this fuse box needs replacing and moving to a new position so as electricians that means
we need to look at the cable runs and can we redivert those cables into that new position
within here i have seven circuits and on investigation those cables will not be long enough
for the new location so in this video i'm going to use the Wiska consuming it relocation kit and
as i open it up you're going to think exactly the same as me i'm thinking Elton John i'm thinking
2Pac and i'm thinking ghetto gospel in other words the collaboration of two great singers to make one
great song and that's what we've got here we've got the Wiska enclosure we've got the TOPJOB
din rail connectors from Wago or as we like to call it here on the channel Wago coming together
in order that we can extend these circuits but as we're talking about collaborations this is
going to require me to do a little bit of work so i'm going to need some help as well Rick
as you've just heard Gary shouted me for some work he just passed me the consumer
unit relocation kit from Wiska i want to stick around let's see how i did it
so before Rick gets underway in disconnecting all the conductors here just to confirm we're fully
isolated and we'd love your comments so what's wrong with this consumer unit okay so i'm sure
there's a massive list of things that you want to add into the comments and Rick's going to
now mark up the cables ready for disconnecting and again your feedback would be very welcome
about the disconnection process so how do you label your conductor so you know what they are
when they've left the consumer unit we've already had a discussion off camera
so um Rick is actually going to label up the six millimeter squared twin and CPC cable in the board
whereas i probably wouldn't because there is only one of them but he's got his own system
and he's going to use a system of numbers and lines i think in order that he can work out
where his cables are going to be in the next part of the installation process so how many have you
got in here Rick uh i've got uh seven circuits okay so that last one's gonna have a few lines
on it you're gonna identify the protective bonding conductor to the water there with the 12 lines on
it or something like green and yellow one um no okay so you're gonna leave that one so the
process there of putting the marks on important because obviously we need to arrange them into
our extension box and there we go so that's fully labeled up ready for the disconnection next so
disconnecting all seven circuits before we can put on the Wiska consumer unit relocation kit
and it's got the ability to extend 10 circuits and we've only got seven but how many of those
TOPJOBs are we actually going to use yeah we're going to be using nine sets uh because of the
the rings that we've got here so we've got the two connections that we need
both legs of the ring that are gonna need connecting through so each one of these
is gonna be a set um as with this one so because of that we're gonna need to use nine sets
so the din rails coming off i do like the quick release ones where you only have to
back them off i think you gotta take both screws out on this one yeah i do yeah and uh
once this is off i can present it back to the in front of the cover and marry up the numbers
with the labeling that's actually on the board so number one being say the cooker circuit by
bringing the two together you know exactly what it is exactly yeah okay that's really good and
there's a look up here this is the time that i would say to the customer when my invoice is due
because obviously there is no electricity on and obviously the wi-fi is not working it looks like
a lot of cables have got to be uh reconnected a little bit of getting the conductors removed
see those marks are going to help you in a little while so you pull that all forward are we
yeah not very big gap there to get it through someone's made a decent job of installing it
in the first place apart from all the things we've listed in the comments that we didn't like okay so
just straighten that up so hopefully it uh passes through that little letter box
okay we're probably gonna change the order around a bit when we get to the next stage
so that's ready to come off the wall now yeah so let's see if we can get it off
yeah comment below how many times you've done that pulled the slotted pozi out and trying to
work it into a screw give it to the apprentice it's always a classic one isn't it that's at this
point i wish i had my uh drill handy okay yeah using the old uh that's another thing to comment
would you at this stage it doesn't really matter what you're using because actually it's coming
off the wall and not being used again so some of those things we've mentioned in other videos may
have been used i won't mention that word i'll let you mention it in the comments but yeah there's
other ways of getting these screws undone but of course because it's Rick doing it i like him
to go a little bit old school there's something to use the old wrist action there to get it off
so off comes the board the final screw coming out and you just gotta wiggle it out
i always like it when the next one's on so when all those cables are either in
the consumer unit which we're not doing now because we're doing the
relocation kit but it's when they get back into the new enclosure i feel comfortable
because that's the bit where i'm just dressing and terminating cables but this time i'm going to
be watching you Rick i'll get these out and be a bit forceful now in order to get this out
the Wiska relocation enclosure now needs a little bit of fabrication in order to get
the cables in and you just pop in some of the TOPJOB din rail connectors out the way what
are you doing that for Rick yeah just so i can remove the uh well the full rail here to allow
