I've learned not to panic in this hobby because panic can lead to rash decisions
and rash decisions can lead to disaster.
The 40 gallon breeder behind me has had dyno flagellins for several months
now, but I think we're finally nearing the end game.
How did we get to the point where dynos are in the frag tank? Well,
we got to go way back in time to when I had my 120 gallon due to my own
laziness, the 120 gallon had a terrible green hair, algae problem.
I couldn't get rid of it. So in steps,
bright Wells razor work like a charm green hair,
algae disappeared after a couple of weeks and manual removal,
but then I had a cyan outbreak. I increased the flow, tried manual removal,
but I couldn't get the sand or disappear. So incomes can be clean.
Of course work. Absolutely fantastic. But over time,
the green hair algae just came back. So now we're in round number two razor,
again, worked like a charm, but this time, instead of cyan coming after that,
I had dyno flagellins come back.
Daniel flagellins are so much more difficult to get rid of than Cyanna around
the same time.
I was completely sick of my 120 gallon system for a whole bunch of reasons.
So I broke it down and I got rid of it,
but I had a really good refugium that I didn't want to get rid of.
So what I did is I moved my macroalgae. I moved my miracle mud.
I moved all the pods from the 120 gallon system and created a new
refugium in the 40 gallon frag tank,
knowing full well that that meant the dinos and the sand over coming along with
it. The dyno Fidelis have not been nearly as bad over here because I've been
testing it all the time,
but they've still been persisting and they've been persisting for several
reasons. Number one, I've been over filtering.
I've been changing out my filter sock too much.
And for a while I was running my protein skimmer 24 seven and the skim
mate was super wet. So I was pulling out way too much from the system.
Number two is I wasn't feeding enough since I was over filtering.
I had to up my feeding and I'm always so worried about nuisance algae that I was
feeding super lightly. And then number three,
was there just wasn't enough beneficial bacteria because it's a pseudo
quarantine system.
The only biological filtration I have is in the sump where I have ceramic media
and I wasn't dosing a micro bactor seven or a dr.
Tim's waste away or any other beneficial bacteria.
And as those beneficial bacteria numbers dwindled,
it allowed the dyno to take off. And lastly,
I have these Chinese black box light,
and I just have no idea how much part of they're putting out and what exactly
the wavelengths are.
So it could also be contributing to a highly photosynthetic dyno outbreak.
So in summary, how did we get to this dyno flagella outbreak too much,
not enough feeding too much light and not enough beneficial bacteria.
I have a core belief.
I have a core belief when it comes to dinos and this is anecdotal.
So I'm open to being wrong. But before I tell you my core belief,
I need to give you a little bit of background.
There are over 2000 species of dyno.
Flagellins nano flagellins are single celled. You carry loads,
and they're usually classified as algaes on a really cool side.
National flagellins are responsible for a lot of the bio luminescence.
You see at nighttime in the ocean.
I remember learning to scuba dive in Puget sound and jumping into the sound at
nighttime and having my whole body outlined by bioluminescence.
It's it's really quite magical, but on the other side,
diurnal flagella it's can accumulate rapidly in the ocean and they can
discolor the water, this red color causing what we know as a red tide.
And for those of you that live near the ocean,
you know this during a red tide and shortly after a red tide,
you can't consume shellfish because you could get shellfish poisoning and die.
No joke.
All of this is to just tell you my core belief and my core belief is this.
I believe every single saltwater Korean has dyno flagellins in it.
I don't think you can have a saltwater aquarium without dinos,
but just like when the ocean is in harmony,
when your tank is in harmony dinos, aren't an issue.
So for me,
it's not about keeping dyno flagella it's out of your saltwater aquarium.
It's about keeping your tank and overall harmony. So dinos, aren't an issue.
This is my first time installing a UV sterilizer.
And the reason I haven't done it in the past is because it's expensive to get
all the gear you need to install on a tank that has about 60 gallons of total
water volume. You're looking at about $300,
but a UV sterilizer has really been shown to be effective against free floating
parasites, organisms, algaes, and bacterias.
And of course it's well known to be a great tool fighting against dyno.
Flagellins my plan is to disturb the dental flagellins every single night,
allowing them to pass through the UV sterilizer,
and then I'm going to change out my filter sock every morning,
removing even more of those dinos for now.
I'm only going to run the UV sterilizer at night.
I'm just a little bit paranoid about over filtering things.
I can always increase the amount I'm filtering it.
