this is a two inch socket weld coupling along with a short piece of pipe it's very much like
some parts that i've done over the years using a turntable i used to take in parts like this to do
in my side hustle welding business these clips are from a run of about 50 parts i did
a while back and the setting should work great on that socket well coupling because the thickness
and diameter are the same if you've got a welding business or even starting a side hustle one of the
first things you want to look at when you start getting round parts is a turn table makes you more
efficient lets you quote jobs better lets you make more money so back in the day like 20 something
years ago when i was doing a side hustle i got a lot of round parts like this just about this size
a little bit shorter in stainless steel hundreds of them so i i made a little turntable using an
old bicycle that worked out for a while but then i bought one on ebay that's this one right here so
i've had this one for quite a while now it's got a three jaw chuck problem is i fried the board i
had to buy a new board for it here for some reason now it's limited to one rpm and that led me to buy
this one it's a little bit lighter duty but it's got a quick a quick release chuck on it there's
different features that you can get on any weld turntable let me show you really quickly a couple
of features on these two then i'm going to show you the cadillac that i have as a demo unit now
and i'm going to weld some parts with today all right this has got a standard three-jaw chuck here
i you notice i've bent the ears on this key here because it was always in the way of this turntable
here sometimes you need the turntable for for fastening parts other times you need the chuck
this one's got a little crank crank thing on here where i can set this at any angle i want
and this one has a through hole which means i can run a purge hose from the other side
that's a good feature to have now like i mentioned this is limited to one rpm now
i can't do any smaller than two inch with this one now so i got this one on ebay also
it's a manual and it's got a quick release a quick release jaw here this is nice for some things but
these things invariably are going to hang up on your tig torch problem with this is i whacked
one with a hammer to get it loose and now i i broke a sheer pin in here this is not supposed to
freewheel like this i've still got to fix that okay here's the one i'll be welding with today
this is the cadillac mk products cobra turn t260 super smooth with a digital readout which is a
big deal for a turntable this one goes all the way down to 0.1 rpm all the way to 6 rpm
so you got to do higher rpms for really small diameter stuff low rpms for larger diameter
figuring out the travel speed i used to do this i used to take a piece of tape with some increments
on there and just kind of eyeball it and that got me in the ballpark but wasn't very repeatable
one of the coolest features is if you know if you duff your electrode or something you need to stop
you don't have to wait for the part to come all the way back around to where you
where you restart it's got this neutral clutch here so all i got to do is kick it out of gear
and then i can spin this around to exactly where i want it without undoing the chuck and then i'll
put it back in gear and then i'm ready to go again big big time saver for positioning it
getting it right where you want it without having to take the part off or just wait for a revolution
another another option is i if i hold this button in it'll fast it'll fast uh jog the part
so it goes to max six so if i want to just do that
without kicking it into neutral get it around to a favorable position again
i do that and when i bump it that's when it kicks it on or even while it's running i can hold it in
and do a fast jog so pretty awesome i gotta say i got the part all chucked up here
i got it locked in place now i need a place to prop doesn't do me any good to have a turntable
positioner thing here if i don't have if i can't be steady here sometimes you can look outside of
your industry and find something that works for what you're doing and this particular prop that
i'm going to use is for photography let me show you it's a manfrotto like articulating
arm along with a clamp for the bench i'm just going to clamp it right next to the positioner
clamp that on there nice and tight now i'm just going to
figure out how i want to hold the torch but i can just loosen up this
this one knob here a little swivel head here made for a camera but then this arm swings this way
and then the bottom one swings so i can just figure out how this thing is going to work for me
in the most comfortable area okay that seems pretty good and i can just lock it into place
with the twist of one big knob let's weld 210 amps two pulses a second 60 peak time 60 background
i'm using a clear jazzy 10 cup mainly just so we can all see everything a whole lot better
i don't use clear cups for everything but when i'm filming it really helps you see the puddle me see
the puddle it lights things up like crazy alright the rest of this thing looks pretty much the same
i just decided to use those same pulse settings because they work so well in that previous
video on a similar job where everything was the same diameter same thickness and everything
if i want a wire brush or something like that i can go max by joggling by hitting that
one of the coolest things is this clutch like i said before
pick it at it kick it into neutral and spin it around big time saver
the whole reason you're getting a turntable is to save time increase productivity
so having the clutch is huge i can also weld it pretty much any angle so i pop the spring
loaded pin in here and i can go in increments 15 degree increments all the way horizontal like this
if that's more comfortable for me got an argon port right here that argon comes up through the
chuck through a little diffuser screen we'll get into that a little bit later on some stainless
all right let's do a little technique called walk in the cup you don't need a prop for this and i've
done some parts like this before where i didn't prop i just walked the cup using a turntable like
this it worked out pretty well if you don't have a prop and you you're pretty good at walking the cup
