A couple years ago, I build this extra-large super deep slatted planter. I love the design,
but the dimensions are way off. It's HUGE! In my defence, it was a custom request from
a friend. Apparently she wanted to plant some deep rooted vegetable or something like that.
Anyways, my mom also loved the design and asked if I could build a similar planter
for some flower boxes she has just like these ones. So that's what we're going to do today.
And thanks to some requests over on Instagram, I'm also going to add a secret hidden storage
compartment underneath. And by the way there are plans available for this buidl,
and you'll find a link down in the description below. All right, let's get started!
To build this planter, I'm using pressure treated fence boards. Cedar is also a good choice,
but I’m going with a more budget friendly option. I often find that fence boards are cracked or
damaged on the ends, so I’ll start by cutting one end off all the boards to get a nice clean edge.
My goal is to make consistent even slats with square edges. I’ll first shave the edge off all
of the boards to get a nice square edge. I can then move the fence over to the final dimension
and rip all my boards, getting 2 slats out of each fence board. Fence boards tend to be
all cupped and warped, so be mindful with the saw. I highly recommend using all the safety
features your saw has to offer, like the blade guard, anti-kickback pawls and push sticks.
With all the slats ripped to width, I can finish off the cuts at the miter
saw using a stop block to ensure I get a consistent length for all the slats.
I’ll start by cutting all the long ones first…
Then cut all the short ones.
For the inside framing of the planter, I’m using these cedar two by fours.
Just as before, I’ll cut them to length, then square up one edge.
I can then rip them into square legs, getting 2 out of each 2x4.
If you look at the design closely, you’ll notice that there are no visible screws on
the outside of the planter, and that’s why I’m going to assemble it the way I’m about
to show you. Now you may think this a little unconventional, but stick with me here. Not
only will it look nice, but it’ll also be easy to assemble just like a puzzle.
All right, with all the lumber cut, it’s time for assembly. I’m going to assemble 4
panels - essentially the 4 walls - then connect those 4 panels together to create the planter.
I’ve made a few different variations of these now and find it's easiest to use
a straight edge on one side and clamp the first board to the top
edge of my workbench. This should make sure everything stays aligned during assembly.
I cut up a bunch of spacers out of some scrap plywood and laid everything out.
So far so good. I’ll now attach one of the cedar legs. The key here is to use one of
the extra slats as a spacer on the outside edge. So, I’ll just drop that in here, and
push the leg right up to it, and flush it up at the top. I’ll start by securing the top screw to
make sure that it doesn't move. I can then drill a pilot hole for every slat, just eyeballing it,
and secure the leg to each of the slats using an outdoor decking screw.
I’ll repeat the same process on the other side, using the slat as a spacer on the outside edge,
then secure the leg with screws after first making pilot holes, making sure it’s flush at the top.
I’ll add a third leg in the middle to complete the panel. I noticed I was getting a gap when
driving the screws in the middle leg. It’s hard to get leverage to be able to push down here.
I improvised a quick solution using a piece of wood.
By clamping it down to the edge of the table, I could press down on it
and get the leverage I needed to close the gap while I drove in the screws. Problem solved!
And with that, my first panel is done. Only 3 more to go! I assembled the second large panel,
then moved on to the smaller side panels.
The assembly process is essentially the same here but with 2 important differences.
First, instead of using a slat as a spacer, I’m actually going to use another one of the cedar
legs. This will ensure everything fits like pieces of a puzzle when I go to assemble the planter.
And second, I’m going to pre-drill the pilot holes I’ll need to secure the 4 panels together later.
Trust me, doing this now will save me a lot of headaches later. Again, I’m just
eyeballing the location of the screws here, aiming for in between the slats so the screws
won’t interfere with each other. All right, with that done, I can assemble the 2 remaining panels.
Once all 4 panels are assembled, the planter should come together like a puzzle.
Just be sure to have a few clamps on hand.
I’ll use one clamp to secure each of the 4 corners, making sure that the top edges are
flush with each other. I’ll then use a couple longer clamps to squeeze the bottoms together.
I won’t lie, it’s a tight space to get these screws in here.
It helps to drive them at an angle, and also helps to use a compact driver like this one.
I’ll leave a link to this and all the tools I use in the description down below.
Next, I’m going to add a shelf to support these flower boxes.
I measured the height of the boxes and I’ll mark that height on each of the inside posts.
I can then drop in the supports and secure them using more decking screws.
I ripped another fence board in half and secured it to the supports,
loosely spacing them. Again, just eyeballing it here.
Did I mention I’m going to be adding secret hidden storage in here?
I’m getting there… Be patient! But planning ahead, I’ll flip the planter over
and add some supports on the bottom as well, for a soon-to-be added shelf.
Before getting to the secret door, I’m going to trim out the top. I’ve ripped a few more
fence boards into slats, and I’ll start by cutting one side at a 45 degree angle.
I can then line it up with the corner and mark the other side. Then make the cut.
I’ll do the same for the shorter sides, then test it out to make sure all the pieces fit just right.
If you’ve seen my old planter build video, you’ll notice I used pocket screws to attach the trim.
But I’ve since moved onto simply using glue and brad nails, and it’s held up well over the years.
Just make sure you’re using exterior type 3 waterproof glue.
After dropping all the pieces into place, I like to use clamps to get the alignment just right,
with tight miters, then go around with the nail gun to secure the trim.
Then wipe up any squeeze out with a damp towel.
Okay, it’s time for the secret hidden storage. I’ve thought of different ways of doing this, but
ultimately this seems like the easiest solution. Plus, it will be truly unnoticeable and won’t
affect the aesthetics of the design. I’ll use this pull saw from Princess Auto to cut out the door.
It has a really thin blade which is perfect for this. After making a few
strategically-placed cuts, the front panel should fall out and reveal the inner guts.
To hold the door in place, I’m going to use rare earth magnets, which are super strong.
I was pretty excited when I found these ones that can be screwed on instead of glued on. All I have
to do is screw a pair onto the door and another pair onto the frame, and voilà. Well, that is
until I realized that this wouldn’t actually work. Because of the polarity of the magnets, one of
them needs to be flipped around to face the other way. Which means it can’t be screwed down. Oh. So,
I mixed up some 5-minute epoxy and used that to secure the magnets in the door frame, face down.
While that cured, I cut the floor boards to size and used a jigsaw to cut notches where needed.
I was eager to finish at this point, so I just used nails to secure the shelf.
All
right, moment of truth. I was assuming I would need to add another pair of magnets to the bottom
of the door, but these magnets are super strong. So looks like that’s a wrap on this project!
Now all I need to do is wait for spring to finally arrive here in Montreal so I can
fill up this planter with actual flowers, not the staged houseplants you see here.
Hope you enjoyed the video. Don’t forget to grab the plans if you’re interested!
Until next time, thanks for watching. See you soon!