good morning folks Kirk here with Kirk Giordano plastering, what I'm gonna do today to show you
some drip screen codes requirements what I have here is we have an existing house and
it doesn't have a drip screen which is not a big deal these drips creats are about 40 years old
the UBC uniform building code requires that this be installed on anything after I believe it's 73
about 40 years we've been well they've been using these generally when you have a house
that's stucco here they would go to the foundation in 73 they said no I don't know let's start using
drip screens on everything in it they made it a code requirement so if you have something say
like I just got an email to her fellow he had a shear wall and it went right down to the existing
concrete he says well how do i drip screed it and I said well if you have that only originally you
can go with this go in the flashing and then you put a drip on that flashing and you want
a two-inch ground clearance generally so the flashing will go on the deck a room or concrete
then the drip screens will go two inches above that then you do whatever you're gonna do here the
idea is to say if you're gonna tile and you want you want the expansion here that's on if you have
existing plywood a deck or a roof on the ground it's a different situation okay on I look through
all my code books and I found this one here it's kind of an old book but it's the international
code requirement I tell folks how we have been doing it for long as I've been in the trade over
25 years six inches above your ground technically according to the code requirement you want to go
this mud sill or it's called a mud sill or a sill plate that just means it's pressure-treated piece
of wood that goes on top of the foundation horizontally the bottom of this should be six
inches above the ground now they're still going to grade all of this so when they put them once we do
this stucco here this concrete here is going to drop down a foot and they'll have their six-inch
ground clearance now technically the screen the bottom of the screen here when I place this guy
on here like so this should be four inches above here we're going to get six easy and I generally
do good soos that's what I prefer and this right here is called a drip screed or weep screed both
mean the same thing similar to if you're calling a mud sill a sill plate and that's s I ll not FAL
so this has a couple names this has a couple names and when I buy this from the material yard I call
it something else but I don't want to confuse you guys too much anyhow when I tie this existing to
this new I'm going to have my drip screen where it's proper up to code and where I tie this in
where it's not up to code I'm going to go ahead and bring my paper down to the to the concrete
here and then I'll just tie everything together I'll show you it as we do it but at this stage
we're a little ways away they didn't have the vents of a homeowner what to get the Benson I
tell them to well gee you got the vents and I'll staple them on so that we can continue our process
so that's what we're waiting for when we get to that stage we'll show you how to do that okay guys
these beds finally got here we had a chance to do all the paper prior to them so what I'm going to
do now is I've installed the one here and usually the vents are always on a job and installed prior
to us getting here so we're just lifting it up popping a staple on and I'm leveling these vents
out and using my gun generally the penny now or so I get that and I'm using this 2x4 as a template so
I get a straight edge but Penson they're going to pull the paper down like so this gives us a
nice the finial around the vents we take our knife wherever my knife is and then I'm going
to cut around here that way these are watertight and I tell the homeowner hit the level blue blur
typing this way you don't have these louvers the water sometimes just goes through those regular
heading and rots out the mud still so a few bucks going to the rulers and again we'll we'll show you
how to cut them out here and then we're ready to wire it pretty simple it just takes time in we'll
show you that pretty soon okay guys that's just a common sense thing but I'll show it to you with a
new blade on your utility knife just follow the pattern we wire this these are water time we're
going to put a bead of caulking around we are this thick paper here because the Ben aside this but if
water ever goes through that side II will going back to this belly band on top of this on top of
our two layers of papers and out through these holes harmlessly on the foundation where it's
designed to do okay last thing we're going to do is wire this and I'll even show you guys that part
too okay guys we're putting that final touches on this ball job point out a couple things when
you put your corners on the corners got a line up to here and it's also got a line up to where
these this mitre is that way it's true another thing is I say this on most of my videos here's
a good polyurethane talking to go around all the vent pipes and things of that nature and we're
going over here on this side a lot of people always ask me well shouldn't we take all these
pumps off here's a rule if the cleanse don't pass here they're fine you can leave them on it's not
past this wall here because they can get in Betty but if they're past this then you can pound them
down or cut them off like I cut a whole bunch of them off that we passed this so hey huh hope you
guys learned something with this and we'll see you guys on the next one thanks for watching