Uh Fugen, the next one is by Fungen74. Oh my goodness this is a long one.
You guys can read all that yourself but the question I think it's at the very end: would like to go into stropping with compound.
Bit feel or is that but feel unsure
how to do and would like more advice on this topic on how to start
/ when to use what kind
Man Fungen, even your question is like three questions in one
Fungen, so I see here you've got the Atoma 140 the glass 320 the glass 1000
You have two, you have two shapton glass 1000 why?
Why?
okay, then you have the naniwa pro 3000/ 5000
Then the kitayama 8000 okay that with that then you've ordered the Kai 1000/6000 stone
So let me just say this for a second. Backup and redundancy is great in technology. It's great when you have backup hard drives
and you know, servers for information and everything but when it comes to knife sharpening: you don't need redundancy.
This list you go here
You can probably cut this list in half
and still get just as good if not better results using half of what you've got here
I cannot fault you forget in the glass 320 but the total 140 really takes that that role of the 320 as well
so
the glass 1000
I don't know if you're
I don't know why you have the glass 1000
I don't know why you have two of the glass 1000 stones
But you know, if you have two workspaces, that's fine, you know one home here one home there. That's great
I don't see the sense of having two.
And then the Shapton pro
5000
I've used the 5000. I've always said the 5000 feels a bit soft for me
But it's fine. The Naniwa Pro 3000 that you have is my favorite polishing whetstone
And it definitely can be used over the shapton pro 5000 any day
and so you know to me I don't see the sense in that the Kitayama 8000 is a good step up from the
Naniwa Pro 3000 because the Naniwa pro 3000 is a
Semi mirror polish and the Kitayama gives you pretty much a close to mirror if not mirror polish
I don't see the sense in the Kai 1000/6000 because all the other stones that you have are
Splash and go and they are more convenient than a soaking whetstone. And yes it is. We've done it
There's no point to getting those two stones as a matter of fact, the Kai
6000 I don't think it really is any better than any like true 3000/4000 grit
Sharpening stones out there. So yeah this: I wouldn't get the Kai 1000/6000
Maybe you if you already have it, that's fine, but I wouldn't pick it up. Okay?
so now to the actual question in terms of stropping, um
okay, so
depending on when you want a strop if you're looking to have a just a leather strop that you want to use after your
1000 whetstone you don't need to load it up at all
Just simply strop. If you want a strop to actually play the role of
giving your knives a
mirror polish or polish or some sorts, then you would load it up. The Herald's green is a more like a
4000 to 5000 grit polishing
Stropping compound. The Herald's red is a really good one. The Herald's red is more like a 9000 grit stropping compound
Once you could be on that you're now into the you know, the 14,000 grit compound range. Nobody makes a really nice one
It's I wouldn't say it's like forty five to fifty dollars for 20 grams of the stuff
It's it's probably at least
Twice as expensive as the next brand below it in terms of price. DMT has a really decent one
I think you can buy them in either like vials of three syringes where you have like one micron
0.5 micron and 0.3 micron for like $20
But they're only like 5 grams per syringe so you can load maybe five or six drops per syringe
Versus the Norton you can probably low twenty thirty straps per syringe, but it's really expensive
If you really want to trim this list down
I will keep the Atoma 140, the Shaptonglass 1000
the kitayama 8,000 and then I let this drop and sell the Shaptonglass 320 and the Naniwa pro 3000 and
The Shapton pro 5000 and the Kai 1000 6000 I would get rid of all those stones sell it
Get some money back and put it towards you know, leather stops, some compounds or put it towards a knife
I mean I use knives much more than I use my wet stones and you want to kind of not
Get rid of anything you already have I would say getting two leather straps one you use right after your shaptonglass
1000 sharpening and one you use after your Kitayama 8000 that's loaded with like a 14,000 grit compound
That way you have the best of both worlds because it sounds like money is not an issue for you
So my favorite leathers for strapping is equine
which is horse and then
Buffalo, buffalo. I find to be much more resilient than latigo
latigo is nice, but I finally to cut a bit too easy, and I find the surface of buffalo and
equine much more smooth and even
Than latigo, but that's just me if I were to pick two straps for you
I would go for the rolled Buffalo as every day strop after the 1000 grit and then one
Equine strop that you would load with a 14,000 grit 1 micron compound to use after your Kitayama 8,000, right?
