Hi everybody my name's Doug Gordon I'm here on behalf of Adorama
TV
and in this video we're gonna explain to you the angles of the face that most
flatter
a female subject
I want to discuss most importantly is how to most flatter
a subject whether be a female or male or whatever it may be we have to understand
that there are clear angles in the face that gonna work best with them
alright so what they are these basically three angles of the face
and what those angles of the face are generally , look at Tracy
turn your body straight to the camera, K we're looking right here
she's in what we call a full face, a full face is basically a glorified
mug shot so what's happening is when we look at her we looking at her and seeing
a very full face
there's no angler highlights really and what's happening is if she's a plus-size
subject is gonna make it
a lot more difficult to flatter her and also what happens is when she smiles
you're gonna notice can you smile, look happy
her cheeks go up, so our job as a photographer is always to try and thin
out the subject
as much as we possibly can and in her case even though she's a
thin subject we want to try to create angular looks for her , so this is what we call
a full face and what a full face does is basically
again fill it out now if we turn her body turn your body away this way
we'll talk about lighting in another set up we want to turn her face here and what
we're doing at this point
is creating what we call a two-thirds view of the face
so what we're seeing now is we're breaking the face into three basic parts
this cheek would be part 1 this would be part 2
this cheek would be part 3. Now this is very crucial because lighting is going
to become
key later on so we turn to face just a little bit to the right
and now tilt your head a little bit to the left and turn a little bit more to
the right
and again so what you're seeing is this part here
is going to be our main lit part because our main lights clearly coming from the window
and then we see the front in the face which again is set up in
two-thirds and we're letting this side of the face go into shadow
now the next position of lighting were angle up the face
would be on what we're calling a profile to turn your body
direct to the camera alright and now we're gonna turn her face to the window
turn all the way over your shoulder
and what we're looking for in our profile is we wanna make sure the face is far
enough along
so that we don't see the other eyelash eyebrow
tilt your head a little bit to me turn your head slightly to the right
little bit more little bit more right there and then we're gonna raise your
chin up
and your eyes right here looking straight out my hand now what's key is
making sure that we have complete and total separation
between anything in a profile
and the background we don't want anything cutting through whether or be
hair
whether it would be something distracting in the background itself we
want to make sure that that profile is as clean as we can possibly keep it so
these are
three redefined angles up the face now that we have them
we need to understand how to light them
so this is essential because we want to try to keep a consistent lighting
pattern one of the things that may be successful over the year
is staying with one simple lighting pattern and what I consider that is a
two-thirds lighting pattern so turn your body
direct to the camera again all right now I want you to turn
at a 45 degree angle and I want you to kick your front right leg in like this
K bring your hands up on your hip a little bit now we look at our here
even though we have a fill light for the video coming in alright what's happening
is
have face is kinda split I'm gonna take an image here so you could see
right away I'm gonna be right from camera and if we look 'em exposing their
and what you're going to see in this is you have a lot more light
still coming from the right side
so what this is creating is what we call a broadside of the light
and what that's doing is if you look at her face , her face
on her right side appears larger that's because most of the light
is coming in and hitting her right here so what we need to do
and its essentials we always want to bring the face to
the light so let's take a look turn your face to the light
right there and what I want you to look, Camera if you can come in close on a video
I want to see the highlights coming through right here
if you look this side of her face is lit and then we have the main centre part lit
but right about here you start to see it go into a shadow
even with that fill light there and thats exactly what I'm looking for
I want to light the face 2/3 of it because
ultimately that's going to thin her out
because I'm cutting off one side and a partial shadow let's take a look
what that image looks like if we turn that face a little bit can you bring
your eyes here
chin down a little bit beautiful excellent stay there smiling
wonderful and let's look it how much cleaner
the light is we don't have any shadows coming through the nose at this point
now we turn off our video light you'll be able to see
let's take a look we turned off or daylight now you can really see it in
close and let's look
I'm gonna take two images here the first one it will be correct
your eyes are right here looking straight out at my hand
perfect, now turn your head back to me
and now let's look at the difference if you look
just by turning her face 6
inches away not even six inches maybe three to four inches
away from the light it changed everything entirely
