today we're going to be using a CXT 20s for small gland for our sy flex and that comprises
of four brass rings two brass lock nuts two gland bodies with gland nuts two shrouds and
two earthing rings okay we're gonna make off sy flex first of all going to put you out on
the same way as we did with our steel wire armoured one making sure that the shroud is
nice and tight and doesn't slip down the sy cable when it's in position got a nice tight
fix okay next I'm gonna put on is and it's usually forgotten next is going to go on the
gland body with the gland nut already attached and my first brass washer goes on next okay now
we're ready to facilitate the termination of the cable depending on what it's going into
this case we're going into a consumer unit we're going to need you to be at least as long again
so at least as long again from the consumer unit for us to college next once we've got our length
take our knife can be reasonably firm with a knife because obviously the braided underneath
shouldn't be cut through with a knife but still a little bit more care than when we were taking
our knife to out steal wire armour cable quite as firm as that so score round with our knife
should twist as we go so I can ringing it our gently pull away as we go away often outside
it's going a bit quicker now okay so we're in that position there I'm gonna do next he's removed some
of the braiding we don't need it all we need about about four centimeters or 40 millimeters
at the bottom maximum to do that I think it's easier just to bulge it down bring it down to
a bulge position at about 3 to 4 centimeters take our side cutters and we're just going to trim off
the excess that we don't need all the way around okay take off the excess we are left with about 3
to 4 centimetres of braided at the end and we're just going to open that out using a scriber okay
or bridal or our terminals screwdriver within our toolboxes so we'll split it 50/50 one side and
then 50% on the other side so a 50/50 split take mine in this case bridal down separating out the
strands on one side so I separated that side I ran to the other side 50% the way around the cable and
separate the other side so approximately half the braiding either side then I've got a nice
50/50 split straightening out some people set this stage is you can twist them depends on the glands
you've got a and the size of the slots within it we can probably get away with actually twisting
in this stage but we're not going to just gonna get them flat to start with okay once they're
flat turn them 90 degrees and flatten them out again 90 degrees flatten it out again bring up
the gland it must make sure that we've got one of the washers in place to sorts lined up with
the 50% 50% splitting the braid and then we go into position and then we're going to twist them
this time twist them up nice and tight it's important that we get them nice and tightly
twisted so I don't give up just keep going from the bottom working my way out and there as tight
as i possibly can both sides now what I'm going to do is we're going to have them so they follow the
way right under the actual locking that's going to come on and go this way around so to make sure
it stays tight we're going to actually wrap it around that way so when it turns and tightens on
actually pulls the braiding around the way that you're actually tightening down so we're going
to push it round just shorter where it meets the back of the one that is already their trim it back
twist it takes some time to set it into position as best you can because it will cause you less
problems later on so we're in that position just short of it there this one's going to
come around this way position it around just short of where it meets the previous one into position
when that position there now offer on the second washer and what will happen is when we tighten
this into our position it will actually clamp the two washers will clamp against the braid in
the main continuity to the braid in itself so I'll give it an earth from this position I've
already prepared the consumer unit itself I know lots of people don't like it but we actually want
the best possible electrical connection to the painting remove of highlight it with a red pen
so you can see the paint has been taken away that facilitates the earthing ring to be a position on
the outside okay at this stage you can remove the outside PVC to expose the conductors about 15 20
mm up so we don't rub against the body exactly the same as we did with the steel wire armour gland
gently score round as we did before this can be done when it's in position but you might
find it easier to do it at this stage similar to the technique we for opening up flex we fold
it over and wait for it to burst we've got it going hopefully the workers play around again
you want me to rock the knife in as we did when we did flexes early on in the course go through
now as you can see three core sy flex has a green and yellow circuit protective conductor
and two black conductors which are numbered one and two and we can identify them as a line and
neutral at the ends making sure the corresponding numbers are at the other terminate at the end and
we will prove that during the testing process and finally the glands got to be fitted to our
enclosure enclosure will be screwed to the wall this one's here for demonstration purposes only
using the same 20 mm lock nut spanner we use for the steel wire armour on the inside I've
been putting my roofing nut and bolt to hold my earthing ring in place during the tightening up
process and the adjustable spanner on the outside to hold the body we would then tighten up the lock
nut from inside holding the body still on the outside locking the nut off ensuring also that
the braided stays within the body as we go so as a case of making sure maybe the back of a
knife that we press it into position and have it held in all the way around so must check the
fact when we're tightening it up it's easier when it's on the wall to see that and just keep poking
it back in either with the back of the knife or a screwdriver to make sure we clamp between the
two watches the braided work in order that it gets the best possible electrical connection
to earth but make sure our gland is tight into our enclosure the two brass washers are crushing
the braided part between them making the best possible electrical connection we can nip up
this part of the gland to prevent the ingress of moisture so we just need to take our adjustable
grips and just nip that up okay so it's nice and firm okay and i cannot turn it with my fingers
is nice and firm doesn't need to be super tight like the end or you will squash the seal within
there and not be a moisture barrier there galnd is now finished the shroud can be pushed into
position and the internal fly lead for connection to the circuit protective conductor can be added