So yeah. Oh
my goodness, that's
So next question we have is from truck guy HD 92
How do you store whetstones? Well the most basic question I've gotten so far. Thank you for this question
Hum
I will show you all right, so we have whetstone here
this is my Cerax 1000 which I adore and
then we have the Rika 5000 which I still adore but it broke when I lend it somebody
I have found that
99% of the Whetstones that are sold on like Amazon and most retailers said it will come with some sort of either rubber base
Or a bamboo base you guys all know every single Chinese made Whetstone comes with a bamboo base these days
But
Once you've soaked your Whetstone and it's fully soaked and you you're done washing it obviously I haven't washed this one yet
you can just simply store it on the base as is and let us say at room temp and it'll try just fine
However, I have found that when soaking whetstones are like thoroughly soaked after sharpening
I have found that I like to leave those stones just at an angle like that if I have multiple wet stones
I'll do the same thing
You have your base and then you have your whetstone and then you have your whetstone sitting on another whetstone
That's what I do. I mean obviously you don't have to do it this way
I do it this way specifically for the fact that I want my stones to dry evenly as quick as possible
I'm doing it this way you might have some dampness on the bottom of the stone and some stones have been known to crack
When that's the case, so, you know to avoid any sort of cracking potential of my stones
I have my stones sit at an angle like this and that's drying and then I basically just leave them like that until I'm
ready to use them again
But there's nothing wrong with leaving your stones
You know on their basis that they come with and just let them dry one side down
All right. So this is from Marlon chin. Hello guys
I used particle bench stones and would like to know how to keep them level and flat
I have found that the Spyderco bench stones that I had were all extremely flat and x squared
They were probably the densest stones I have ever used
If you need to refine them I imagine any sort of diamond plates would work fine
I would say the Atoma 600 may be the best option or the Atoma 1200
But I would just be more concerned of the actual finish that they will leave on the Spyderco when you're done
so that's why I recommend either the 600 atoma or
the
1200 automa
I think those two grit levels will be your best option for your spyderco's
But let me know what you're using your Spyderco for because I'm actually curious. I didn't know that they actually wear down
To the point where you feel like you need to flat them. So just you know curious to see what you're actually using
Okay, so this is from Ezra dig Guzman
Okay, so this is quite a long one, um, so this is
One bit about whetstone quality versus skill though. Okay. So is there not better to get a good fast cutting medium grit?
Like a Cerax despite how a brick can work
Yes to answer that question. Yes
Well, I mean just go on here because if you're a newbie and want to learn you'd have to have you'd have some sort
you you have to have some sort of reference for how many passes it takes to get a burr on a Cerax 1000 and
A given steel type so, you know, there's something wrong if it's taking too long
Is it your angle pressure etc. And then?
Yeah
Yeah, and the rest of the comments I think is kind of reinforcing the first part of the questions, okay
So, let me just start by saying that when you guys watch me do videos on sharpening on a brick sharpening on a rock
Sharpening on a retaining wall. It is purely for entertainment purposes. I simply do it because I want to show you that you don't need
expensive equipment to actually make a
knife sharper or to fix a chip on a knife.
Again, I always say in those videos. It's for entertainment purposes.
You can do it that way but those techniques take a long time, a brick is soft, brick cannot sharpen knives
At least the brick that I have. Cannot sharpen a knife over 61
Rockwell.
At 62 it takes forever. So, you know, I do this video is only to show that yeah
You can
Sharpen a knife on a brick but it's gonna take you 30 45 minutes versus 5 to 10 minutes on a good quality whetstone
so Ezra
I agree with you, your skills is gonna dictate everything
But the quality of the product that you are using is gonna matter a lot as well because it really shows you what you're doing
It allows you to understand feedback
It allows you to understand cutting speed all of those things matter and they kind of add up to your overall sharpening experience
Yeah, so, like I said, I do encourage people to buy things that they can afford
Comfortably never stretch your budget
but if you can buy a good quality whetstone pick up a good quality whetstone like a Cerax 1000 exactly what he's saying here
The Cerax 1000 that I have now, it's 3 years old I've used it
I don't know how many times I've used it to sharpen, you know hundreds of knives at this point
But it's still a stone that I can grow with. It's still a stone that I never feel like I'm outgrowing
And I've never felt like that stone was too slow
Or that it wasn't good enough to sharpen any knife that I threw at it
So so that's why I recommend getting a good quality whetstone from the very GetGo
That way it can grow with you instead of buying a budget
You know
It's ten to fifteen dollar whetstone or 20 dollars whetstone and then having to feel like
in six months or a year that you need to buy another whetstone. Then you have to get rid of this one
Yeah, so everything from my bikes my clothes my knives my whetstones
I buy the best that I can buy like I can afford and
Not try to buy like quantity over quality. But anyways, I think that's what Ezra's trying to say. So Ezra
Thank you for reinforcing that
Okay, so next we have mark chieng and hi Ricky I have cut my whetstone
What should I do to fix it Thanks. Okay. So whetstone cutting this happens?
well
this can happen from many reasons
if your knife angle is too steep you cut into the whetstone when you when you're pushing down onto the Westone on the edge leading
push. That's why I always encourage if you want to apply pressure
apply pressure on the edge trailing strokes never on the edge leading strokes because that will ruin your whetstone and
This is probably what happened to Mark's whetstone. How do you get rid of it? You can just ignore it keep sharpening on it and
It will eventually be grind down and it won't bother you very much
so on the sheet do it on some sandpaper and a
plexiglass and then if you want spent some money
The Atoma 140 is what I would get and I'll leave that in the video description
If you don't know what the Atoma 140 is, and then on the sidewalk if you really want to go
Budget, okay
Alright, okay. So the next question we have here is from Martin
Yared and I've I just got into sharpening stones
I understand skill is needed for a good edge. But do I need to get 3000/8000?
