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Hello. In this video we're going to learn how to install the Redding Micro Adjustable Taper Crimp die.
First let's go over some nomenclature of the die.
This part of the die is the micrometer. This part of course is the die body.
This is the locking ring. And this is the locking ring nut.
If you have a handgun micro adjustable taper crimp die.
It's very possible that it'll be set up to taper crimp two different calibers.
In this case, this die is set up for 45 ACP or the 45 GAP.
The first caliber listed is the caliber the die should be set up for as it comes from the factory.
That interchangeability is accomplished by an internal sleeve.
That's inside the die body. Let's take a close look at that.
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So if you want to set this die for the 45 GAP.
Or you just want to ensure, it is set up for the 45 ACP.
We need to check the sleeve.
You do that by fully unscrewing the micrometer from the die body.
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Then turning the die body, this direction.
And it'll slowly come out.
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On the sleeve itself. If you look carefully.
You'll see it's labeled, on this end, it's for the 45 GAP. On this end it's for the 45 ACP.
Let's take a close look at that.
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The caliber that you want to use, is the one that first goes into the die body.
So to set up for 45 ACP. I take the ACP end.
Insert it into the die body first. And then screw the micrometer back down.
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So now we've got the taper crimp die set for the proper caliber.
Now what we want to do, is prepare the die body itself.
First. You screw the micrometer all the way down until it stops.
And then you loosen it until the 0 is in line with the mark on the die body.
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Once you have it aligned here. You unscrew it two full turns.
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Until the 0 is back in alignment with the mark on the die body.
Now we are ready to install the die into our reloading press.
We'll be installing the crimp die into a Dillon 550B press.
First, you'd want to, of course, remove the existing crimp die.
Second, you want to raise the shellplate.
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Now let's install the die.
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As you can see, the die is not going in straight. But that's because I've got a
micrometer installed on my powder bar and that's interfering.
So, let's remove the die.
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Lower the shellplate.
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Take a piece of brass that's either primed.
Or in this case, I filled the primer pocket with glue and let it dry.
Install the brass on the shellplate underneath the powder die.
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As you can tell, this raises the powder bar up out of the way.
So let's install the die. And you screw it in, until it touches the shellplate.
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Alright. I've got resistance here.
What we have to do next is,
back off the die, from the shellplate.
Because, we can't leave the die touching the shellplate.
Because every time you reload, you'll be hitting the shellplate up against the die.
And in this case. You don't want to do more than half a turn.
Now, unfortunately for me. The 0 and the mark is in a perfect position.
But I can't leave it there. It will damage the die over time.
So, I have to back it off no more than half a turn.
In this position, while the 0 and the index mark are on the back side of the press.
I can still read it by walking around.
Ideally, it would be on this side. But like I said. You cannot leave the die touching the shellplate.
So next. We lock the die down with our locking ring.
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As you can tell, the locking nut is not visible. Which means it's over here somewhere.
Which is going to make it very difficult to tighten.
So, let's fix that. Remove the .. die completely.
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Remove the locking ring.
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Now, turn the locking ring over. And reinsert it on the die.
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We're going to reinstall the die. Again, take it all the way down.
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Until it touches the shellplate.
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Right there. So we want to back off the die so we can still see the 0 mark.
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Probably right about there. Okay. Holding the die so it doesn't move.
Let's get the locking ring down. Okay. Tighten the locking ring.
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As you can see, by reversing the ring the lock nut is quite accessible.
Taking an Allen wrench, we want to tighten the nut. You don't want to over tighten it.
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Right there is good enough. And now, let's lower the shellplate.
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Remove the brass, because it now has powder in it.
Put the powder back into the hopper.
And now we're ready to make our initial adjustment.
The next step, is to adjust the crimp die to achieve the proper amount of taper crimp.
The Dillon 550B is a four stage press.
In stage one, it resizes the brass to its original specifications.
It can also be used to de-prime and re-prime your brass.
Personally, I like to do that outside the press.
So we will be using already primed brass.
Stage two is where we bell and charge the brass.
Let's take a close look at what belled brass looks like.
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Stage three is where we seat the bullet.
We manually place a bullet on the brass.
And then use the press to push the bullet into the brass.
Stage four is where we remove the bell and crimp the brass.
My preference on the taper crimp, is to crimp it enough just to remove the bell.
Such that, the mouth of the case has the same
diameter as the case where the base of the bullet is.
So let's get started.
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First we resize the brass.
Then we bell and charge it.
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Seat a bullet.
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I like to get them fairly straight before I seat them.
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Now since this is a new die, I'm going to proceed slowly.
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Into the die until I feel some resistance.
Alright. I already get a fair amount of resistance here.
Which means that .. the die is turned too far down.
Because I have to be able to get the proper crimp when the handle is completely down.
So let me back off the die some.
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Since i got a fair amount of resistance, I'm going to back it off one full complete turn.
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And that felt better, but too much resistance. So let me check.
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Okay. That is still too much resistance because it started
almost performing a roll crimp on this ammunition.
So let me back it off, a half turn.
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And try the next one.
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As you recall, we are now full and a half turns from where we started.
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Okay. That felt a little loose. Which is good. We're heading in the right direction.
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So let me check it with the calipers.
Hopefully you can tell. At the base, where the bullet is in the brass.
That's my current diameter .4715.
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Let me check at the mouth of the case.
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It's 472.
Since each notch represents .001.
And I'm off by .005. I'm going to tighten, if you will, the crimp die, by five notches.
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Let's try again.
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Still going to go, somewhat slow.
So I can get a good feel. Okay. I did not feel hard resistance. I did feel some resistance, which is good.
Okay. Let me check with the calipers again.
And the base, on the brass. The base of the bullet 4715.
4715 at the actual crimp area.
Let's take a close look at the caliper reading on the case mouth.
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So our last check is just to case gauge it.
Obviously, the caliper is more accurate.
But, the case gauging is always a good step.
It makes sure that the live ammunition meets specifications.
Let's take that round that I just finished and calipered quite well.
And we'll put in the case gauge.
And you can see it goes in
there smoothly and completely.
So what I want to do now. Is find the index mark on the die.
See what it's finally set to. And record that information. For this particular reload.
Which will consist of this brass. Which happens to be Starline brass.
And this bullet, which is a jacketed hollow point.
So whenever I reload that again. I know my starting point for the taper crimp.
Different ammunition could require a different crimp.
For example, if I use a different brand of brass. And the brass is thicker or thinner,
than what I use. It will cause different crimping. So I'll have to make an adjustment.
Also, lead bullets have a tendency to have a larger diameter than jacketed bullets.
So, you would have to adjust your taper crimp die to compensate for that larger diameter.
I hope this video has been beneficial. And I thank you for watching.