Welcome back to the Gentleman's Gazette and our series on eyeglasses.
In today's video, we give you a brief history of my glasses, we'll discuss the anatomy and
construction of eyeglasses, and we'll talk about different frames and what they say about
you.
If you have watched this channel for a while, you know that I've never worn eyeglasses and
frankly, I just wore them for this video, however, I know someone who has a long history
of wearing eyeglasses and he's also a new addition to our team.
Welcome with me Preston Schlueter to the Gentleman's Gazette!
Preston: Thank you very much!
Happy to be here!
Raphael: Awesome!
So, Preston, you're a jazz singer, you like 30s style and classic men's style.
For how long have you been wearing glasses?
Preston: I've worn glasses since I was three years old so it's been quite a long time.
Raphael: Alright and what's the style you are wearing right now?
Preston: Well these are basically a classic round frame in a tortoiseshell color with
a keyhole bridge and if that doesn't make sense to you right now, we'll cover those
terms later in the video.
Raphael:Yeah, so with that being said, Preston is the expert and I'm not so I'm heading out
and he's taking over.
See you later!
Alright so let's get to it!
Part one of the eyeglasses video.
In the first part of this video, we're just going to cover a brief history of eyeglasses
and how long they've been around.
The first mention of eyeglasses, as we know them today, which is to say two lens corrective
frames, comes all the way back from the 13th century in Italy.
With this said, however, it's also true that other cultures around the world had been experimenting
with similar kinds of ideas.
It wouldn't have been perfected until this point in the 13th century however, for example,
there's an Arabic text from the 11th century called the book of optics which essentially
laid the foundation for modern eyeglasses but again, it wouldn't be for another hundred
years that we would really see something resembling the first modern pair.
Bifocals which are lenses with two optical powers date to roughly the 1760s.
They may have been invented by Benjamin Franklin but we're not absolutely sure about that.
What is known is that he definitely had a hand in creating them.
A short time later in the early 1800s, a British astronomer named George Airy created lenses
that can correct astigmatism which is a fancy word for blurred vision.
Handheld glasses or lorgnette were the first style to be used.
Followed later by pince nez or glasses that were secured just on the bridge of the nose.
Of course, we also have to mention the monocle which was popular in the late 19th and early
20th centuries.
That's a single lens held in the orbit of the eye and it was popular among the upper
classes in that time period.
By the late 1920s, glasses with temples or arms fitting over the ears became the dominant
style.
Well into the 20th-century, eyeglasses were still considered primarily a medical appliance
and weren't designed with fashion in mind.
But by the 1970s, designers caught on that there could be a market in designer eyewear
and since then, we've seen all kinds of different fashion forward frames abound.
So what does that mean for eyeglasses today?
Basically, they're no longer an accessory to hide but instead, they're a stylish accent
that you can use to complement your wardrobe or accent your own personal style in general.
So what's to love about eyeglasses today?
First of all, they're optional.
Since they're no longer the only way you can correct your vision, we've got contacts and
laser corrective surgery.
You can wear them as often or as seldom as you like.
Another big plus is that glasses today are much more affordable.
Especially now that online retailers have gotten into the game and we'll send you multiple
pairs to try on at home for a relatively low price.
It's easier than ever to find frames that you're going to love.
Furthermore, retailers these days are offering a wide range of materials other than just
plastic or metal so you can definitely find something that will suit you.
Finally, it must be said that glasses make you look smart.
It's not just a stereotype, it's actually been scientifically proven.
Also, glasses can add maturity to youthful faces and the youth to mature faces.
If you find the right pair, they'll do what you need them to.
So now let's get into the basic anatomy of what
my glasses eyeglasses.
As you might well imagine, they're constructed of several different parts that work together.
Most pairs typically consist of a pair of rims which secure the lenses.
A bridge which connects the rims, and temples which extend over the ears.
Depending on the style of glasses, other details may also exist including nose pads, temple
tips, or a brow bar across the top.
But we'll get into those details later.
First, let's talk about the various construction materials that can be used to make eyeglasses
starting with plastic.
Cellulose acetate is a plastic polymer that's made from wood pulp and then molded into sheets.
Individual frames are then cut from these sheets and hand polished.
This is a little bit more labor-intensive than using simple extruded plastic so that's
where a little bit of the extra cost comes from.
As a plus, acetate is stiffer, heavier, and more durable than standard plastic so that's
why it's a good choice for eyeglasses.
Multicolored patterns such as tortoiseshell are far more beautiful and acetate since the
pattern was created over an entire sheet.
If it were extruded plastic, that pattern would have to be painted on which generally
doesn't look as nice.
There are a few disadvantages to acetate eyeglasses.
In general, they're harder to adjust than metal and they can be a little bit heavier.
They're also slightly more prone to snapping.
Overall, because of its beauty and durability, we would definitely recommend acetate as a
choice for your eyeglasses.
Next up let's talk about a lightweight easily adjustable construction material, metal.
Often you'll see glasses constructed from titanium, aluminum, or various alloys.
They're typically corrosion resistant which is a good thing if they're going to be sitting
on faces that might sweat.
