hello welcome back to my channel we really don't make pants often around here but i'm trying to
change that in the last video i showed you two methods to draft your own perfect fit pants i test
strobe them on some soft knit shorts which is kind of cheating because when it's a stretchy material
there's a little give for the small mistakes you might make but today we're going to make
pants that are firm fabric i took a deep dive into the world of maternity wear and tried to figure
out the techniques or styles that work best for being versatile throughout all the body changes
and overalls they're like the pulley of the pants world so whatever is going on you just change the
strop length and the rest of it changes with it it's like kind of amazing this is the inspo that i
chose from all my research and it was advertised as post bump friendly i have this dead stock
corduroy fabric that i bought i already used it last year in a really fun puffy jacket tutorial
can i still wear that jacket i'm gonna go some of you may remember this lovely sleeved jacket
with her little bubble tea cuffs i think i have just enough corduroy material left to make the
pants oh no i already can't button this up all right me and this jacket might have to reunite at
a later time these are the front and back pieces i drafted in my last video following a blog i'll put
a link in the description because you can draft your own pants pattern for free and then these
are the extra pattern pieces that julia helped me draft just to take the pants pattern into the
overalls zone and even though the corduroy fabric was dead stock it was still kind of pricey
so i think i'm gonna have to sew a mock-up okay i recently took these curtains that were too long
and cut off the excess still haven't hemmed them but maybe this is our opportunity
to have a sound of music making clothes from curtin's moment always dreamed of one of those
i made them from the drapes that used to hang in my bedroom okay really glad i did this mock-up
so we're going to make adjustments in the front adding about five centimeters on both sides so
that the hip flap cover can make it all the way around i'm gonna lower the back by 10 centimeters
i feel like it just sits a little too high right now that means also i should lengthen the straps
by 10 centimeters so that they don't accidentally become too short legs personal choice i think i'm
going to shorten them by five centimeters and all of these adjustments are now cut into the corduroy
who has been making cutting difficult super speedy tour here are the two front symmetrical pieces as
well as their lining and one pocket that's going to go on the front down here i've got my two hip
strips as well as the two hip flaps that are going to be holding the tack buttons to close
the entire pants area over here i've got my two symmetrical back pieces as well as the two
symmetrical back lining the back gets two pockets and the last thing are these four identical strap
pieces to make the straps the hip strip is what i'm calling this piece of fabric that connects
the front to the back right here along the hips it also holds the hip flap which is that little
rounded rectangle that holds all the tack buttons to help you get in and out of the overalls i got
the hip strip by just taking the front pattern piece folding this little strip and then this
is the hip strip this is the actual front now narrower than your real front does that make sense
this strip right here goes between the front and the back just over the hip and this little flap is
for the button closures i've got them right sides together with a one centimeter gap at the top
and a one centimeter gap at the bottom because we're going to do a lot of flipping with the hip
strip pressed towards the hip flat we're bringing the other hip button flap in right sides together
sew along here but just start and stop right on the fold
i'm just clipping these corners so they're easier to flip gonna flip and press
the top edge of the hip flap is pressed in one centimeter so that you can do this
little extra half centimeter tuck and sew it down with a straight stitch
that gets you this cute little skinny hem at the top of the hip flap and over here on the side i
cut a little bit in to free this up this raw edge gets folded in and you sew from the front a good
old stitch in the ditch hoping that you catch everything on your way through these are some
techniques i've not had to use in a really long time slash almost maybe never have did i catch it
yeah oh dangerous so if you're tracking with me this is the left hip strip with the left hip flap
and julia's been helping me make the symmetrical one on the right so chapter one
done
mr hip strip is joining with the front pant i've got them pinned together along the bottom edge
as the starting point to line everything up and just sewing until i get to the hip flap here
i think this is right this will form a complete front for one of my legs give me that overview
you know concisely clearly i'll probably bring in the right leg which julia has
helped me put together we're going right sides together down this center front seam
a few days have passed i'm regretting that a little bit because when i'm in it i'm like
assembling it 3d in my mind and it's all coming together and i know
front side from back side inside from outside and when i step away it's like i gotta get back
inside the overalls inside the overalls inside the overalls
all right i've got all the blanket stitches done on the raw seams to prevent fraying and
the ongoing fluff attack and now is the scary part i gotta top stitch it and make it look really cute
two parallel straight stitches if you've ever owned anything in denim you've probably seen
this before i also moved my entire studio set up to a completely different part of the house
did you notice i did it pushed the raw fabric to one side and put down two parallel stitches
this is the front center and now i just got to do the back center
same thing if you want to be really detailed always push the fabric over to one side the
same side so that it's like consistent the whole way around all right if you recall there were
these pieces cut out that were going to make the inner lining for the front and back of the bodice
