This is the ender 3 v2 it's the latest version of the creality ender 3.
i've been printing on this and it's been working well and i know a lot of people
are getting Ender 3 v2's so i thought i'd show you how to assemble one
and how to update the firmware right here at filament friday.
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i did do an Ender three assembly video and i didn't follow the manual exactly
which i got a few complaints over, so on this one i'm going to follow the manual
and i'll just show you tips along the way.And the first step is it wants me to
install these uprights on the base and this one has two holes
which normally would mount the power supply on an Ender three
but the power supply is inside the base so it's not really a big deal.
The other one's got two holes at the bottom and that's where the stepper
motor mounts so we want to make sure those are in the bottom.
Now it does ask me to install the stop switch for the z
axis but we're going to adjust this later i'll put it on here but i'll just
put it on loose. And there's actually a clip here that
hits on the rail to stop it from going down too far.
i've actually had to cut that off on some machines depending on how it's
built so we'll leave this adjustable and tighten
it up later on. So i'll put these two on and then we'll move to the next step.
There's two screws that go up from the bottom i got my printer on the side here
and you can see the z-stop switch here is installed.
And actually keep these wires away you don't want to get them pinched underneath the
rail. And then this is a good time to connect
to the z-stop switch. The other side same thing two screws to
hold the rail. Ready to move on. Next you want to connect the lead screw
to the stepper motor slide it all the way into the coupling
and there's two screws one to tighten to the threaded rod tighten that up
and then make sure the one on the stepper motor is tight.
And also make sure there's a gap between the coupler and the motor because if
those rub i can throw things off. The next step is
install this to the rail. And I find it's easier to put the screws
in first than trying to do it once it's down there because they're not
straight in and then you can line this up with the holes.
And then use your allen wrench and tighten it to the rail give it a visual
check all the way up and make sure, it should be centered to the rail. The
next step is installing the aluminum extrusion
to the bracket that has the extruder motor and there's two screws that hold it in
place. They're really hard to get to and the only way you can tighten them is
through these holes through the bracket. And I put them in but I don't tighten
them all the way because the I can adjust this because i want to make this
perpendicular to this rail when it goes on. So you want
that perfectly 90 degrees. What i found is if you line
this up with the edge of this bracket right here,
make it flush. You'll be real real close. So I leave the
screws loose enough that i can, you know, move it up and down
and i get it lined up so it's flush with that bracket.
And then i tighten them up with the allen wrench. The next step is to install
the belt and I find it's easier to take the flat
side and feed it around the gear. That way it doesn't grab.
So you can pull it through and we want it the other way so we'll flip the belt
but then take this side flat side against the gear
feed it through the holes and then just before you're done flip the belt. It should almost naturally do it and just pull it right against the gear
now we're ready to install the hot end. The next step is to install this hot end
assembly onto the rail and i'm going to go off
the manual a little bit there is an idler adjuster take it apart first
don't follow the manual take it apart first i'll show you why
it makes things a lot easier. So i got the belt hanging long on one side
short on the other this is the top of the extruder so the nozzle is going to
point the other direction. So there's the nozzle, it's going to go
on like this so i'm going to slide the belt
through the wheels and then the wheels onto the aluminum
extrusion. Then I can flip this over. I'm going to
hook the belt on one side of the bracket. So i got that in. Now the other belt, this
is where taking this apart is important. I can
take the belt slide it through the idler and just let
that thing dangle and then bring the belt back through
and put it on the bracket. The next step is to install the other bracket.
There's two screws that hold this in place. It goes right into the rail.
The first one screws right into that rail. Put it finger tight but don't put
the second screw in. I'll explain why. This bracket which is
the assembly for the adjuster or that idler, it has screws
on both sides. It's got a countersunk screw on one side
and then a screw that goes through the bracket.
These screws actually bump into each other and don't allow you to tighten it.
So here's how i solved it. I put a one millimeter thick washer
through that screw. So now that screw can't tighten against
the bracket as far and the countersunk screw on the other side of the adjuster
fits nice and they don't bump into each other anymore though it's that tight.
So now I've got everything assembled and with that washer, i'm able to tighten
both screws. And this adjuster is solid now. We're
ready to put this on these rails. You slide it on and then get it through
the threaded rod and should be able to move pretty easy
now it's hanging up over here it might take a little bit of a
push now i got this thing in place. There are
eccentric spacers here so you can adjust these wheels
both on the inside. You want to make it so it's not
loose you don't feel any wobble in these things.
