All right. We're here today going to show an install video on injector install on a
98-02 Dodge. We got our expert mechanic Steven will be here with us. First steps are going
to be to take the intake horn off, you got 10 millimeter bolts on top of that. You got
actually four that hold the intake horn on and then you've got one that holds the dipstick
tube. Just take those out. Then you've got an 11 millimeter that holds the bellow there
to the intake horn. Just pull that off, set it to the side. Next thing we do is right
here in front we've got three 15 millimeter bolts that takes the throttle position and
sensor out. Then you've got your 15 millimeter bolts that take hold the valve cover on. Those
are your three first steps in starting this process.
All right on this install, we've already removed the intake horn. We've already removed the
throttle position sensor, removed the first four bolts on the valve cover. The fifth bolt
is loose, but we leave it in before we take the valve cover off. Steven's going to go
ahead and show you back in the back right here you'll see the rubber line. We bend that
down and slide the intake up, over top of that is the easiest way to do it leaving that
fifth bolt in. It's not the easiest thing in the world. It's a little hustle getting
that thing off but there you have it.
So now we're down to our valves and our injectors and we'll continue steps the right. Next step
in the process is getting the injector lines off, you got three hold down bolts that are
10 millimeters. The hold down bolts are there, there and back in the back.
Here.
You actually, four hold down bolts, three quarter inch wrench takes the injector lines
loose from the head and then three quarter inch stubby takes the lines loose from the
back of the injection pumps, it's the easiest way to do it. Take all those loose. We take
the one, two and four off, leave it in a group, do not separate it, makes it a whole lot easier
going back if you take them all off together. Then the second three will come off, three,
five and six will come off in a group and leave those together also.
These curved lines, it's a whole lot easier if you just leave them together. After you
get your fuel lines off, the next step in the process is taking the injector hold down
off, the injector hold down is right here. There's actually two eight millimeter bolts.
The one in the back closest to the rocker arms. We just loosen that up. The hole down's
actually slotted, so if you loosen that one up and take the back bolt completely out,
the rocker arm will actually just slide out. I'll show you a picture of the rocker arm,
soon as Steven gets it out there.
So yeah, it does have a slot in it where his thumb is. Move your thumb there, Steven, slot
there and that's where the one eight millimeter slides in. You can take them out that way
if you don't want to adjust your valves. Normally speaking, when we do inject our installs,
we always take the exhaust rocker arm off that lets you get down in there real easy.
The exhaust rocker arms always this second rocker arm right here on each one going back,
makes it real easy getting to the hold down bolts at that point.
So we'll take those off. We're actually going to take all the rocker arms loose, so we can
readjust the valves and do a compression check on this motor also. Two other quick notes
that I didn't mention that we always do. We always stuff rags down in the intake. Always
put a rag over top of the inner cooler hose and if you take the rocker arms off like we're
going to, always keep those in order and put them back on the exact same cylinder that
you took it off in everything, especially on a motor that's already been broken, everything's
made it up. So we want to put those back on exactly like we take them off. Here we got
Steven taking the exhaust rocker arms off. That's actually a 10 millimeter nut that's
on the top of it, real simple to do. All you do is just take the nut loose and then the
rocker arm will simply pull straight up off of it.
All right. We've gotten all the exhaust rocker arms taken off. We've also got the injector
hold down taken off on each injector. We're getting ready to pull the injector out. Two
things you've got to do. You've got to pull this connector tube, that slides right there
out. How we do that is if you don't have the special tool, or can't get your hands on it.
You can take a screwdriver. You just got to be real careful not to screw the threads up.
We use a snap-on part CJ144 it's a little tool like that, Steven will show you how it
screws on there, and then you just simply take a little lady finger or something and
the tubes will pop right out.
And we go ahead and take the tubes all the way out, clean them off, make sure the ends
look good before we go back. When you go to take the injector out, you can actually, what
we use is a valve cover bolt, we'll actually screw right into the top of that injector.
And then we take a pair of bent needle nose pliers and just pop the injector straight
up out. And Steven's going to show you how to do that.
See the valve cover bolts sticking up out there. Just pry up on it and the injector
will pop right out and pull the injector up there Steven.
Make sure that it has.
Yeah, well I'll always make sure it has the copper O ring on the bottom of them. You do
not want to put two Copper O Rings on there. When we show you the new injectors, they always
come with a new copper O ring also. All right, I thought I'd give you a quick shot of the
injectors that we're getting ready to clip back in and these are actual just stocked
Bosch injectors. You see the nice pretty Bosch yellow box. You want to make sure it's got
the brand new copper O ring. On the bottom of it you can see brand new nozzles. This
is actually a complete brand new injector and not rebuilt or anything starting solid
injectors. All right Steven's got the injector and the tube. When you go back with these,
you want to put a little bit of lubricant around your O ring. Something like Vaseline
is what we usually use. We also want to put the injector back down in the hole with the
indented portion right there.
That's the portion where your fuel tube slides into. You will put that down pointing over
towards where the fuel tube slides in. Before you tighten anything down, you have to make
sure that fuel tube sitting tight in that port before you start cramping those down.
We'll do that and then I'll give you the torque specs on what to torque all of these steps.
He's put the injector back down in the hole. He's pushing the tube in right now. Usually
you'll feel it snap back into place where the O rings on there, and it should be just
about flush with the outside of the head right there.
Once you've got that in place, then we're going to put the rocker arm back on and torque
everything. All right, Steven's put the injector down in the hole, making sure that the tube
binds up. How we normally install the injectors is we first torque them down to about 44 inch
pounds just to let the injector seat into the hole properly. We then back that back
off, make sure the feed tube slides in. You want to feel a snap or a pop when the feed
tube actually slides into the groove and seats itself and it should be about flush with the
outside, maybe indented just a little bit with the outside of the head there. That'll
let you know that that is seated properly. Then we're going to put the rocker arms back
on, the hold down bolts on the injectors, torque at 89 inch pounds.
The hold down or rocker bolt here actually torques at 27 foot pounds. Now that we've
got our injectors in, we're pretty much done. We've got our injectors in, our valves last,
everything accomplished here. All you have to do now is just do actually the opposite
of the install, the removal procedures. You can go ahead and put your valve cover on,
put your injector lines back on, hook everything up, and then we're going to get to the restart
or bleeding procedures to get the fuel back up into the injectors. All we do is crank
the number one, number three and number four cylinders, crank it over until we get fuel
coming out of any of those.
Once we see fuel coming out of those, we close that cylinder off. We crank it again until
we get fuel coming out of each of the other two cylinders that's left, closing those off.
As soon as we see fuel, usually by the time you get fuel coming barely starting to come
out of the third cylinder, it'll be ready to start. So go ahead and close it off when
you see any fuel at all. And she'll fire right up for you.