Narrator: At the center of Morocco's ancient city of Fez
sits a piece of history.
The Chouara leather tannery is the oldest in the world.
Amid a multitude of colors and powerful odors,
tanners here transform animal hides into leather.
And their methods date back to the 11th century.
But the work is incredibly time-consuming
and labor-intensive.
Narrator: Adil Al-Kharaisi has been doing this job for over 30 years,
but the tanning process that he loves
relies on heavy chemicals that pose health hazards
to him and his coworkers.
Narrator: And some say they're no longer willing to take the risk.
So will this ancient craft
continue to stand the test of time?
We visited Morocco to find out how after
more than 1,000 years, this craft is still standing.
These arches surrounding Fez lead to
its market's narrow paths.
To find the tannery, all you have to do is follow your nose.
The scent of dead animal skin and feces fills the air
at the souk, a leather bazaar that houses
the three biggest leather tanneries in the city.
Narrator: For most, the smell is unbearable.
Local guides give tourists sprigs of mint
to place under their nose when they visit.
But for Adil, it's part of the tradition.
He works with goat and sheepskins that he buys
from a nearby market and then starts the cleaning process.
Narrator: Adil uses water to loosen any dirt or mud.
It also softens the skin,
making it easier to work with later.
The next day, he transfers the hides
to these large stone vats that hold natural acids and dyes.
He leaves the skin for two to three days
in a solution made of chemicals, salt water, and cow urine.
It'll break down excess fat, leftover flesh, and hair.
But it's just as harsh on human skin
and can cause serious injury.
Narrator: Adil's father, who also worked in the tanneries,
tried to stop him from following the same path.
Narrator: Adil stands in the mixture for hours a day, plucking
and scraping off any loose hair with his bare hands.
He wears waterproof pants,
but there's still a risk of severe chemical burns.
Then he washes the hide three times
until all the hair falls off.
Narrator: This tanning technique dates back to the 11th century.
The natural chemicals in this solution
alter the protein structure of the hide.
Narrator: Adil then moves the hides to the basin
filled with a mixture of pigeon droppings and water.
They sit for two days to thin and stretch.
Then he places them back into the phono machine
for a final wash and drapes them along small balconies
to dry for 48 hours.
Traditional tanneries like this
were common in Fez and Marrakech.
In the 16th century, workers used leather
to make products like books, shoes, and clothes.
It quickly became one of the country's leading exports.
But tanneries during this time used extremely
hazardous chemicals, and many workers suffered
from severe health conditions like cancer.
So in the 19th century, the leather-making industry
shifted away from traditional, dangerous practices
to more modern machines.
The few traditional tanneries that survived
struggled to compete.
Narrator: Today, Adil makes less than half the money
he made when he started out.
Despite that, he says he can't see himself
doing anything else.
In this small room, he scrapes the hides
to remove any leftover hairs or fibers.
This step has caused him severe pain
and has taken a toll on his body over the years.
Narrator: He continues until the hide is completely smooth.
When it's ready, he brings the finished leather
to craftsmen like Mohammad Lahlou.
Narrator: Mohammad has worked as a leather craftsman
for over 20 years.
He separates the leather based on the type of skin
and checks the quality to determine
what product he can make from it.
Narrator: Mohammad designs bags, shoes, and belts.
These handcrafted pieces can take up to a week to make.
Narrator: More than half the population in Fez
works in crafts and merchandise,
making souvenirs and products and selling them to tourists.
But the pandemic brought tourism to a halt for two years,
and the economy hasn't fully recovered since.
Narrator: Adil knows how difficult this craft is,
but he doesn't believe traditional tanning should end.
Instead, he hopes conditions will improve
for the next generation of tanners.