And I'm just going to use one of these really cheap,
inexpensive wifi outlets to put it on a timer. Oh, and by the way,
everything I'm about to show you there'll be links to it in the description
below. So how does it give you sterilizer even work? Well,
basically how it works is water passes through the UV sterilizer,
which has a UV light source inside UV light
damages, the DNA of parasites, of allergies,
of bacterias and of organisms so that they can't reproduce.
So why the UV light doesn't necessarily kill those things.
It makes it so they can't reproduce. So in the long run,
it will reduce their populations.
But the trick with UV sterilizers is you have to get the right size pump because
if you have too little flow going through the UV sterilizer,
then you're not pushing your entire water column through there enough to
interact with the UV light. But if you get a pump that's too powerful,
you're going to push water through the UV sterilizer so fast that the UV light
is not going to have a chance to damage the DNA.
So if you want to set up your own UV sterilizer,
there's a few things you're going to need to buy.
The first thing you're gonna need to buy is obviously the UV sterilizer,
just read the description so that you get the right size,
do make sure that you don't get a wiper though,
because the wiper is meant for fresh water systems in a saltwater system,
the wiper will corrode. So now that you have your UV sterilizer,
you need to get a pump.
You gotta make sure that the pump is rated for the correct gallon.
So for this UV sterilizer, I needed a pump that was about 250 gallons per hour.
So this CJ sinker silent is 251.
Then you got to make sure you buy the right size,
flexible tubing that can attach both to your pump and the UV sterilizer.
And the last thing you need is just the right size plastic hose clamp, please,
please, please be safe with your UV light.
UV light is dangerous to human beings. Never,
ever turn on your UV sterilizer with the bold exposed,
because it can damage your skin and your eyes and your Oregon.
So the only time you should ever turn your UV sterilizer on is when it's
properly sealed within the PVC housing compartment. Alright,
let's go get ours installed.
[Inaudible] [inaudible]
[inaudible] [inaudible]
[inaudible].
Sterilizers installed. So here's my plan of action. Number one,
I need to test my nitrates and my phosphates daily to make sure they
stay above zero. Next. I'm going to increase my nutrient levels,
primarily my nitrates and my phosphates.
I'm going to do that through feeding a little bit more and filtering a little
bit less since I am going to be running a filter sock during this time,
I'm just not going to run my protein skimmer 24 hours a day.
I'll probably cut it back to 12 hours per day.
If you're doing this at home as well,
be sure that you're not running any GFR during this time,
because you want your phosphate levels to go up.
And if you're doing any sort of carbon dosing or bio pellet reactors,
stop that as well. And if you don't want to feed more,
you can buy products that are [inaudible] or PO four,
and just dose them directly to the tank. Every single day,
I'm going to manually remove as many dinos as I can see.
And every evening I'm going to disturb the dynos so that they get up into the
water columns so they can pass through the UV sterilizer every single morning,
I'm going to remove a filter sock and replace it so I can pull out as many dinos
as I disturbed the night before then every single day,
I'm going to add back in beneficial bacteria. For me,
I'm going to use micro factor seven from Brightwell,
and I'm also going to use dr. Tim's waste away,
but you could also add a vibrant into the mix as well.
I'm not going to add all of these at the same day.
I'm just going to rotate one day, micro factor seven. The next day, dr.
Tim's waste away since the dental flagellins.
We usually see in the saltwater aquarium, hobby are photosynthetic.
I'm also going to reduce the total photo period of my lights and decrease
their intensity. So right now I have these set at 75%.
I'm going to reduce it to below 50%. And instead of running these lights,
eight hours a day, I'm going to run these lights six hours a day.
I'm going to run the UV sterilizer 12 hours every single night.
And if I need to increase that to 24 hours, I will,
I'm going to do all these things every single day,
and this isn't going to disappear in a week.
So for those of you beginners out there, once you get diagnosed,
dinos can take months to disappear. So if you want a quick fix,
you're just out of luck.
You're going to have to be vigilant and spend time getting rid of these.
Dynos if this still doesn't work after a couple months, what else can I do?
I could try a three-day total blackout,
which will hopefully give those diamonds a setback. I've done it before.
Hasn't really worked for me. And I can also do hydrogen peroxide dosing,
which I've also done before,
but that can have negative side effects for your corals.
And since I have corals in here, I really want to stay away from that.
The last step in my dyno flagella battle plan is don't give up until I win.
I have to be persistent against dinos. Don't let the dinos win, have a plan,
do it every single day.
And you will come out victorious to read more about my dyno flagella battle
plan.
Either click here or click the link below that says how to get rid of dental,
jealous links to all the products we talked about are of course,
in the description below. And if you could be so kind,
I consider subscribing to my first fish tank Amarin depo.
We would really appreciate it until next time. Happy to refund everybody.
[Inaudible].