Baffled by elastic? Let me teach you how to identify different types of elastic
and where to use them. Hi, I'm Haley! I'm the pattern designer here at Seamwork
you can find us at Seamwork.com. We are a community of sewists that are all about
designing and sewing our own wardrobes, so make sure you check us out at Seamwork.com.
We've all been there staring blankly in the notions aisle trying to
figure out what kind of elastic to buy. Sure, your pattern calls for half-inch
elastic, but do you choose braided, knit woven? I mean, they even make sparkly
elastic! The choices can be really overwhelming and daunting. Fortunately,
I've got you covered with the scoop on how different types of elastics behave,
how to identify them, and where to use them all. I'll be covering braided
elastic, knit and woven, plus a whole bunch of specialty elastics, like clear
swim, and lingerie. So let's get started!
This category of elastic is reserved for your workhorse elastic. Typically these
are non-decorative and they come in black or white but you can find them in
a whole variety of widths.
Braided elastic can be identified by the parallel ribs that run the length of the
elastic. You'll find that it becomes more narrow as you stretch it and it also
loses resiliency when you sew it. For this reason, it's gonna be more ideal for
casings. Basically, you want to avoid using braided elastic where you're
sewing the elastic directly into the garment. The neckline of the Loretta top
is a really great example of where you're going to want to use braided
elastic. It has a neckline casing and because of this, the elastic is only sewn
where it's joined to itself. So, you're not going to compromise the resiliency
of your elastic in any way. Here's a tip: braided elastic is what's most often
called for in most sewing patterns, but go ahead and skim the instructions. You
might find that woven or knitted elastic is a better alternative for your project.
Knit elastic has a smooth appearance and does not become more narrow as you
stretch it. It also doesn't lose resiliency when you sew it or you pierce
it with a needle. So for this reason, you can use it for both casings and in cases
where you're sewing the elastic directly into the garment. Because it's more
lightweight though, you're going to want to stick too light to medium-weight
fabrics when you're using that elastic. The Dana set is a great example of where
you're going to want to use knit elastic. In the Dana panties, the elastic is sewn
directly to the waistline and then turned over towards the wrong side and
stitched again. Because of this we want something that's going to hold up to all
of that stitching, which is why knit elastic fits the bill. Here's a tip: knit
elastic is a really great multi-use elastic. It's actually what I keep in my
stash, in a couple different widths just in case.
Woven elastic, often referred to as no-roll elastic, is your sturdiest garment
elastic. You can identify it by the horizontal and vertical ribs, but
basically, these just look like little rectangles side by side. You'll find that
this elastic does not become more narrow as you stretch it and also does not lose
resiliency when pierced with a needle. Because it's really heavyweight, this
elastic is going to be more ideal for projects like outerwear or pants, where
you're using bottomweight fabric. I like using woven elastic on garments with
fitted elastic waistbands for two reasons:
The heavyweight elastic really holds up to the bottomweight fabric, and also,
because of its no-roll tendencies, it doesn't roll down when you're wearing it.
Here's a tip: use a strong needle when you're sewing woven elastic. It can be
really dense, especially when you're sewing through more than one layer.
Specialty elastic are fancy elastics that are reserved for specific
applications. Most of these are going to be derivative of either knit or braided elastic.
Clear elastic is a lightweight and transparent variety of elastic. It
becomes more narrow as you stretch it but it does not lose resiliency when you
sew it. Clear elastic is most often used to gather knits or to stabilize knits. In
the Moneta dress, clear elastic helps us to create the gathers at the waistline,
but you can also use clear elastic to stabilize areas that are prone to
stretching ,such as necklines or shoulder seams. Here's a tip: clear elastic can
become especially brittle with age. Make sure that you're testing it before you
sew it. Swim elastic is a variety of braided elastic that is made specifically for
swimwear. Swim elastic is made from rubber and cotton so it can withstand
salt and chlorinated water. You're gonna want to use swimwear elastic for all of
your swimwear needs. We used it in the Reno and Dakota set in a bunch of
different widths so your swimsuit stays nice and secure while you swim.
Lingerie elastic is a specialty variety of elastic reserved for lingerie. Most
lingerie elastics are derivative of knit elastics so you
can expect to see the same properties in lingerie elastic. Lingerie elastic comes
in a variety of colors, finishes, and widths. Lots of lingerie elastic also has
a plush back making it more comfortable to wear against your skin. You can use
lingerie elastic to sew a whole bunch of lingerie—from panties to bras to bralettes.
We used it in the Florence bralette to create the straps that hold
it up and also along the neckline and bottom edges. The Florence bralette uses
plush-back elastic making them comfortable to wear. Since lingerie
elastic is often worn directly against your skin, make sure that you're checking
for the comfortability of the elastic before you buy it. I like to hold it to
the inside of my arm just to check to make sure it's comfortable. Fold-over
elastic often referred to as FOE is a decorative elastic that comes in a whole
variety of colors. You can identify it by the ridge that runs down the center of
it. This helps the elastic easily fold in
half. Because fold over elastic folds in half, it makes it perfect for encasing
raw edges on knit garments and lingerie. We use fold over elastic on the Ariane
bodysuit to create an elasticized finish but also to finish the edges of the
neckline, underarms, and leg openings. Here's a tip not all fold over elastic
is created equally. Some can be a lot less stretchy than others, so make sure
that you're testing it to see what you're working with.
I always like to go to a local store to buy my elastic rather than purchasing it
online because I want to be able to test the elasticity of it and touch it before
I can purchase it. You'll find that some elastics are going to be stretchier than
others and you really want to know what you're working with before you start
sewing it. That leads me to my second tip: I prefer buying elastic by the yard off
of the roll rather than in a package. I want to be able to touch my elastic and
stretch it to make sure that it's of the quality that I need. Elastic is really
inexpensive. Spend the extra ten cents on a little bit higher quality elastic, and
last but not least, watch out for old elastic. We've all been there before
where you pull out your swimsuit that you haven't seen in a year and you go to
put it on and the elastic is totally busted. All elastic has an expiration
date, so just make sure that it's not brittle before you start sewing it.
If you enjoyed this video make sure to check out Seamwork where we share
informative articles every month that help you improve your sewing. Subscribe
to our channel for more inspiring ideas and follow us on Instagram to stay up to
date on all things Seamwork. Thanks for joining me and happy sewing!