Cool guys, so yeah,
when we're actually starting to look
at a few more hunting techniques,
you actually start looking at your gear at that point.
You might be in different positions,
like right up in the whitewash in shallow water,
getting busted around by the swell.
You might be in some limited visibility situations
and that's where I really find
looking at your gear can really change the
effectiveness on how successful you're going to be.
In low vis, or also when you are up
in those whitewash shallows,
a smaller gun can really make it a lot easier
to hunt different species.
Using shorter roller guns can really help
or even just making sure if you're using
a traditional rail gun,
that you're using a smaller size, like a one meter.
So for me, if I'm up in the shallows on headlands
or even in the estuaries,
I'll be using a 90 centimeter
standard conventional rail gun.
From there, chasing species like snapper,
jobfish, a really big thing is,
again what we talked about earlier was your profile,
but also making sure that
they're not being too intimidated by you,
and the first thing that they really look at is eye contact.
So keeping your eyes off the fish.
So there's a few different ways you can do that.
So again, hitting the bottom,
making sure that you're nestled into that reef
will help a lot.
The next product you'll have is like a tinted lens mask.
So with these guys on different angles
you'll see that you will get a reflection.
So this will block your eyes effectively to the fish.
For me, I prefer a clear lens mask.
So I use an actual different technique for that.
If I'm chasing snapper, jobfish, mulloway,
just about any species really, it can really help,
is that I'll hit that bottom,
find some sand and flick some sand.
Now you'll have that big plume of sand
in front of your face.
First, it's pretty hard to see through
but as it starts to settle
you'll be able to see the fish through that.
That does quite a few things.
It hides your eyes from the fish
but a big thing is also a little bit of action in the water
to some species can make them even more inquisitive.
So you actually sometimes see fish
as soon as you've thrown sand,
quickly turn and come back to you.
You know, when you're starting to chase pelagic fish
a big thing that a lot of people use is flashes.
Now there's quite a few, few reasons for that,
is that you're going to be as it's pulled
up and down the water it makes some noise,
clinking around but, it also reflects a lot of light.
So species like Spanish mackerel, wahoo, marlin even,
this will just really give them a little,
give you a little bit more chance to get a shot on them.
It's not necessarily going to guarantee
that fish are going to come,
but when they do come
the biggest thing it's going to do is distract them.
So you'll often see whether you've seen
in videos or in the water yourself,
you'll see that Spanish mackerel, dogtooth tuna,
those types of species can be
really aggressive towards these.
They will actually start coming in and biting them,
and that's perfect because they're not
worried about you whatsoever.
At that point it gives you that
little bit more time to, duck dive,
get in behind them if you need to
and take that shot.
So that's what your flashes are for.
It's the same too, same can be said with your Burley.
So burley, it will definitely put an
oil slick and some flesh through the water
which obviously they're interested in,
but also it is the reflection of
the pieces of flesh dropping through the water
which does pull your fish up.
So again, we're using that to, to draw fish
in and distract them from you rather than
actually just guaranteed baiting them up effectively.
When you do start seeing fish come in
like Spanish mackerel, wahoo, those kinds of things,
keeping behind them, out of their eyesight
as much can really, really help
get an actual really good shot on them.
So if you get yourself
in a position with species like mackerel, wahoo,
and they are that little bit more skittish,
if you haven't, if you've already tried
diving away from them,
they should usually start coming back around
and you'll cut them off
and that's a really good point is as
soon as you start seeing them come
that's when you push your gun out
and wait for them to swim in front
and that's when you're going to get
a really good shot on them.
Now, if that's not necessarily working with them
if you've got ones that are a little bit more skittish
they'll start positioning themselves, swimming away.
At this point, I really like to get in
behind their little blind side
and whether you keep cutting in behind them,
eventually at some point
you're hoping that they're going to
turn around and think: "What is going on here?"
and at that point, once they turn
you've got a really good shot
and taking that shot from behind can be
a little bit of a 'Hail Mary'
it won't really guarantee a really nice shot on them
that's going to be holding or stone shot.
Same with those species as well.
Again, the same principle with the flasher,
that little bit of noise
will make them a bit more inquisitive.
You can do that with things on your gun.
So with these guys,
once your rubbers are under tension,
if you're strumming your rubbers,
literally rolling like this,
and just hearing that noise of that shark clip or
your float line if you're using one clicking around
again can easily turn a fish as well.
And that's at the end of the day
that's the biggest thing we're trying to
do is make sure that we're turning a fish
or getting them inquisitive enough to get it within
you know, three, four meters
will get you a really nice position to shoot.
- Thanks for watching.
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