Metal is particularly well suited to thinner frames especially in round or rectangular
shapes.
At the same time, there are a few disadvantages to metal frames too.
First of all, they can be easily bent or misshapen and because metal often has a strong memory,
they can't necessarily be reformed to exactly the way they were before if the bending was
severe.
There are people out there with metal allergies and they may run the risk of reacting to metal
eyeglass frames as well.
Finally, coated metal frames can also lose their finish over time which will cause them
to age faster than plastic frames.
Lastly here, let's talk about natural frames.
Though they're a bit harder to find and generally more expensive, you are still able to find
natural frames and such materials as wood, bone, or shell.
Wooden frames are a more recent trend and they're constructed similarly to plastic frames,
for the most part.
They're typically made from hardwood and then finished with a more precious wood on top.
Horn is another option often from a buffalo or a deer they're usually hand-carved and
then polished and because of their striations and matte finish, they end up being a really
elegant choice.
Tortoiseshell is largely illegal these days.
Any shell that was harvested after 1973 is not allowed to be sold but if you're particularly
determined, you could probably find a pair at a vintage retailer.
Be warned, however, they are fairly expensive because they're so rare.
Overall, natural materials can be a distinctive choice but they require a little bit more
effort and maintenance on the wearer's part so metal and plastic might be easier choices
to go with at least at first.
Next let's talk about some recommended styles of eyeglasses.
Fortunately, for the stylish gent, there are many types of classic frames that are currently
back in fashion.
Note that there are many variations on all of these styles so if you don't think that
some of the samples we're going to show today would necessarily suit you, there's a retailer
out there that will probably have a slight variation on what we are showing that might
fit you a little bit better.
First, let's talk about brow line glasses which are defined by a top-heavy strong frame
along the brow line and across the temples.
The frame is completed along the bottom by thin metal wires which have the general effect
of drawing the eye upwards towards the more defined part at the top.
This style is particularly evocative of the 1950s and 1960s when it was worn by notable
figures including Malcolm X or President Lyndon B Johnson.
This style is particularly good at adding maturity to youthful face but if you are an
older gentleman, be careful with the type of brow line frames you choose because they
can risk looking a little bit dated.
Browline glasses are great for creative people or those who are simply looking to blend a
bold statement with a more classic style of frame.
Round metal frames have typically been the choice for the counterculture, youth culture,
and other sorts of resistance movements, and in the last few years, we've started to see
them re-enter the mainstream again.
Favored by people including Steve Jobs, Gandhi, and John Lennon, they're a choice for somebody
who feels that they are just a little bit outside of the mainstream.
Overall, round metal frames are great for people who are creative and a little bit quirky.
Unlike round metal frames, round plastic frames with a keyhole bridge are the epitome of stylish
mainstream menswear.
These frames can add maturity to youthful faces but unlike browline glasses, they also
work perfectly well on seasoned gentlemen too.
For example, my own glasses happen to be in this style with a little bit of squaring across
the top and just a suggestion of a keyhole bridge.
So they're a little bit more modern but definitely still in this mold.
Finally, in this section, let's talk about rectangular frames which can make a variety
of statements.
Long thin frames are more simple and pedestrian, while thick rectangles in darker shades make
a bold statement for a man of any age.
This style is particularly good at adding youth to more mature faces particularly if
you opt for a bolder color such as dark blue, clear, or tortoiseshell.
Next, let's talk about how to find the right eyeglasses for you since finding a pair that
suits your own personal style, skin tone, and face shape, can require a little bit of
trial and error.
We've done some previous videos on how to find the right pairs of sunglasses for your
skin tone and your face shape which you can check out here and luckily they cover much
of the same territory but we'll still discuss a few of the key points here.
The biggest difference between eyeglasses and sunglasses is that most men are typically
wearing sunglasses for only a brief stretch of time.
On the other hand, you could be wearing eyeglasses as often as all day every day so you want
to make sure that you're choosing the right pair for you.
So stay tuned for part two of our eyeglasses guide which we'll discuss in depth how to
pick the right frames for your face shape and skin tone and also the best ways to shop
for glasses.
To wrap up today's video, glasses are now treated more like fashion items than the medical
appliances they once were.
They strike a unique balance between fashion and function and they can often be a great
visual shorthand for a wearer's personality.
So if you wear glasses, what kind do you wear and more importantly, how do you pair them
with your outfits?
Share with us in the comments below!
In today's video I'm wearing a vintage camel-hair jacket and a green shirt from Charles Tyrwhitt
the tie from Fort Belvedere is silk and features a houndstooth pattern in pearl gray and bottle
green also from Fort Belvedere are the cufflinks which are gold-plated sterling silver they're
an Eagle Claw design and they feature tiger's eye as the stone furthermore the boutonniere
is an Edelweiss also available from Fort Belvedere I'm wearing an English silk pocket square
the green echoes green elsewhere in the outfit and its primary colour which is a burnt orange
ties in with the various shades of brown that I'm wearing my trousers are plain brown my
socks are green and feature a zig-zag pattern and my shoes are tan derbies which feature
full broguing and as always don't forget to subscribe to the channel so you never miss
another one of our videos