G'day welcome to Downunder Woodworks and to part two of the console table build.
In the first video i finished building the main table structure and if you haven't seen
that video i highly recommend that you do. In this video we continue with making the drawers.
The table has three drawers, one wider centre drawer and two narrower outside drawers. I made
the drawers inset style so they were flush with the front of the table and without false fronts
so the first thing to do was to cut out the drawer fronts
and size them up until i had the fit i wanted.
Once i was happy with the fronts i cut the sides of the drawers which were all the same length
and because there were six of them i set up a stop block on my crosscut sled.
The sides were joined to the front using dowels and again i used the Dowelmax jig to do it.
I mark an x on the face or edge that will have the holes drilled
and a tick mark on my reference faces and edges
and then it's just a matter of matching the tick marks on the jig with the marks on the pieces
setting the depth stop on the drill bit and remembering which holes you used.
The guide pin is used to make sure you get the
correct spacing on each piece when you have to move the jig along the board.
Perfect fit every time.
Before assembling the drawers i had to cut a groove in all the pieces for the drawer bottom.
The backs of the drawers don't get a groove because the drawer bottom
will be fixed to the back with screws from underneath as you'll see later.
I marked each board with a pencil line so i didn't cut the groove in the wrong place.
The fronts get a stopped groove so it wouldn't be seen when opened and i did
that just by marking start and stop lines on the router table.
The router bit i used was a standard straight cut bit that can't be used to plunge into the board
so i had to move it back and forth a little to get it to full depth.
With the drawer pieces in a dry fit i used two sticks with points
on the end to find the distance between the sides so i could cut the bottom to size.
Then it was time for glue up.
Because i wasn't gluing up the drawer backs yet i
used clamping squares to make sure that the drawers glued up square.
I had to cut a relief in the backboard to allow for a top runner which i'll install
next. I chose to make the sides of the drawers lower than the front
which means the table has to have top runners as well. I could have made the
sides higher and not needed extra runners but i think they look better this way.
With the drawer held in the closed position i used a steel rule to give me a one mm gap
and then installed the runner with some glue and later with screws.
This top runner stops the drawer falling down as you pull it out and also acts as a stopper
so the drawer can't be pushed in past the front of the table keeping everything flush.
Next job was to add moulding to the drawer fronts
to make it look as though the table has 10 very small identical drawers.
I set up this simple miter cutting jig for the half round moulding with the two different stop
blocks so i could cut alternating mitres and have no wastage between each piece.
All the vertical pieces were the same length.
The moulding was only glued in place so i wouldn't have any nail or pin holes to fill
and i used the super glue trick to hold them in place while the regular glue dried.
Also Titebond original is a fast set glue which came in very handy for this.
The horizontal pieces were cut one at a time and finessed to length to get a perfect fit.
By this stage i worked out that i didn't need to use the CA glue
because the fast setup of the type one original was working well.
Last thing to do was secure the bottoms to the back of the drawer and i used masking tape to
mark the screw holes because i didn't want to draw on the base as that was a finished surface.
Finally it was time to paint.
Now the story behind this table is that it was a commission build,
the client dictated the design, dimensions and the colour.
In the first video i mentioned how i incorporated three structural elements into this table
to stiffen it up and stop it from sagging. The second structural element i used was
that full length backer board which is nine mm MDF glued and nailed in place
and the third is that full length 42 by 19 rail
running the full length of the table under the drawers.
I made up these little tabs out of some scrap hardwood that i had and the reason for them
is to stop the drawers from being pulled all the way out of the table
so they're just screwed to the inside framework of the table and as you can see
here they stop the draw from coming all the way out but they are easily rotated
if for some reason you do need to take the drawer out.
In the end the sale of the table didn't go through and i was left with a console table i hadn't
planned on so i put it in the house while deciding what to do with it and over time it really grew
on us and now i think it looks pretty cool and it's become part of the furniture as they say.
Well that's it for another build. I hope you enjoyed watching along. For me with this project
i did really enjoy this one there were a lot of pieces and a lot of steps that all had to come
together and in the end i think they came together beautifully and i've ended up with a pretty cool
piece of furniture. If you're watching this video as a non-subscriber then please hit that subscribe
button and the notification bell to help me out with that. If you want to know what i'm up to in
between videos you can follow me on instagram but until the next one you guys all have a great day.