The last step in the stock making process is to recreate the original
checkering design, let me show you how we do that. Remember grandpa made this stock
but he didn't checker it. We have an original Parker from the same period, to
give us an example of what the checkering looked like. The pattern
starts at the guard and continues over the top. It's also flat-topped,
which means the diamonds aren't pointed but are defined by the crossing lines.
Before I can begin checkering, I need a way to hold the stock, the easiest way to
do this is to use a checkering cradle. This holds the stock securely while
allowing it to be rotated. I've got the stock attached to the receiver to
protect the head of the stock. To lay out the checkering pattern all I need are a
few simple tools. A centerline on the top of the grip will help keep the patterns
even on both sides. Next, I'll locate the front points by transferring the
distance from the tang on the original gun to the stock, then marking how far
away these points should be from the centerline. The same technique is used to
locate the point where the checkering panels meet behind the trigger guard.
I've used a thin piece of tape to give a constant gap between the panel's. A long
thin piece of brass taped between these two points defines my master line. Then
I'll follow along the edge of the brass with a fine tip marker and repeat for
the other side. After the master lines are drawn on the stock, it's a simple
task to cut them in with a 60-degree single line cutter.
I start with a light first pass just to follow the line and a couple of heavier
passes to deepen it.
To make cutting the crossing lines easier, I'll rotate the vice. The next
step is to begin laying out the lines in the pattern. They are cut at a rather
coarse 16 lines per inch which is pretty typical of the period. To space out the
lines, I'm using a 16 lines per inch spacer that's smooth on one side and
cuts on the other. The smooth side will follow the line, while the cutting edge
makes a new line. Since this is flat top checkering the layout lines don't need
to be very deep. I'll continue to lay out lines until I reach the first point in
the pattern.
Before I layout any more lines, I'll mark the approximate location of the
next point, so that I don't extend any of the lines too far.
After those lines are cut in the last point can be marked. It's about even with
the first one so I'll simply count out 11 lines, which duplicates the factory
pattern, then I can cut in the remaining lines. They're left a little short until
I cut in the crossing lines which will determine the end points. A piece of tape
helps prevent extending the lines outside the pattern. The crossing lines
are much more challenging to cut kind of like riding a four-wheeler across a
frozen cornfield. Once I'm ready to create the middle point I'll draw it in
with a marker, then extend the lines with the single line cutter. The middle point
is defined by six lines, I've cut the same number on the new stock. The sixth
line makes the last point. Now I can extend these lines and finish the point,
then continue to lay out crossing lines.
The short lines are easier to layout with the veiner. Once all the lines have
been laid out the deepening process begins with the flattop checkering tool.
It's designed to cut a square bottom groove and leave the tops of the
diamonds flat, as compared with a regular checkering tool which cuts a v-shaped
groove with the tops pointed. The lines are cut all the way to the trigger guard
inletting as there was no margin in this area on the original pattern. At the
border the hook and pull method is used and I only engage the front portion of
the tool. This also helps when the lines are shorter than the cutting portion of
the checkering tool, in the really tight spots the veining tool works great. After
the first pass the diamonds are no longer symmetrical, however as the
crossing lines are cut the diamonds returned to their proper shape. Now I can
turn the stock and begin checkering the other side.
Once the other grip panel is finished I
have to fill in this little area, by duplicating this point on the original
stock. Extending each of these six lines is all it takes.
After the lines are laid out they are deepened to match the rest of
the pattern. Now it's time to cut in the border, which is started with the 16
lines per inch spacing tool. I'll cut completely around the pattern
then deepen the line with the flap top checkering tool.
The forend is next, the original forend wasn't checkered so again I'll use this
original Parker for a pattern. Holding a piece this small is a bit of a challenge.
I've drilled two holes in a board that match the spacing for the forend iron.
The forend is then attached and the board is installed in a checkering
cradle. To begin laying out the pattern I'll mark a centerline down the forend
and between the escutcheon. The diamonds on the original checkering are three to
one and the master lines pass through the midpoint of the forend. The pattern
goes all the way to the end. The template helps define the master lines and I cut
them in using a sixty degree single line cutter. I'll stop slightly
short of the marked line as it will become the border when the pattern is
finished. Once the master lines are cut I'll begin spacing out the pattern again
at sixteen lines per inch. I'm adding a few progress marks to help keep the
lines straight. Since I'm checking at sixteen lines per inch
I'll space them out at one-quarter inch, which is every fourth line. A piece of
tape helps remind me to stop. Once the first few lines are cut I'll extend them
nearly to the edge, it's gratifying when all the lines are spaced out correctly
and line up with the progress marks. Sow I can extend the lines to the edge of
the pattern with a 60-degree single line cutter. Next I begin to space out the
lines in the other direction again using progress marks to ensure they're evenly
spaced and straight. Once the final line is cut
I'll swap the cradle end for end and finish ends of lines. The process is
repeated for the other end of the pattern.
The border is laid out around the entire pattern with the 16 line per inch
spacing tool. Now I can lay out the bowtie, which is drawn in evenly on both
sides to match the original forend. The short lines are easier to layout with
the veiner. Now that the entire forend pattern is complete, I'll begin deepening
the lines with the flat top checkering tool. To finish up I'll cut the border
around the bowtie. The last step is to brush in a little finish to seal the grain.
Any excess is wiped off with a paper towel and the finish really brings out
the pattern