Hello everyone, Paul from Rum Barber here and today we are going to look at the
difference between taking vertical and horizontal sections when cutting the top.
On previous tutorials I've been asked why do you take vertical sections as
opposed to horizontal sections when cutting the top, and what difference does
it make. First of all, let's clarify what we mean
by a horizontal section and a vertical or what I will refer to as a profile
section. Horizontal sections will run parallel to your body when you're
standing directly behind the head from one side to the other.
Whereas profile sections run from the front hairline to the crown. Now, I'm
definitely not saying either as correct and there's definitely instances where
one is better than the other depending on the style you're trying to create. But
I'm going to try and explain why on most styles I predominantly opt for profile
sections. Let's take a crop for example, where you want to create a strong square
shape. Now I know many use the format where they establish the length by
cutting a central profile section, then change to horizontal sections cutting a
square line out towards the parietal ridge using the central section as a
guide. Now this is perfectly correct and will achieve the desired shape, but the
reason I don't use this method is I find it harder to keep balance and
consistency. Especially when you work forward as the head shape rounds down
towards the front hairline, and I'll explain a little more about this later.
Also, if your style is intended to sit forward like a crop or straight back
like a pompadour, then I find it better if your section lines match the
direction you want the hair to fall. So, let's look at how we establish a strong
square shape on top by using profile sections.
First of all, we need to choose the length, then I will cut a square line along this
section. You will also notice that I'm combing on either side of my section, so
that I'm lifting it directly up off the head.
Now, you will see it better when we switch view and I cut the other side, but
I'm continuing my square line as I work towards the front. So, I'm not rounding
down following the head shape. I will split section one and use half of it as
a guide and then I'll take my second section.
I will elevate section 2 into section 1 and continue the same square cutting
line. Notice that I'm now combing the section from the front, so that the hair
elevates back into the previous one.
Next, I will repeat the same process, split section two, use half as a guide and
take section three below it. Again, I will elevate section three into section two,
and continue the same square cutting line.
When cutting a crop, I would start the cut with Bloch graduation and I have
previously done this before cutting the top.
I used a 45 degree, block graduation and if you want more detailed information on
this, then I will link a video I made about it in the description. So, by the
time you reach the contour of the head in section 4,
the hair shouldn't be long enough to cut due to the block graduation. If it was, I
would continue cutting section 4 into section 3. So, let's have a little more
detailed look at how these profile sections create a square shape. Elevating
section 2 into 1, 3 into 2, 4 into 3 and 5 into 4, counteracts the rounding of the head
and creates a square shape. And Counting sections in this way, allows us not only
to control the shape, but create balance and both sides by using the same amount
of sections. The number of sections used will vary depending on the density of
hair you're dealing with. Let's look at another example so we can compare the
effects of counting sections. This time we will elevate section 2 into 1, 3 into
1, 4 into 1 and 5 into 1, making our elevation triangular. This will result in
a subtle concave shape due to extending each section into the centre.
Here you can see the square line we have created using the profile sections. On
the other side I will repeat the same process, but we will look at it from a
profile view. You will be able to see the square cutting line running from back to
front. Notice how I close my scissors on the way out,
this is so I don't push the hair and allow it to be cut clean.
Here, where the head starts to round down, I will continue cutting my square line
Depending on my finger angle here, will dictate how long I choose to leave the
hair at the front. The more I angle up the longer it will be, but my weight
distribution will be consistent. This is where I feel there are differences
between horizontal sections and profile sections. Horizontally pulling the hair
back like this will keep more length at the front, but in my experience it will
also keep more weight, which is fine if that's what you want.
Whereas profile sections will keep the length, but will keep the weight
distribution even. So, personally I feel it's easier to create a square line with
even weight, running back to front with profile sections. On this side, I will
continue working my sections into each other, until I reach the contour of the
head.
Here again, we can see the square shape that this has given us. Now this is quite
exaggerated as I've dried the hair as white as possible. But I want to show you
how square a shape you can achieve working in profile sections. I hope you
find this video useful. If you did please share it as it really helps the channel.
Remember to check out our free online Academy at www.rookiebarberschool.com and
as always thanks very much for watching see you next time.