it's now created a shadow under her nose its widened her face
and more importantly it through the left eye into shadow
which is ultimately just it's not going to look good especially when you're
photographing the person of color
because when you go to try and print this you can start to break up a little
bit and your gonna not really like the way it looks
so the key for me is to light into her face now preferably when dealing with a
woman
I want to light into her face through her body
by lighting through her body that's gonna give me the most detail
now can I do this by turning her body towards
your gonna turn your body this way now kick your left leg in and now
tilt your head to the right now lean forward
I'm always trying to lean the subjects forward which we'll talk about later on
chin down a little bit and your eyes right out here
this again is keeping it simple with one light your eyes are up
you doing great you're looking right out here you're smiling beautiful
and we have a beautiful light set up on her face
but if we turn her head back again we have
a split now is this easily filled with a reflector? you bet
but we want to try to keep this as simple as possible the most important
thing that I can tell you
about setting up an angle up the face as well
is basically finding the light
now let's look and see how we change this with a profile look
if she's looking straight out here into the window
tilt your head to the right lean forward a little bit chin down a tad
her eye's are right out here now just by this light here
I turn her head into a profile position to make
that's not going to give me profile lighting what profile lighting
is is having the light come around behind the face
and wrapping around the front so what that means is if
I'm here this part is still lit here is lit
the front on the face is lit and then this partt here is gonna go into shadow
so what I'm gonna do to get perfect profile lighting is not move her
I'm not going to move the light because I can't I'm gonna move myself so I'm
gonna take my camera
and step into profile position
I'm when I do that, stretch your chin out just a little bit
you're doing great turn your head slightly to the right a little bit
not so much back a little bit chin down a tad lean forward
smiling I have a perfect profile light
so again you're looking at the same lighting pattern
it's still a two-thirds lighting pattern but based on my position
it changes everything now when you understand light
you can really make things start to happen you can really change the way you
do things
just by positioning your camera and a couple little things
let me show you what I mean basic rule light
into the face and if it's a female we want to light into the body because she's in a
darker color it's much easier
so come back on the wall there for a second beautiful I'm gonna slide you right
over here
I want you to actually turn your legs in just like this
bring your thumbs in your pocket , you have pockets there
keep your backside on the wall, K and now lean the top of your body
off-the-wall we're gonna turn your shoulders in this way but turn your head
to the right
just a little bit by leaning her off the wall and we'll get further onto this
about were basically stretching her out we're bringing the upper body closer to the
camera
turn your head a little bit tilt your head slightly to me . Good now from here
I'm gonna go back by you to camera you looking right here and watch
how many different images we can look at turn your head a little bit
tilt your head a little bit to the left chin down wonderful so the first one
we set up a beautiful full length and turn your head just a bit to the right
I'm off centring you to the right, eyes up here, smiling so we have her
in the right-hand quadrant now from here we're gonna change it to a horizontal
you're gonna turn your head but be serious this time nice and soft in a
relaxed your looking at me beautiful
perfect so there it is we went with a full length
image of her smiling we went with a close-up
horizontal now I change my angle
were looking down now for me Tracy and I'm going to change it here
I'm going to crop her again in the right-hand quadrant
turn your head a little bit to the right perfect eye's down a little bit more to
your right beautiful
just like that stay there and now we have
a beautiful profile image of her
3 images we never moved to body we adjusted to the light
so we're keeping a consistent two-thirds view of the face
were keeping a consistent lighting pattern
and it's that simple and this is how you can build from there because there are
so many different things I can do
we started here we went this way then we started here
and went into the profile now from here
I can adjust myself by coming over here
and turning her face to me leaning off a little bit
tilting your head turn to the right and take a look just like that you're
looking at me
this time I'm gonna change my cropping to make it more unique
you're smiling beautiful happy eye up a little bit
I want you to notice one thing that I did there I raised her eyes
about the camera and the reason I did that is when I'm looking at you directly
in the camera
my eye's go down especially if my camera Heights lower
but if i look above you my eyes open wide and you can't quite tell that I'm not
looking at you
so i's that simple understanding direction of light
understanding an angle of a face you put it all together
and you create the perfect package. On behalf of Adorama TV my names
Doug Gordon
and we hope you subscribe to the Adorama TV channel
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