And now it's back to our tool tip where David and I build this Japanese screen out of shelf
framing and cane blind using these simple hand tools.
First we measure and cut the frame.
Ok, do you want to measure that.
The shelf moulding is really good, its a standard material and it's got a cut-out so we are
going to use that to hold the blind in the frames.
Our mitre saw give a fairly clean cut, so fine sandpaper is sufficient to smooth of
the rough edges.
Once you finish sawing you end up with a slightly furry edge so now is the time to take it off.
When you sand it down don't take too much off or you are going to end up with a very
sloppy joint.
Ok, Dene's done a really good job sanding these down.
They are nice and clean and ready to join.
Because we are joining them at 45 degrees we have brought a small corner clamp to help
hold them still while we drill glue and screw them.
You ready?
Yep.
Ok.
The small corner clamp makes glueing and screwing the corners really easy.
They are available from most hardware stores for under $20.
That's the second frame, there one more to go, they are quite simple we just doing the
same thing and repeating it 3 times.
Yes we are, yes we are..
yes we are.
Once the frames are assembled and the glue is dry, we sand the corners.
Great, so once they are all sanded are all looking nicely finished, we are going to stain
them.
Now this is called Black Japan, it's a good stainer, it dries really quickly so its easy
to work with.
And it's traditional so it gives you the look you want.
The Black Japan stain is perfect for our Japanese screen, it dries quite quickly and is a really
hard finish.
It flows on easily and gives good coverage even in the first coat.
It's based on traditional lacquer and has a bituminous base.
Also pre-stain the 6mm Tasmanian Oak beading.
We then measure and mark the position of the cross pieces which will support our cane blind
in the front and back of the screen panels.
We score small notches with a trimming knife to allow our craft wood glue a firm bond with
the timber frames.
Ok, so we have marked our position of the back framing and this is the 6x6mm moulding
and it's really good cos you can cut it with a Stanley knife and then we are going to place
it in the frame and cut it so its a tight fit and very accurate.
The 6mm beading cuts easily with a sharp trimming knife by rolling it through the 4 faces.
We then snap it and leave the small burr to help hold it in position until the glue dries.
Now once the cross pieces have dried we have got to cut the blind.
We have already cut the leading edge of this blind and before we cut it we have got to
run a bit of glue, a few bits of glue on the string to stop it from all unfurling.
We have done it on this side so lets just where we are going to cut the blind there
David, if you could mark that point.
These blinds are held together with string loops, so it's really important once you have
marked where you cut them that you glue the string to the cane slat next to where you
cut.
This prevents the string from unravelling and helps hold the blind in place.
There you go you wanna finish that off?
Yep
Ok, so the craft glue is great, it's important to put some down the centre frames, they help
support the blind and because we glue them it increases the integral strength of the
whole thing, which is great.
So when Dene is finished doing that we can place the blind in position.
Using craft glue, run a bead around the recessed edge and 6mm beading frames.
We then cut and glue the 6mm beading around the edge and the 3 ribs on the front of the
blind.
Ok, that's good.
Right, so we have done 1 panel, we now have to repeat the same process on the other 2
and when the glue is completely dry, we can put the hinges on and assemble it.
It's good Dene.
Yeah it looks great.
We then fix the brass hinges to our panels and the Japanese Screen is finished.
Well, there we are.
The 3 panels are together, its free standing and it gives you a bit of privacy if you need
it.
And when you don't.