me to manufacture the entry and exit points within there and obviously just clear out any debris that
might be left behind well good thinking so as that comes off then i think i'm noticing that's
probably made of plastic rather than the normal metal din rail that i'm used to seeing what's
the thinking behind it being plastic yeah just to prevent any continuity because you see on these uh
on the the earth connectors they're a metallic connecting point here and if it were well it's
just to prevent any continuity so what we're saying there is if it was a metal din rail
connection at the back all the CPCs within here would be linked together and we're in
the consuming doing some testing we actually wouldn't have our CPCs for individual circuits
going out because we'd link them all together there i noticed that it was rather high within the
enclosure could i put it in any of the other holes yeah so around here you can see there's a lot of
fixing points so you can fix to either of them or in a different orientation however we've got some
rare section here which would foul on the the din rail so we'd probably have to do a little
bit of an adjustment there as well the reason why it is slightly higher is because you could
have a different style of Wago TOPJOB din rail connectors we've got the ones here with the levers
on the back sections here and obviously this makes it a little bit lower so of course they've kept
all of their rails in the same position and it could be that you had this one returned to you
or you could have the one that we're using here with the push and you'll see that when we go
through the full connecting process so you're going to mark it up now in order that you can cut
out a large slot in the top i'm not in locations for holes all around this Wiska enclosure when
am i likely to be using those Rick yeah you can use any of these if it were on a surface mounted
installation so you could pop these out um stick in some Wiska glands we're actually going to
take this one out and use it to pass through our cables with some trunking in this position
then on the top side here because it comes through the back we're going to
just going to take out a small section which allows us to bring the cables into
so you drilled a series of holes there what's the thinking behind that yeah so when i flip this over
to cut it out i can actually see the areas i need to mark up and then i can get the multi-tool out
cut along them lines and then with a bit of luck i don't crash into anything else okay because there
is a supporting structure there for obviously the side of the lid isn't there yeah so that section
is going to come out so our cables can come into it and you said on the bottom side you're gonna
just drill out that whole are you yeah so i'm gonna take out this hole here as we're using trunking
i'm just gonna move it ever so slightly down which just allows us to fill up that section there
so taking your time here to get it marked up correctly so in order to
get those cuts put into place is it time for the multi-tool yeah i think we're just about ready
so so
so you've arranged your conductors as they come through the old cables and the number order that
you're happy with so you need to give yourself the right order when you're into the enclosure
i always think this is the worst bit unless you've got them in and it's on the wall we're going to
be making off those connections which of course because they are going into Wago connectors will be really
really easy we'll see that in a few moments that's those cables going and you said you're coming out
the bottom of the mini trunking yep so uh cables will need to be identified at that end as well is
that right if you identify the cables are going to be extending i have yeah i've done exactly
the same where i've put the number in system on the other end so they can pair up okay so they go
so through they go this is the bit we like when he just wiggles itself back into
the surface okay yeah there we go fix it back to the wall and jobs as good un
nice use of the spirit level Rick i don't want any wonky Joe moments do we as we get that on the
on the wall is there any caps to cover those screws up there is yeah okay so we'll pop
those on so you're going to place the din rail and you're going to now go for the middle section and
you're going to middle middle the box to give you equal amount of room either side i am yeah i know
i said earlier that um we've got these sections here that foul but just to give myself a little
bit more room i'm still going to connect to these center points okay so you're going to be able to
fit it on there and it will go on obviously with no issues now when i was looking at the
instructions for the box it says it's IP65 and i thought well that doesn't really matter does it
and then it made me think about some of those electrical installations i've seen over the
years where the consumer unit is up a step towards the front door mounted on the wall outside of the
property but not actually physically out in the elements and an IP65 box would be perfect for that
or maybe between two terrace properties where there was like an alley that separated those
properties again the meter and equipment's there and often you could also see a consumer unit in
that location again if that was being relocated within the building the IP65 element of this
enclosure would be perfect when it's located in those two situations so that's it so we're
down to the exciting bit now are we Rick finally going to make our terminations into our TOPJOB
Wago din rail connectors i've turned away for a second and you've already got the first ring
final circuit i see connected in so as i'm looking at these TOPJOBs and the smaller ones to start
with what's the current rating of these rig so these smaller ones they're rated at 32 amps
now then there is a limit to the sizing these ones will go to four mil now then that's on
