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it's impossible to know exactly how much
work goes into specific details
because sometimes there's so much work
that goes into something that doesn't
necessarily come across as any an
ingredient that we have spent a
significant amount of time
sourcing or
developing
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address terms all about problem solving
it's always about problem solving every
single day there's something going on
that you have to figure out the
ingredients not showing up you have to
find a way to solve that problem in the
best possible way he's not there
trucks here
so so every day we receive a variation
of seafood normally we see scallops
every day
today we're not receiving scallops
because the weather is so bad up in
maine where we we get them from i hope
you're right yeah good good so we're
saving hey
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raise the clamps yes sir
the only thing that always bothered me
with this is not having the head on
because the head is so big that we
probably need even larger box
which would be even more wasteful but
again looking back at what fish we would
receive
you know 15 years ago i think we're in
an okay okay place
so every morning we'd like to get this
all clear work out of the way clean the
clams
i think the race cam is a very good
introduction to the menu
it's just like a sweet delicious meat
the texture is
phenomenal it has like a little bit of
bite to it but it's also very tender at
the same time it's like the perfect give
we have to spend quite a bit of time
washing these
and then we um separate the meat from
the muscle and and the body of the clam
and then we're going to just sear that
off super quickly in hot pan essentially
keeping it raw on the inside
and then the plating for this dish
takes a fair amount of time often so
many of these dishes tie back into
memories of places i think of a
beautiful coastline these dark
scandinavian waters we wanted to have
this brownness from the ocean
but also
taste the pine trees up on these cliffs
it's not obvious but
if you want to think that it looks like
a pine cone yeah it sort of does
here are langoustines they're a little
bit jet-lagged i'm sure
so
we are going to
look through this and start
processing them for tonight
we want guests to sort of experience a
sense of discovery with our food
we serve everything we serve the brain
the tail and we serve the claw meet as
well but we also want to
somehow make it you know recognizable
so like there's this balance between
discovery and the familiar
it's sort of like a goal we want
whatever dish to achieve with every
ditch
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we found ourselves in a place where we
did not receive our live scallops we had
to make time to change the menu come up
with a new new course to replace this
scalloped dish
we have this king crab from norway
receive them in the live
we'll know in the next two hours how
this will shape up
if it makes sense we'll put it on the
menu tonight
at this time of year
this ginkgo tree
is dropping all this fruit
and every year we would like clean them
out just sort of essentially throw them
out even though it's a delicacy in some
asian cooking
and then inside they have these nuts
that we essentially burn and toast
and it has this very specific texture
which i love
uh almost like a gummy bear typically we
use them for our scallop dish so we'll
see if they make make
make it onto the menu elsewhere
okay so at this point i don't see us
going with the king crab i think the
king cup is gonna make it on the menu in
a few
substitutions where we have escatarians
dining tonight
we're trying a few things with honestly
some of my favorite ingredients these
small sweet onions pine mushrooms which
are in season now sliced on the plate
ramps from from spring ginkgo nuts that
just fell off the tree like we're not
trying to just
get by but trying to make a new dish
that makes sense
we could align the garnish on each petal
before it hits the bowl
chris brings so much joy to the table
every day
thank you
this is almost like a luxury it's not
all every day that we have time like
today
we have to do this because we don't have
an ingredient
that we're used to working with
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we'll taste them and see what
happens you have to take everything into
consideration how much time can we allow
ourselves to spend plating or cooking
this dish the guest perception of the
dish we're taking the scallop dish
and right now working with something
vegetarian yeah sometimes for us it's
obvious an onion can be as valuable as a
piece of fish or meat or caviar not
everyone is expecting to go to a two
star mission restaurant and eat
eat an onion it's a 14 course menu but
you can still feel cheated by a fortune
of course
there's at this point there's a lot of
things going on i think we should try it
one more time
i think something has to go
i think the kinko has to go i think it
came too late to the party
let's try that
in general
people have no idea where food comes
from
the quail is preparation of a bird that
we receive from vermont we receive them
whole
you know 99 of all birds being sold
arrive without the head without the foot
to me it just it's just the bird comes
with a claw it's the most natural thing
ever right it has it has a foot on it
like you're like oh
most animals it should have a foot on it
the process breaking them down is
somewhat time consuming so the quail has
these like very small fine feathers
which can rip out we serve the breasts
on the plate and we sew the leg to be
enjoyed with your hands and the guests
simply
encouraged to grab the grab the leg by
the foot and eat it with your hands some
guests when they see the foot
on a rare occasion do not want to touch
it they don't want to eat it like they
don't want to know that they ate this
bird
i think it's an honor to eat this little
guy
so
so these are birds that are aging they
have been here for a couple of days
a lot of work for one bird but it's it's
like why we do it in the first place i
think it makes the bird taste better in
the end they shrink and when they lose
moisture they sort of aroma intensifies
and
you can smell these and they smell
delicious when
in the end you cook it
you have to be very very careful not to
overcook it and to serve at the right
temperature you need the skin to be
crispy you need the meat to be perfectly
medium rare in the end of the day
it
arrives on your plate being a rather
simple duration but the time it goes
into preparing that dish from start to
finish
it's like a 10-day process
so what you what you consume in you know
a minute's time
may have taken many many many minutes to
or days or weeks to essentially assemble
okay so we have about two hours until
the first guest arrive and we are
trying this dish for the third time now
made some changes we removed
our ginkgo nuts it's just looking to see
if you can actually taste all those
things on the plate
it's like taste the ramp seed at some
point can you taste the pine mushroom
how do they work together
yeah i think it's super tasty great good
so we're good so
we need to process pine mushrooms we
need to process onions
does it always come down to the water
and it's like this
yeah i mean it's actually early
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so
there needs to be a thoughtfulness
behind everything you do a doctor's not
a dog a sauce is not a sauce you have to
be mindful with how you're using
ingredients how it plays in in the
context of everything you do even if the
initially the plating
it took a significant amount of time to
place all these mushroom leaves and
onion leaves and little onion petals in
this bowl
by the end of service
a plating that took x amount of time
probably took a fifth of that time in
the end of the day we just had to pick
specific sized mushrooms a specific size
onion shells to make the dish make
perfect sense
so basically by 5 pm every day missile
plus is supposed to be done 5 30 we do a
brief meeting no scallop today
so we have a new dish on the menu it's a
vegetarian course
super tasty
onions and then a broth made from
grilled onions and and it's white birch
have a good service everyone yes
and then six o'clock we open up the
doors
then it's just essentially go time
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i never want to use the term naked work
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yes we will make it work but not at the
expense of anything else not going the
way we wanted to go
so
we're going to find
a new way of
addressing the current situation in the
best possible way
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you