Confined within its walls, as it has been for centuries,
Dubrovnik juts out from the rocky Croatian coastline,
looking inviting
from both the land and the sea.
Its central promenade is the heartbeat of the city,
a thriving people zone.
It's a multi-generational celebration of life,
where everybody's out enjoying
that Mediterranean knack for capping the day
with an easygoing stroll.
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Dubrovnik is very touristy,
and understandably so.
Even with all its crowds, as anywhere,
back-street charm is just a few steps away.
Stepped lanes help you imagine actually living here in an age
before tourism dominated the economy.
The town's imposing architecture
is a reminder of its former glory.
In the 15th century, the salt trade and shipbuilding
made Dubrovnik a maritime power and rival to Venice.
The Sponza Palace is a fine surviving example of Dubrovnik's
Golden Age in the 15th and 16th centuries,
combining both Renaissance and Venetian Gothic styles.
Stepping into its stately courtyard
takes you back to that illustrious age.
Through clever diplomacy, Dubrovnik managed to
maintain its independence until the 1800s.
Through all those centuries, the republic of Dubrovnik
invested mightily to withstand any siege.
They stockpiled grain in huge underground silos
and piped in water from nearby mountains.
Dubrovnik's single best attraction is its mighty wall,
offering an unforgettably scenic mile-long stroll.
While constructed over many centuries,
today's impressive fortifications
date from the 1400s, when they were beefed up
to defend against the Ottoman Turks.
While the walls worked fine against the Turks
five centuries ago, they couldn't protect the city
from modern artillery.
In 1991, after Croatia declared independence from Yugoslavia,
the Yugoslav army shelled the city,
damaging about two-thirds of its buildings.
Brighter, newer tiles mark the houses that were hit
and roofs that had to be replaced.
These roofs were rebuilt using the same materials
as the original ones.
When the war engulfed this beloved city,
the world paid attention.
Today, as the new tiles are fading,
so are the scars of that war.
We're staying at a small guesthouse at the top of town.
Throughout Croatia, "sobe" --
that's rooms for rent in private homes --
are a much better value than big hotels.
-"Nazdravlje." -"Nazdravlje."
Steves: Ours is run by Pero.
Pero, tell me about the war here in Dubrovnik.
-Well, it was a very difficult time.
Dubrovnik was under siege for eight months,
so no water, no electricity,
no food, medicine,
and all the refugees from all the smaller places around,
they came in Dubrovnik, hoping they would not
dare to do such things to Dubrovnik.
-What happened to this house?
-Well, this house was hit
by two grenades from mortars, right?
So this is what I found in my --
on top of my house.
Two of those exploded.
The house was hit.
No tiles, so I could see the sky.
There was no roof on the house.
-And this house...
-This house is more than six centuries old,
and it's in my family more than 200 years.
So, I took some loans in the bank,
and I decided to rent it, like a guesthouse.
-So now the tourists come back and you have a good business.
-Yes. -And a beautiful house.
The quality and the craftsmanship
is just beautiful here.
-Thank you very much.
Steves: With the war in the past,
the tourists are back.
To escape the crowds, hit the beaches
during the heat and crush of midday.
Go for a dip near or far from the Old Town.
Wherever you choose, you'll swim in the shadow
of one of Europe's finest fortified medieval cities.
And evenings in town are peaceful.
A hole in the mighty wall leads to
a great little bar called Buza --
just the place for a romantic sunset.
Clinging like a barnacle to the outside of
the city walls, this tranquil getaway
is the perfect place to appreciate
this city's extraordinary setting.
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