If you’ve watched any Korean drama or movies,
chances are you’ve seen these noodles.
or black bean noodles, is arguably one of the most beloved dishes in South Korea.
As many as six million bowls are sold every day
according to some Korean news reports.
And we believe it.
Koreans even have a designated day for single people
to console themselves by eating this dish.
This is Wang Ae-ju, the owner of Shinseung Banjum.
Her grandfather was one of the first to open a jjajangmyeon restaurant in Korea.
Aside from its popularity and deliciousness,
jjajangmyeon tells a fascinating story of immigration.
It belongs to a unique genre of cuisine
which is neither Korean nor Chinese.
And no, it’s not a fusion.
It’s its own thing,
created by hwagyos
or Chinese immigrants in Korea.
Because of the geographic proximity, there’s always been Chinese people living in Korea.
But the biggest wave of immigration came in the early 1900s
when the Qing dynasty collapsed.
These immigrants mainly came from Shandong province of China
and settled in Incheon where they established the first Chinatown.
the dish that jjajangmyeon originated from is actually very different.
When it first came to Korea, it was mostly eaten by Chinese labourers.
Only after the sauce was altered to fit Korean taste did jjajangmyeon became popular.
During wartime, jjajangmyeon was a cheap and filling meal.
The US sent flour to South Korea during the 80s as food aid,
which made it even cheaper.
Jjajangmyeon solidified its place as a culinary icon
when it became one of the first delivery foods in the 90s.
Despite Korean-Chinese food’s popularity,
Chinese immigrants had a hard time integrating into Korean society.
Even though she’s been living in South Korea for decades, Wang is still considered a hwagyo,
a Chinese resident in Korea.
For her, Korean-Chinese food represents the struggles of her family.
It’s also a symbol of who she is.
Neither Korean nor Chinese.
Something completely new.