Hey everybody, Ryan Marrinan here for 3M. We've got questions coming in from some
customers saying hey man we've got this beat on these Dodge trucks and caravans
that we just can't seem to replicate. What is it that you have that can do
this? We're going to show you today how to replicate that bead. Let's head inside
and get started.
Alright guys so let's show you how we're going to replicate this bead. We've got our
panel prepped here. We've got our epoxy primer down. We had some bare metal that
was exposed, we want to make sure that we got that covered up. I've also got my
width of my bead taped out so that we've got, you know, our desired pattern and I
know what my final finish is going to look like before I even put the material
on there. So for this application we're going to use our 4274.
Some of you may be familiar with this in some of our other videos. It's actually
our NVH dampening foam. It's a two-part urethane also makes a great seam sealer
as well. As always we're going to equalize a cartridge upright into a paper towel
making sure that we got equal dispersion of part A and B. Once we have our static
mixing nozzle on and we got the ring locked down we're going to dispense a
little bit of material out onto the mixing board. If you don't have a mixing
board you can go ahead and use that same paper towel. We just want to make sure
that we're getting it out onto a safe surface. Now with this product here what
we're looking to do is we're just going to get the material out and we're going to
tool it in just a second. So again you're watching me here and I'm working it
inward towards the seam, again making sure that we've got good adhesion to the
surface and that that seam is going to be sealed. Now if I need to put more
material in here I'm going to go right next to it and I'm going to work it into itself,
right, we don't want to pull it away or anything like that. That way we're not
entering air into the material. So we're going to work more material right into itself.
And now we've got enough on the surface to replicate our bead.
What I've done here is I've got a spreader that I've cut in half .I like to have quite a
few of these just sort of laying around so that I can grab them on the fly and
be able to replicate this bead, and all we're trying to do here is we're just
gonna knock it down. We're not trying to remove any material.
So, we're going to have our spreader at a very low angle. We want to make sure that our seam sealer
has made it tape to tape. That's important here.
The tape is actually the desired finished width that we want for that bead, so if the material is not all
the way to the tape, your edge might not be as straight as what you're looking to get.
Once I've got it straightened out,
what I'm actually gonna do here is take one of our grey Scotch-Brite pads. Cut it
down to a smaller size and then we're just going to take, and we're just going
to dab this over the surface while we're still in the working window.
And if you get to a point where you feel like you've got too much on here you can also
just flip it inside out and keep working while the materials still wet.
Again, we're just adding the texture into that surface.
So for this bead it's kind of got like that taped look where somebody just sort of applied
it off and roll of tape but it's got that awkward texture and how do you replicate it?
This is what we're going for. When we're ready we're going to pull our tape
off, and again we're going to pull backwards against itself. If anything we want to
pull it inward just a little bit so that we're not creating an unnecessary wave
or a shelf off the edge of the seam sealer, making it difficult for the
painter to get the finished material underneath that, so that we got proper
corrosion protection on all sides. So as I pull this back I'm actually going to pull
inward just a little bit and use the tape to create a nice clean-cut edge.
So with this bead here you can see we've created that nice texture. We've used a
very flexible product. It's got a little bit longer working window than some of
our other two-part seam sealers but that's okay. If you've got a really long
application to do, you've got plenty of time to work with the material.
Once you're done go, ahead and walk away and let it cure.
So that's it for this bead here today. If you've got any other questions about seam sealers please
visit 3M Collision Repair Academy. The link for that is in the description
below. Also check out some of the other videos on our page.
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the best practices in today's industry. If you like this video, go ahead and give
it a thumbs up. I appreciate you watching and we'll see you next time.