After getting 1000/6000 and will they improve my edge more?
Let me grab another strop
Okay, so I'm too lazy to go grab a whetstone
So I'm using my leather strops as the example here. So imagine Martin
this is your 1000/6000 whetstone and
this is your 3000/8000 grit stone. So you're asking is
Do you need to have a stone that you strop it on the 1000 grit side first and then go to the 3000 grit side
on the new stone and then go back to the 6000 grit side which side on the
Original stone and then go to the 8000 grit side on the new stone
No
the answer is no you don't need to have an in-betweener and then just above
6000 you have to understand 3000 and 1000 even though they sound like they're you know, they're very
different in terms of the grit rating. They are the edge you get on the 1000
can be technically just as good or
equally functionally just as sharp as a 3000 grit stone if you sharpen properly and
In the edge you get on the 6000 versus 8000
It's not going to be any different in terms of how it performs
The 8000 grit will be a bit more mirror-like polished
But it's not gonna perform necessarily any better than the 6000 grit side
So you're essentially, you know
So more or less you're actually repeating your 1000/6000 by getting the3000/8000
It's not necessary
so the edge you can get from 1000, 6000 to a leather strop at 14000 is gonna be or
should be better than going from 1000 , 3000, 6000 and 8000
Okay, 8000 again is very nice and glossy and it gives you a nice mirror polish
but you're doing a lot of steps on a lot of different wet stones and to hold that exact consistent angle between
four different whetstones is
challenging
You know, especially if there are different brand manufacturers those those ratings may not be equal as well
So you want to remove some of the steps and so having three steps to do
versus four steps to do is gonna be much easier for you.
Leather is also a slightly bit more forgiving as well
So if your angles are not exactly on the same plane as what you just sharpen and polish that at the 6000 grit level
It'll be fine. Yeah, you're not gonna suffer anything there
So I yeah
I would recommend you getting a leather strop
Before going to the 3000/8000. In my opinion 3000/8000 is more or less replicating
100/6000. So yeah, hopefully that makes sense to you. Okay, so
androidgame
AndroidGameplay4every1. Okay, very cute. Alright
So the question is, is there any way to clean my whetstone without having to buy an additional Nagura stone?
yes, these are rust erasers that I've had now for our I don't know probably three years or so and you can see they have
quite a bit of orange discoloration on them .
and that's because they've done a lot of removing rust and they've done a lot of whetstone cleaning.
So the medium rust eraser has the white hand writing
There's also a coarse one, which I believe has black hand writing and then the final one has red hand writing
I've been using these forever. I first discovered. These can clean wet stones. I don't know - or maybe close to three years ago
I posted a video on it and
Everyone who's ever bought one of these to clean the Whetstones will tell you the same thing.
These are incredible when it comes to cleaning their wet stones. I have
successfully cleaned Whetstones in the 240 grit range all the way up to
I want to say 15,000 grit with this one rust eraser. The coarser whetstone I have is the
Shapton Pro
140 or is that 120? Anyway, it's the white Shepton pro Whetstone that I use for a lot of coarse repairs and
that stone there it loads a ton of material and it's really
fast
Fast wearing so this stone really never oh these, these rust erasers don't really work
well on that one whetstone
But every Whetstone beyond the Shapton Pro 120, I have successfully cleaned with these rust erasers
And so that's what I used to clean my whetstones with an Nagura can cost a lot of money
you can find Nagura's for you know, 10,20 dollars each, but they wear really fast and
they can go all the way up to like three hundred dollars for a Nagura like this size like maybe two of these
These are like ten dollars. So
these are awesome. I've started using these for a lot of things outside of knife sharpening
so I started using to clean my stainless tool, stainless tool, stainless steel tools.
My Naniwa bridge for example after so many years of using it developed a really thick layer of
like hard water mixed with like buildup of like piece
like just really a grime of sharpening grime you want to call it that and
This was perfect for removing all it off of the bridge
It made it look like it was brand new again. Once I discovered and yes, I discovered this
I'll take credit for that. I was the first one to post a video on this topic
But once I discovered that these were great Whetstones cleaners, I've never used anything else. I have
Nagura's that cost like a hundred dollars here. And I just don't use them because these work so much better
So yeah Android gamer, I'll leave a link in the video description to where you can find these rescue racers
So for the next Q&A, I would select questions from this video here
So leave your questions in the comment section below and depending on what questions I get the most in this video
I will address it in the next video. Alright, well, thank you guys for being here and I'll catch you in the next one