But it moves smoothly up and down this thing is moving really really
smooth, now what I like to do is bring this all the way up so it's spaced
nicely then we'll put this top bar on with the four screws. And once you get
your eccentric wheels tight and you put this bar on here I haven't
tightened it yet, this is a great time to check the distance
between this bar and the cross member. And it should be equal. And if it's off,
this is a great time, you can just take this off, slide this thing back off
adjust those screws on this bracket and shift this arm a little bit
until you get it nice and parallel. I actually had to adjust mine slightly so
mine is slightly above flush. But now they're equal on both sides now.
You also want to make sure your wires and PTFE tube are under the bar not on
top of it. And then I put the coupling on. Now it
said to put it in earlier but I like to push it onto the PTFE tube
and put the little blue lock on it and then hand tighten this
in place because i don't tighten this all the way,
you know with a wrench, because a lot of times I'm feeding filament I have to
unscrew this to get the filament to go through. So I just
hand tighten it everything's fine and I can put this wire
in its little lock right here now there are some connectors
for the steppers. They're all labeled so this one says x
this one says extruder so we'll put that one in the extruder.
And again this is a little bit out of order but I'm right here I might as well
do it. And then I do have one for the x switch
so this goes into the end here and you may
need a pliers to do that. And then this goes on to the x motor
right there. Next is the LCD and it goes on the side
here so i flip it on the side it's easier.
it's also easier as you can just pop this off the bracket
and then you can put the bracket on and it's got three t-nuts
and you know you got to get these all lined up and this is this scenario i
wish they would improve but these t-nuts yeah they work but it's
you know if they don't grab you're you're kind of
struggling on i'm getting this to tighten up
but it looks like i got it here so there's three different ones you tighten
them up and the angle this lcd makes it really
hard to see but there's no adjustment and then there's one connector that
comes here it's keyed so it can only go on one way
and then you can slide that guy in place and your lcd is
connected last step is a spool holder it goes on top with two t-nuts
and then the actual spool holder bracket twists in place
and on these machines and actually the new ender threes as well
there's now a metal insert on this arm so that filament coming down
doesn't wear through the arm as easy so that's a benefit that's been on some of
the newer ender threes for a little while now
i still like mounting on the side but you can mount it here and not worry
about it rubbing through the air i connected most
of the connections the only one left that i had to do was the z
connection right here and i also had to switch
the switch back here from 230 to 110 because i'm in the us
otherwise it won't work properly now before i can level the bed or turn this
thing on i also notice this look how loose this bed is
there are eccentric spacers underneath this to tighten this
up i probably should have done it before i assembled all this but now i can get
in there with a wrench and tighten this up so this bed isn't
loose like this i got the bed tight and moving smooth and i tighten the
springs till they're a little more than halfway squished
and then i brought the nozzle down to the middle of the bed so it's just
touching and then i adjusted the z stop switch
right here i just loosened those two screws
and pushed it up until it clicked until the switch clicked
that way i know when this thing holds it's not going to jam the nozzle
into the bed power is on the microphone's pretty close all i'm
hearing is the power supply fan and the fan for the hot
end it's not too bad now i can pop this
display off like i showed and i can control this from back here so
i'm actually going to home it and we'll see how quiet it is with these
silent drivers
not too bad it's pretty quiet it's going to x
the y and now the z we'll see if it's going to nail
the bed or not see if i got that z switch right
and perfect stopped just before so now before i go through and level
this thing what i actually want to do is see if i can update the firmware
updating the firmware on a v2 is so much easier than a standard under three
there's no boot loaders to install no arduino or programmer to connect
you do it all just to the sd card you go to creality.com i'll put a link in the
description below to all their downloads there's a version 1.01 is the latest
you download that file put it on the sd card and rename it
firmware dot bin i suggest you use a separate sd card with just that file
firmware.bin on it and nothing else now we're ready to update so here is
where we're at i hit info and here we're at version
0.0.9 now i shut power off insert that sd card
with firmware.bin turn power back on and the screen will
go blank for a short period of time then the creality scroll will come across
and then the menu we go to info and you can see
we're not version 1.01 my bed leveling g code won't run on this firmware yet so i
manually leveled it and it turned out fine
i did print a chep cube as a first test print not perfect it's got some
stringing but a good first print as far as getting my bed level g code to
work with the v2 i am working with scott latine the head developer with marlin he
did find a bug and he's fixing it that will make my code work in the
future so when i have more on that i'll let you know right here so that's
it for this week if you like what i'm doing here maybe check out some of the
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i'll see you next time right here and film a friday