Welcome back to Albany County Fasteners - Fasteners 101
I'm bob and today we're going to be discussing deck screws.
So let's get started.
So these are deck screws.
They are bugle head and you can see at the head here that it has a bugle effect to it.
These 305 stainless steel deck screws have a type 17-point,
see that little cut that's on the tip there.
So you should be able to see that
and these are square drive deck screws.
You can get these deck screws also in Torx drive
but what's very important for deck screws is the driver;
that your driver bit
is flat and not rounded.
You see this bit, it's flat not rounded.
These are power bits, which are one of the
best bits you can get, we also have
a titanium nitride bit here and the difference between titanium and a CNC,
they're both CNC's but this is just you know steel versus titanium.
The titanium is going to last a lot longer in time.
So the titanium is a much better bit of course,
it costs more money but the life of it's going to last a lot longer.
So when you do decks you really want to get a power bit.
Power bits are key to your installation.
These bits you will see have no play them it at all.
The play is 0. They are tight, so you're not going to strip the bit out.
A lot of times, or strip the screw out, a lot of times what happens is we get calls
where customers say "I'm stripping the
heads out and I just don't understand
what I'm doing wrong" or "I'm snapping the
heads off." Well there's a few things that will cause that: first the bit;
you're not holding the tool parallel to the screw head.
You're driving it and you're twisting. Two: the bit is
not a quality bit, or three: the bottom is
more rounded than square or
flat, that is very key to a successful
installation of a square drive bit.
I'm going to demonstrate to you now the
installation of a deck screw with a
hammer drill and with a regular drill. Now when you
use a hammer drill do not use these screws without
pre-drilling and IPE decking.
The wood is too hard, you're gonna heat up the screw,
and you're going to snap it. I just have
here two-by-fours. I don't have decking
or Trex type decking. These screws will go
through Trex with no problem as
long as you're driving it in a correct fashion.
I'm going to drive the screw now with this hammer drill
and you can see it does a fabulous job.
I'm just going to get it started.
Ok, I have it started. I'm parallel;
it's very important. If you start to twist the tool
it's going to either create a situation
where the tool is going to pop out of the
drive or it may start to slip and strip the head.
You always want to hold it firm and straight.
Perfect. Look at that. Does a beautiful job.
It's in there very tight. I'll do another
one to demonstrate. Most of the time
when you're doing decking you're going
into treated lumber. It's the same thing
as this, it has a little more pressure
from water. These are number #10 x 3-1/2"
inch deck screws. You can just drive
these babies in with no problem.
305 stainless. If you're having a problem
with driving it and snapping heads, that
head did not snap off, now it's a
hammer drill pushing these in.
If it's going to snap it would have snapped
and that did not happen. I'm going to
drive another one to show you.
So what happened there is I just stripped the head out and that was my fault
because I stopped before I had the head
flush and I can feel the top of the head
that it's hot. The top heated up because
stainless is a soft metal and what
happens is - that screw is heated up and
it's running to the head and making it
soft. That one's stripped out so I'm
going to do another one for you.
So I have a knot down below here and I'm
going to drive this screw in and what's
going to happen is, most likely, this
screw is going to snap.
You want to try to avoid running into
knots because that will snap the head off.
It will hit the knot and it will not
drive in. So I'm going to demonstrate
that right now too because I think that
this is probably what's going to happen
with this. Stainless will not drive into a knot
with no problem, it's like going into very
hard, dense wood and it's going to strip it out.
It just snapped.
So that's a problem, even though that screw went in, I felt it snap.
That's was going right into, right close to, that knot.
So you want to avoid knots. Knots will snap the screw.
I snapped it. Look at that.
So it heated up and it snapped...
I'm going to drive another one and you can see that
it went nice and flat. I'm going to drive one more.
Perfect.
No issues, no problems. So if you had
decking this would drive just fine.
That's 3-1/2 inches, that screw, so this
is an inch-and-a-half. So I'm driving it
into this piece of wood by two inches, so
I'm going in that far plus the
inch-and-a-half, that's 3-1/2
inches so that much of the screw has
gone down into the two-by-fours.
That's a long way for a stainless steel screw.
The requirement really on deck screws is
only an inch-and-a-half, that's all you
need to grab into your joist when
you're putting planking on top.
That's basically our demonstration on
driving deck screws into these
two-by-fours that I used for this demonstration.
There you go.
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