it's it's a pretty good option now for this i think i'm using a number seven cup and that really
does matter a lot because you need a the right cup size use too big a cup you can't wiggle it very
well if you use too small a cup that's a problem too but a seven cup just whatever size cup will
let you get the right electrode angle and let that cup wiggle along nice and easily like this the
size of the weld or the number of passes is going to be determined by drawing or code requirement or
customer requirement i'm going to put multiple passes on this today for the sake of this video
hey real quick before we finish up this weld i want to let you know i got this ultimate pro kit
with the cups used in this video as well as the most popular furick cups all kitted up to fit
your torch weldmonger.com let's get back to the weld this next pass i'm just going to try to line
up the edge of that weld with that first straight line on the socket weld fitting to give me a guide
and i'm just going to try to wash that in that that very edge to try to keep that bead straight
if you've got your own welding business or a side hustle or whatever this is the kind of work that
you'd really love to get it's just gravy it's great practice it's it's actually very enjoyable
so we'll let that one cool off for a little bit wire brush it off and put a second pass on there
you got to find something to line up with on each pass so you kind of either the edge of the weld or
the toe of the weld or the edge of the fitting or something like that that's that's going to be true
and no matter what kind of welding you're going to be doing so that you can kind of stay uniform and
straight that one looked like it could have used at least 5 or 10 more amps so i'll jack it up a
little bit here for the last pass the third pass don't want to go too high i don't want to leave
undercut don't want to overheat the thing i let it cool a little bit between each pass too by the way
going back to back passes on this thing would just plain get it too hot so i think i'm about
170 amps here for this last pass and as you can see i swapped over to a white ceramic
jazzy 10 cup just because it takes me several of these things to shoot a video
are you wondering if this jazzy 10 clear cup will fit your torch how do you know what style tick
torch you have how do you know if this cup this kit will fit your torch this quick video should
help clear things up let's do it if you're looking to upgrade from the standard torch hardware that
comes with most tig torches you want to be sure that it's going to fit your torch so how do you
know there are so many different brands so many different numbers it can get confusing these are
all 17 18 26 style torched doesn't matter what number doesn't matter what brand if your hardware
looks like this you have a 17 18 26 style torch this furick adapter kit for 17 18 26 style torches
will make the furic cups work with your torch if that's what you have that's another picture of it
there it's got two black insulators that come with it slightly different one of them will fit now
there's nothing really wrong with the standard hardware that comes with them it's a bit long
the long tail is a bit long for real work it's good for practice even when you shorten it up
with a little button on the end it's you can only shorten it up so much but to get better gas
shielding as well as just shorten up the overall length of the torch this adapter kit will do it
you just swap out the white insulator with this different one here install the collet and
call it body gas lens with the o-ring moisten the o-ring and slip on a clear cup like this jazzy 10
which is great for stainless steel nickel alloys titanium chromoly and also it just shortens up the
overall length of the torch and gives you really good gas coverage and lets you use a really long
stick out when you need to 9 and 20 style torches are a little bit smaller they use a smaller collet
body not even an inch long so if your hardware looks like this you've got a 9 or a 20 style tig
torch could be air cooled could be water cooled they both use the same hardware so in order to
use a clear cup we just replace the standard collet body with the gas lens collet body and
put an o-ring on it that's included that's a part number 45 v 44 for the 332nd gas lens collet body
332nd are the most popular it's the most universal size because you can weld anything from razor
blades up to really thick stuff at 200 amps or more with a 332nd electrode just simplifies things
as you can see i slipped the o-ring down on the base of the gas lens
moisten it now i'm ready to slip on a jazzy 10 cup or other clear cup
this is a really good example of the large area of gas shielding you get with the jazzy 10. also it
just kind of lights things up because it is really like a light bulb there's a tungsten lit up up
inside a glass cup that really kind of lights the way for you and for convenience we put together a
couple of combo kits one for each torch type that has a ceramic cup as well as a clear jazzy 10 cup
sometimes the job calls for one or the other and it's really easy to swap back and forth
you slip the clear cup over with the o-ring and to swap over to the ceramic cup just remove it
pop off the o-ring and then the white ceramic cup threads on just like any other ceramic cup
once you have the adapter kit or the 45 v 44 gas lens it opens up a lot of other options to you
for other furick cups this is an eight pro cup and you can really see here how it's lighting
everything up and you can see every detail around you where you're going where you've been
things that might be in your way and once again in order to make the ceramic cups work all you
need to do is remove the o-ring and all of the furick ceramic cups will just thread right on
it gives you lots of options you're going to see better gas coverage you're going
to be able to use a longer stick out less discoloration on stainless steel so once again
if you're if your hardware looks like this you have a 17 18 26 style and you need a furick
adapter kit to make the furick cups work if your hardware looks like this you have a 9/20 style
and all you need is the 45v44 to make it work or maybe the more convenient way is to just
get a combo kit that's got everything you need thanks for watching and thanks for your support