a solid conductor if you were to use a fine stranded conductor it would then reduce to 2.5
okay as we move over to the larger ones these are rated at 76 amps they will go up to 16 mil
on a solid conductor but then comes down to a 10 mil on a fine stranded conductor well they're all
perfect for us because we've got nothing bigger than that so let's see you connect one of these so
it must be easy because of how quick you've done it so cutting it to length i'm going to strip it
off is it between 10 and 12 mil it is yeah okay and then strip those off and it's a simple case
of pushing it into position it only needs the special tool doesn't it to release them you'll
show me that tool in a minute so you just push it into position and that's it in dress it round
to make that connection all right okay so once that's in and say i need to take out
maybe i'm doing some fault finding how do i release it yes we get the tool okay and
that's an operating tool not a screwdriver is it the operating tool okay you press it
pop that in and it releases okay and it says it's solid conducting just push it straight in
look at that straight in yeah connected wow that is a quick process we're racing along here so is
this a lighting circuit when scrolling it is yeah just putting the last one in for that
some CPC's in i think we can say that you know we said in the intro fantastic collaboration
this is Wiska and Wago coming together to make a product that makes electrician's life
easier and we love that at eFIXX don't we so we should have this done in no time Rick it's all
the preparation takes all the time isn't it yeah mean i suppose it's slightly anything though isn't
it a bit of time spent prayer will save you a bit of time in the future it also looks pretty
neat now it'd be interesting to see if you're the sort of person that would probably put numbered
connections either side of these din rail connectors and again repeat those in the
consumer unit that would be a lovely comment and feedback below if you think that's worthwhile
obviously if there is some fault finding you may find you're opening this enclosure
and testing from here we're going to leave a nice labeled section in the lid itself aren't we with
all our connections so we know what they're doing we are yeah so this is one of the bigger ones so
this is the six mil one it's going to be popped into there see how easy this is yeah equally as
easy as before now what you're going to do with your protective bonding conductor everyone's going
to be talking about that one poking up there at the corner what's going to happen with that Rick
it's going to be jointed in the middle okay so you put it in that green one just there bang in the
center into the green one here yeah now this is a question for the audience and one that we will get
hopefully Joe Robinson to answer in a technical Q and A can you join the protective bonding conductor
if so is this method of connection one that would be allowed so we'd love your comments there
however in this installation the protective bonding conductor goes to a water pipe
and the incoming material is plastic so we're just going to leave it in there and not extend
it through because it is not an extraneous conductive part so we're going to leave it
within this enclosure but we'd love your thoughts on that one can you join the protective bonding
conductor if you wanted to extend it so we've still got another set to obviously make off on
the outgoing side but what's your thoughts so far then Rick i'm really impressed with it to be quite
honest yeah i i really like it once it's all set up and uh ready to go it's it's a bit of a doddle
oh as recommended by eFIXX quote rick says it's a doddle i like it i can see the posters now Rick
there we go so yeah just a couple more to go and then we'll concentrate on the bottom
so we've got the mini trunking up and we're making the connections now to the extended board what
number you're on at the minute as you pull this cable off number six so it's labeled both ends
number six and you're going to put it in into the appropriate place on the din rail it's looking
good Rick looking good thank you so just in case addressing them around and extending those cables
through and we'll be uh almost at the labeling up stage so let's see you connect this one up
nicely in with the side cutters strip it back to approximately 12 mil and then we'll insert
it in all the gear and yeah spoil yeah you are i'm glad you said that saved me saying it
okay so we're stripped we don't double them over into here so there's no need to
so we push them straight in there we go connected that's another one starting the extending process
so the final conductor to go in and that is finished this looks pretty good and our
overall feelings are yeah that we like it it was pretty simple but as always it's your comments
have you used one of these before please leave it below the only top tips when using it as well
we'd be really interested in your feedback as Rick connects his final neutral conductor
and then we're off to see that printed label that we've got on the inside of the lid next
so we're all completed then it's just this labeling we're going to take a little look
at that you've done down here so that's pretty similar to what we saw in the consumer unit at
the start so the first three are leg one of the ring final circuit and then leg two so same ring
final circuit for downstairs that makes logical sense and then we work through the blank one
there cooker lights immersion here and then the other leg of the ring which matches to what we've
got up here we'll also put a label on the front of it explaining what the box is doing as well
and that's it all finished but as always it's your thoughts and comments that drive us on
please leave all them below and i'll let rick get back to all of them