Hi everyone!
In this video I'm going to show you how to replace
a square taper bottom bracket or a cartridge bottom bracket,
with one of the more modern ones.
What I have here is a Hollowtech II from Shimano,
but SRAM GXP threaded BB or DUB would follow the same instructions.
And that's gonna allow me to install this single chainring crankset for a 1x conversion.
These days the 8 and 9 speed drivetrains
usually come with a square taper bottom bracket,
you see here a Shimano Tourney with those riveted chainrings,
or take a look on the non drive side
for that 16 millimeter axle, and you can barely see the square taper starting right there.
The first step obviously is to remove the cranks.
You usually have a dust cap over here,
and that reveals a nut and a washer.
In my case I don't have a dust cap
so I need an 8 millimeter wrench to remove that nut.
Remove the nut from both sides,
and next you're going to need what's called a crank puller.
Tool has two parts, obviously the bigger one will thread on to the crank arm.
And just tighten it until it bottoms out.
And now we're going to need 2 adjustable wrenches or 2 open wrenches.
One to hold on to the thicker part,
second one to tighten the center axle.
As you can imagine, as you tighten this,
you're pushing against the square taper,
and you're pulling out your crank arm.
Now this will be quite tight,
so be prepared to put on some muscle here..
but it will come out
here it goes.
Obviously, repeat the procedure on the non-drive side
to remove that crank arm as well.
To remove the bottom bracket, you're going to need
a cartridge bearing bottom bracket tool that looks just like this.
you're gonna slide it into the splines,
it might help to keep a bit of pressure on it.
And then use your adjustable wrench.
Always start on the non-drive side
and this is a normal threaded cup,
so it's gonna be lefty loosey righty tighty.
On the drive side, remember this reverse threaded,
so what you're gonna do is this,
and this is probably an easy-to-remember rule:
always lift the wrench towards the back wheel, on both sides,
so turn to the right to undo it.
And as soon as you do that,
the whole bottom bracket cartridge it's gonna come out.
Knowing the cranks that you want to install,
also measure the BB shell width.
This is 73 mm in my case,
because you're gonna need that dimension
when making a decision on the BB.
There's bikes out there with 68 mm bottom bracket shells as well.
For my cranks I need a Hollowtech II bottom bracket.
This works both with 68 and 73 mm bottom bracket shells.
And you adjust for that by using these spacers that are included with the bottom bracket.
Also, the spacers adjust the chain line on your drivetrain
so make sure you read the instructions.
Threads cleaned up, with a little bit of grease applied,
I'm gonna install this drive side cup, the one with the tube,
with a 2.5 millimeter spacer installed,
and if you look here on the cup,
you're gonna see that tightening is gonna be an arrow going that way.
This is the one that is reverse threaded.
And then you're gonna need a bottom bracket tool like this one,
or the socket type if you have one.
This is going to be better to tighten it up to 40 Nm as Shimano specifies.
Repeat the same on the non-drive side.
Just remember that this is normal threaded,
no spacers there either for 73 mm shell.
And torque it again to about 40 Nm.
And that's all there is to it guys!
I've installed an English threaded bottom bracket or BSA,
in this case Hollowtech II from Shimano,
but you can do the same for Race Face threaded BB,
for SRAM DUB or GXP threaded BB,
or any other standard that requires a threaded bottom bracket shell.
If you have any questions let me know in the comments below.
I hope you liked this video
and if you did don't forget to Like, subscribe,
and keep an eye on social media.
And until next time,
I will see you folks on the trails.
Cheers guys,
Cheers!