it's child proof hi i'm paul brodie we are in my shop here in behind the camera is mitch we had
a comment it was on the acorn nut video and and colin wrote in he was saying that when i put on a
decal not decal someone told me that i should use windex because it allows you to move it round well
i don't know about that tip i've never tried it myself i'm unsure about it but he wanted me to
tell this and mention his name colin because if i do this which i'm doing now his wife will go
absolutely nuts that's the exact wording he used now i could make an assumption if someone told me
that their wife went absolutely nuts my assumption would be well maybe that's not such a good thing
but i think in this situation it kind of sounds like it is a good thing moving on we're going to
work on the cub today and i'm kind of excited about what we're going to do we're going to
make the pattern for the seat base i need to make these pieces here because i'm not going to
reuse well actually this one's welded on this one's bolted but
it's an eye lock i couldn't take it off without taking off the seat and i don't like this i want
it to come down and go in a bit like that because this is hitting the frame and it scrapes it so i
got my metal basically the same metal i've been using red sharpies since i was a teenager that's
how long i've been using them and i really think that red sharpies should sponsor this channel
i've been thinking of contacting them
as i'm moving the file i'm going away from the radius if i go straight i can make a notch so
i'm always going away a little bit as i mentioned over on the surface table you see how these are
basically at a right angle to the seat base as i put it down there it scratched the frame it's
no big deal because it gets hidden but i want to put an angle on there so we're going to go to the
go to the vise we're going to use the soft jaws and we're going to use a big orange hammer and
we're going to bend it over a little bit not a whole lot but enough so that there's an angle and
then straight if i do them both at the same time they both get exactly the same bend so here we go
things are flying
there we go they're both bent exactly the same
so now we'll mount them on the bike and i have to figure out the height
and then we need a cross piece and that's going to get welded on or tic tac today anyway so
so what i need to do now is to figure out the height of the cross piece because it's got to
be above the fender so this is not the shape this is just the mounting point so there we go
so there that's that's what it looks like so it's pretty low
but maybe i'll make it a little bit higher than that
look at that
i want to put one piece in the middle just to join them up
to that'll kind of be the base baseline for starting the shape
okay that just kind of sets the level and i know that these are perpendicular
because if you haven't had an angle you can't slide them over the bolts on either end so
that's what i was thinking so that's enough just to get started okay so welding's done
next stage okay so i've got 16 inch aluminum welding rods
and i've got a hot glue gun nothing fancy so what we need to do is to come up with a shape
and the shape is going to come around and i want it to it'll match approximately the contour
of the hoop here and i also want it to come up over the fender and it's going to be a little
bit longer seat not a two-person seat really that comes to him it's a a solo seat there's
going to be a little hump at the back but we're only working on the base now so what i can do is
i can i can glue it right onto the seat base onto the to the loop it won't affect the paint
because i'll put it right onto the masking tape here let's just see what happens here
so this is easy to modify because you can cut it out you can re-glue
there's a lot of things you can do with this it's not just you do it and it stays like that
easy to modify so we're looking for a shape i think you want to have it about right there
oops oh it's quite a bit
okay so what i'm going to do now i'm going to anchor it to here put put a piece across here
and the glue sets pretty quick because the aluminum wicks away the heat quite nicely
okay so we're starting a structure
you can see it's got a little bit of of stability to it just a little bit
so
see that's kind of a nice shape see that that curve at the bottom there how it comes around like
i kind of like that and then if it came in more at the back and then went up and over that might work
because then it would it would tend to hide this a little bit
okay so can you see how the shape you start to look for lines so what we're defining here
is the bottom of the seat what the shape is looking at it this way how it contours
to the frame fits on the bike and then we're also looking at what it looks like from the top as well
so that's what we're working on and then it has to have a
lip that comes down because when the upholsterer works on it he wants to have something that he can
he can tuck the norga hide or whatever fabric whatever it is up and under so
we're working on the shape so we're not using this as the shape we're using the bottom here
and i think it matches the tank kind of okay so it's going to get bigger because we're going to
we're going to build this up we're going to fiberglass over top of it and then we're going
to put some bondo on we're going to paint it wax it and that becomes the male mold i think i'm
pretty happy with with this shape so now i'm just going to fill fill things in that's my plan here
so
so i'm changing the shape here i'm putting in a lower profile for the
for the phone because that seems to be what
what we want and this is bronze rod so it's got a little bit more of a stiffness to it
and
see if we can glue that in right there is that gonna fit yeah look at that
yeah i like that better so we'll have i'll have a little bit extra foam in there
okay well i think i got enough
of the welding rods on here that it's going to hold up the masking tape
so let's put the masking tape on next i got a drop sheet this is what's going to protect
the rest of the frame and cycle parts from the fiberglass resin because it doesn't come off like
like a glue gun does it's very different if you've ever worked with fiberglass it sticks like crazy
so we need to offer some a bit of protection here
so it all came off in one piece more or less
okay i just put a little masking tape over there just to help protect it and then we're gonna put
masking tape right over this because the fire otherwise the fiberglass just leaks through
you can't have that
so
catalyst acetone
i think this is an ounce and a half mat i think i like to rip it i don't like to cut it
i'm just gonna make a mess on my floor here
okay that'll be good for the first layer okay
so i kind of estimate i know you can measure this out perfectly but
i'm guessing here there we go taking them taking a gamble there
here we go
i'm going to wet the mat
it's been a long time since i've done this
i'm just putting on on two layers if you put on a lot of layers it starts to what's called
exotherm and you get a lot of heat and it's not a good product so you only want to do
a couple layers at a time usually if you need more layers you just go back
so i don't need as much on this one because it's
going to settle into what i've already done there so
let's see how this works
so on top of this when this is all hardened up
i take out all the aluminum from underneath and then i i mount this on a piece of plywood
and then i put bondo over top smooth it all out so it's basically perfect and then that gets waxed
and that's what is the mold for the base so what you see here is a little bit crude but
with bondo and a bit of thyme you can you can do wonderful things
i like working with 3d shapes
and once this sets up this will become basically
pretty rigid and then you add bondo on top of that that adds its own own strength as well
it's pretty strong
so what sets off the resin is heat and light it's the combination and if you've got
ultraviolet that sets it off even faster so that's why you should never fiberglass
out in the sunlight or even if you're under an awning because the ultraviolet it bounces in and
it'll it'll it'll set the resin off much faster so i've done some fiberglassing and i i did have
a mentor for a while his name was george and he was well he's in his 80s now he still runs the
store and it looks like he's uh he's been in the fumes for a long time but he's a good guy
okay i think we're basically done here
we hope you've enjoyed this episode of making a seat base or a seat based mold and
i think it's going to work out quite fine a bit of a bit more work to do here
thanks for hanging out in our shop here and uh mitch and i like coffee
if you buy us coffees much appreciated helps to fuel the channel take care see you next time