welcome to whale.com today we're going to demonstrate the 3g plate vertical up all the
way out 6010 root 7018 fill and cap it's it's not the virtual competition demonstration
but it's close so you know you viewers that are going to watch it and be been requesting
it this is what we're going to do we're going to take the 3 8 inch plate by 4 inch by 7
inch put 30 degree bevels on both pieces it's going to have a 332 gap with a 1 8 root face
i already put the bevel on these plates with that gulco kbm 18 bevel machine that i love
working with and i'll prep the plates with a little tiger paw knock the middle scale
off and then i'm going to tack it up with 60 10 1 8 rod and you know this is like a
fundamental test straight out of d11 code book you guys know anything about the code
book it's it's a very simple uh structural test that you know they always give and it's
usually three positions two g three g and the four g or we're just going to do the 3g
today like i said a few structural guys out there you guys know what i'm talking about
this is just the fundamental test just to get you through this destructive test if they're
going to bend anything on x-ray you know so you get a job so it's real simple but anyway
i'm going to demonstrate the uphill 60 10 with you guys and then for phil and kaplan
we're going we're going to go with the bowler fox ev50 e70 18-1 h4r one eight diameter and
aws spec a 5.1 so i got this coupon tacked up i'm putting the positioner
you know these positioners are nice because they'll hold it exactly where you want it
where you need it straight up down 90 degrees like it is on the contest but we're not comparing
it to the contest but anyway i'm gonna go ahead and put the root in this thing and um
i'll weld it out so we got the ark initiated and i use the jack technique you know up and
down with it and keep the puddle nice and hot and you see that as the arc goes out i
kind of drag it a little bit too far to kind of cool it off and initiate it again so it
goes in pretty good like that because i like to burn a little bit warm
tying back into it you get it nice and hot do a little circle so it ties in it makes
that 100 penetration i go back to the same routine technique is you know jacking it up
and down keep that puddle nice and hot and wet
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so here we come to the top and it's getting hot it's getting real hot so i'm going to
get out of it and there it is so you can see that i put the root in it i'm going to take
the wire wheel and wire will it real good and what we'll do next is we'll go the 7018
all 70 series 80 series 90 series rods before you weld with them should be kept in the oven
anywhere from 225 to 300 degrees no more than 300 no less than 225.
so what i'm gonna do i'm gonna talk about the settings on this poweri mig 315 every
last machine so as you see it's got the mega stick set up and of course we're welding stick
so it's set on stick don't need any volts so that's on zero so we go to the mixtik arc
force i got the mig stick arc force set on two of course 77 amps for the 1 8 60 10 rod
that it run the root and that plate with seemed the heat seemed pretty good it was a little
warm but i kind of like to run a little warm it's got two other features on there spot
and stitch that's all for mig welding but we're not mig welding today with it so what
i'm going to do next is we're going to we're going to step up and go to 70 18 1 8.
so i figured i'd run it about 110 115
so i'll go ahead and turn it up
i'll go 114 and we'll try that and i'm sure that's nice and warm so it ought to run nice
and smooth so here we are we initiate the arc on the 7018.
