This is how to replace your disc brake pads.
We're gonna walk you step-by-step through the removal and installation process.
Regardless of your bike or disc brake style, we've got you covered.
Stay with us to get the job done right and learn some pro tips along the way.
Pads need to be replaced if they are worn out, contaminated,
or in some cases, you just want a change of pad material for performance reasons.
With experience, you can just look at the pads and know if they need to be replaced.
Generally, the pad material must be at least 1 millimeter thick.
By stacking 3 business cards, you can create a makeshift feeler gauge that is approximately 1mm thick.
These pads are brand new.
These pads need to be replaced.
But check with your manufacturer for wear specifications,
and use a caliper for accurate measurements.
Contaminants such as brake fluids, oils or grease can ruin your pads,
and they're not always easy to see.
Contaminated pads might make your brakes squeal,
it might take extra effort at the lever to slow you down,
and the rotor and pads might appear darker, with oils that can be smeared.
Common sources of contamination are overspray from aerosol lubricants
or a leak in the hydraulic system.
Purchasing the correct new pads for your system is easier said than done.
You can always find a good bike shop, bring your bike in, and ask for help.
You also might search for a pad that looks identical in shape to your old pads.
If it's the same shape, it'll likely work on your brake.
Pads come in different materials: metallic, organic, and semi metallic.
The features of each are shown in this graphic.
There also can be compatibility issues between rotor material and pad material.
Check for any warnings stated on the components.
Typical tools required are:
needle nose for brakes with cotter pins or tight fitting pads
A tool with a flat surface like the PP-1.2 for pressing in the pistons
The appropriate sized screwdriver, hex or Torx-compatible wrench for retaining pins and adjusters.
Mount the bike in a repair stand.
Remove the wheel.
We're gonna walk through removal on each of the common brake caliper designs,
so you can see one that's similar to your own.
On some designs, there is a retaining pin that secures the pads.
If one is present, remove it.
This design uses a cotter pin. Bend the ends straight to remove.
Now we can slide the pads out the bottom.
Some designs have a pin clip.
If present, remove it before removing the retaining pin.
For this design, we can pull the pads out the top.
Some pad systems use a spring that is removed with the pads.
Note that new pads come with a new spring.
But not all brakes use springs. This design uses a magnet to hold the pads against the pistons.
If your brake does not have a retaining pin, check to see if there's a spring protruding out the top.
This design requires the spring to be removed first
then you can remove the pads from the bottom.
If the pads are getting stuck, it can help to loosen the adjuster.
This design doesn't have a protruding spring, or a retaining pin.
Remove the outter pad first, as it is sometimes imossible to remove the inner pad first.
Again, if the pads are getting stuck, loosen the adjuster.
This design uses a clip on the pad to hold it in place.
It may take some force to remove the clipped pads.
And on our last example, you will grab the pad, move it inwards, and then pull.
Remove the spring as well.
And that's it for removal.
If you didn't see your exact brake,
it's very likely similar to one of the designs already shown.
Before installing the new pads, we need to fully retract the pistons.
This makes room for the extra pad material on the new pads.
For hydraulic calipers, we'll just press the pistons back in
using a tool like the PP-1.2, a tire lever or a cone wrench.
NOTE: the TRP High Road should be treated like it's a hydraulic brake.
Even though there is a cable, the internals are hydraulic.
If you have have a flat mount Shimano hydraulic brake,
take extra care to apply even pressure on the pistons so as not to damage the ceramic pistons.
If you accidentally squeeze your brake lever, the pistons will come back in
and you'll just need to repeat pressing them into the caliper.
The same is true after you put the pads in.
If you accidently squeeze the lever, just push the pads back in using a tool like the PP-1.2 piston press
For mechanical calipers, turn the adjusters counter clockwise until it stops.
Some calipers have tool free adjustment, and some require tools.
Some calipers have two adjusters, and some have one.
Now that the pistons are fully retracted, we can begin pad installation.
Installation is basically the opposite of removal,
and again, we'll walk through the various brake styles.
A quick note: correctly installed pads will wiggle a little bit, and that is normal.
In this example, magnets hold the pads against the pistons.
We need to install the inner pad first, then install the outer pad.
And we're done.
This example also uses magnets, but it doesn't matter which pad you install first,
and it has a retaining pin.
This design uses a clip on the pad to hold it in place.
It may take some force to install the clipped pads.
On this model, there is a spring to keep the pads pressed against the pistons.
Some springs needs to be oriented in the correct direction.
After putting the pads in the spring,
we need to line up the pads appropriately and use a bit of force to get them to click in.
This can require several attempts to get the pads and springs properly aligned.
In this example, the pads go in first, and then the spring goes in.
On this model, we install the pads,
the threaded retaining pin,
and then the pin clip.
This example uses a cotter pin, so we need to make sure to give the cotter pin a good bend.
For both mechanical and hydraulic calipers, re-install the wheel, and make sure it is properly seated.
For mechanical disc brakes, after installing new pads you will need to realign your calipers.
See this other video.
For hydraulic disc brakes, pump the lever to move the pistons and pads back to the working position.
Spin the wheel and inspect the pads for alignment. Backlight the caliper to make it easier to see.
If there is no rubbing, you are done.
If there is rubbing, it is likely an alignment issue.
See our hydraulic brake alignment video.
Now that your new pads are installed, you're ready to ride.
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Bike maintenance is a perfect blend of simplicity and complexity,
in that everything is simple enough to make sense,
but there’s still a lot of moving parts that all need to work together to achieve optimal performance.
And if you’re new to our channel, be sure to check out our derailleur adjustment videos.
They’ve got a ton of positive feedback, and they’ll make your shifting smooth like butta.
Thanks for watching.