot is bent,
so if you straighten that out you get a little bit higher, right, if you can be able to reach it, but
I definitely think if you're always climbing at the same gym it's hard to solve stuff like this,
if you're used to going to different gyms and just trying a bunch of different boulders
it's easier, so uh, I don't know, I think it might be good for you to like test out
a few different gyms, and just yeah do a lot of boulders you know. Finally, this happened.
Nice, come on,
easy, come on,
get up on that, come on, get the hip into the wall, yes, easy, nice,
feel the balance,
try to get a little bit higher, I think you're almost there, yeah
what if you reach now with your left hand, a little bit to the right, there's another bubble,
that one is that better? No it's, try to grab this maybe, yeah,
yeah, yeah, nice, come on, yes, there you go, yeah, nice. Yes, finally!
Good job, yeah. I am so happy, I'm so happy, guys. Thank you so much Magnus for coaching me
to climbing that super hard v4, and guys I know if you're watching this video chances
are pretty high that you already saw the video that I did with Magnus on his channel,
but just in case you haven't yet, definitely check out that video on Magnus's channel.
Definitely subscribe to Magnus, I know you probably already did, but just in case you
haven't yet definitely subscribe to Magnus. Thank you, and uh, it's nice being on your channel,
yeah nice meeting you, nice to meet you Magnus I appreciate you, you too. I want to thank Magnus
again for taking the time to collab with me, especially when I can’t bring any new traffic to
him. I decided to support his clothing business, Rungne, by ordering a few shirts. His shirts are
made of wood and are very soft and comfortable to wear. Lastly, here’s a 15% off discount code
YOUTUBE15 for the first 100 people who would like to give 5BAR a try. As you can see earlier, Magnus
loves 5BAR, so what are you waiting for? Make sure to click the link in the video description below
to order some 5BARs while the discount code is still valid. See you guys in the next video, bye!