and you know a lot of people use this technique too you know you go to it from side to side
and you can either you know one thousand one one thousand two and hold it aside and you
know you're pushing that pushing that metal up into that groove
keeping that puddle nice and hot and manipulating it that's why we have a side view up to see
the the uh the angle of the rod so everybody out in the audience can see exactly how this
thing's run
and that's another reason why i like this bowler product it doesn't fingernail and it
runs those rods run really smooth so i really like these rods and you can see it's just
it's going in real real nice and it's running a little hot but i like it warm
so we're coming up fixing to change rods out here eyeball and we're going to initiate i
like to strike at least three to four inches if you can above the tie-in so that rod's
nice and hot and we go back to the same technique you know one thousand one one thousand two
on the sides just hold it there that long enough
so we'll be coming up to the top you can see on the back of that plate how warm it is that
thing is hot especially with that it's only 3 8 thick plate and that 1 8 1 8 rod burning
about 114 115 is hot you'll see when it gets to the top it just it wants to fall out and
it does but that's the part like i've been saying before the one inch in the top and
one that's on the bottom they don't test any of that they might do a visual on it but you
know that's what happens so you know if that happens and they say something about it you
know you might want to put a runoff plate on it poof so as you can see you know the
filler pass went in really well it tied in real good and i didn't want to overfill it
because you know you want a nice profile on like a 1 8 no no more than a 1 8 build up
on the cap so you see how nice it's tied in and you can see also too when it's really
starting getting hot at the top but if you guys remember if any kind of non-destructive
or destructive testing they don't use if this was a coupon they don't use an inch from the
top or an inch from the bottom you know so they just cut your straps out of here so it
looks really good we're gonna proceed to put the cap on it and uh we're gonna weld it out
so just like i said before i like to strike my rod three to four or five inches you know
where i'm gonna when i'm gonna tie in or start from and it'll come down and you see it's
running really smooth the puddle's flowing really nice
side to side half half the crown on the on the filler there that you want to feel so
when you come back your second pass it ties in real nice and looks very uniform
just making really nice tie-ins flowing really good the puddle looks nice and wide another
thing is this these a lot of people like to put this one big bead up it i like to run
stringers because it looks a lot more uniform to me and you're not supposed to go over one
and a half times the rod size on the weave anyway so
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so we initiated the arc on the on the final pass of the cap and got going back to the
same technique you know it's really simple one thousand one one thousand two holding
it hold it to the base male and hold it to the middle of the crown of the weld make a
nice nice tie in
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so so it's getting a little warm that's why i'm trying to manipulate the puddle and push
more wire in there to uh compensate for the heat so it doesn't get any undercut on the
crown of the crown of the cap or into the basement
so as you can see you know the cap on this plate come out pretty good no undercut on
either side of the toe of the plate the toe of the weld and the crown tie ends look really
nice and slick as you can see everything looks pretty good and it's right out of eighth inch
above the basement exactly about what you want so i think it come out pretty good and
just remember too is this is your startup area and this is your runoff area so one inch
from the bottom like i said before one inch from the top will never be used as any kind
of destructive or non-instructive testing so like i said before this is your startup
area and this is your finishing area you run off you can put plates on the bottom or if
you put a backing strip on you'd have a runoff you know a startup and a runoff plate but
there's an open root so we don't have a backing strip on this but then we'll go around to
the back and look at the root so this is not exactly what i'm looking for it's not a hundred
percent penetration and it looks like the the gap opening was too small which i'm gonna
have to open up on the next one that i'm gonna do because i'm not satisfied with this one
at all so i'm gonna i'm gonna scrap this one and we're gonna get another one tacked up
and we're gonna go for it so i set this coupon up with a 1 8 gap i feel more comfortable
with a 1 8th gap on plate usually on pipe i go with a 332 gap with a 332 land or nickel
land and the reason why i do that is because the rods always change in angle when you're
welded pipe when you're welding plate the angle stays the same so that's why i feel
more comfortable with 1 8 gap than i did a 332
so as you see i put the second pass on the cap on the plate and here's what i really
like about these bola rods the consistency of flux coating helps from fingernail and
you don't have to worry about that then of course engineering to reduce the porosity
with the formulas they use really great and another tip i want to give you it doesn't
get any better than this
the flux falls right off this root really come out really good it's got 100 penetration
and it might have a little 16th push through which is perfect and i was i'm really satisfied
with this one i like this one the last one i didn't have my root opening right i opened
i opened the root opening up on this one to 1 8 so i really got good penetration and consistency
kept the amps about 88 amps which i've usually run out anyway but i didn't mess with the
amps or anything i just messed with the root opening that's what really gave it a lot nice
profile good penetration and it really looks good so if you like what you see push the
like button and subscribe to well.com see you on the next one [Music] you