these also got joined right sides together down the center and then julia helped to do a little
top stitch this is the front oh it's gonna be like this and this is the back same treatment sewn
together down the middle top stitch taking the front of the overalls i'm going to sew it right
sides together to this little lining piece along here oh and before you do that you might want to
press the bottom edge of the lining piece just so it's ready to be tucked away forever giving
the corners a snip to reduce the bulk fabric and then flip across the edges and then once more
two parallel top stitches all the way around this bottom edge of the lining got a top stitch as well
more of a decorative choice and then here on the sides as you're top stitching the lining and
the front you can press this raw edge inwards and continue the top stitch all the way down flipping
over to the front actually you keep going with the top stitch all the way down past the lining point
down here where there was the raw fabric folded in down here where it
joins together with the hip strip and you just keep going all the way to the bottom of the leg
this is not staying do you think it's done yeah okay i'll go get you
if anything it looks kind of just like part of the natural wrinkling of the fabric
i don't know you guys are going to have to wait till then to see if it becomes the one sore spot
of these pants with the back very similar approach taking the little lining right sides together
along the trapezoid with the back of the overalls but before you just go ahead and sew this together
with a straight stitch we got the straps the straps were just the long rectangles cut from
the beginning four in total so that when you pair them up you've got two julia helped me sew them
right sides together along the two outer sides flip it inside out and if you like
you can add some top stitch to help it look nice we just did two parallel on the sides but
if you want it to be extra detailed there's another world where like you could do a whole
bunch of vertical stitches so that it has more of a what is that word that i'm looking for
it just looks different it all depends on what vibe you're going for all you got to do though
is make sure the straps are the correct width for the hardware that you purchased do not go crazy on
the straps until you know what hardware you're going to be pairing it with i also went ahead
and did a blanket stitch on the bottom of the back lining just because we're not going to top stitch
it closed to look all cute never sure how much detail to go into when it comes to more of a
design decision than cons like actually important to construction
just treat top stitching as your freedom of expression area on these pants
again snipping the corners all right press and top stitch along that outer edge
i'm getting so excited before attaching the front to the back this is a good time to do
all the pockets because access gets much trickier we're doing one chest pocket two butt pockets
could have also done hidden pockets on the hip but i'll i'll let you do that i'm i don't know if
i have the brain space for all of those things right i'll put dimensions in the description
as usual but this is the pocket and what you want to do is press in the top one centimeter
then press this top lip down again once this top part is all pressed you're actually going to
flip it so that the right sides are touching make kind of the zigzag as such
sew a little one centimeter line right here
okay see like that i'm gonna do it to the other side as well i'm going to trim these corners
give it a flip and now all these remaining raw edges can be pressed in a centimeter
it will look like this once you have this you can do a top stitch across to close off this raw flap
and you will have this a finished pocket top edge all clean pressed and ready to be top stitched it
was a personal design choice to make all three of the pockets the same size just to reduce effort
i'm pinning these pockets in as flat and symmetrically as possible and ideally you want
to start in one corner go all the way around the far outer edge then turn back in a rectangle shape
and come all the way around for the inner stitch here if i flip it over i think you'll get a clear
idea outer first inner second turn back at the corners i ran a little bit off track here so i'm
just gonna undo this bottom stitch and give it a little redo all righty here is the finished front
and here comes the back everything gets put right sides together so i've already done one of the
inner legs starting from that center x and this is a great example as to why it's good to start there
because here at the end the front and the back leg ended up not being the exact same length but
you can just trim it later whereas getting this right cannot be fixed later i'm going to sew the
other half of the inner leg now and then the two side seams okay and now blanket stitch on one
two three and four as well as the two parallel top stitches on each one okay it's time for some
hardware i feel like this alone could have been its own video especially provided how intimidating
i find hardware because it's like the last step and this is where you can still mess it up real
bad there's these two clips which go in the front these attach to the straps and so do these which
allow the straps to be adjustable in length and is the entire key for how this is going to be
post maternity friendly and the rest of what's in the bag are these stunt buttons i think they're
called same type of button that you might see to provide front fly closure on a pair of pants
in this case we're going to be using them on the hips and on the front each of these
matches with one of these little pokey studs oh and i gotta hem the legs of the pants
okay i'll do that now that one's a little more straightforward procrastinating the hard stuff
be a good girl do the right thing make a test buttonhole this is the buttonhole this is the
bundle but for my machine the way it works is you place your button inside this top cradle
and by adjusting it closed now it will make a buttonhole that fits this button perfectly
the buttonholes will be going through two layers so it's always good to mimic that as best you can
looks about right seam rip it apart yay this is still me procrastinating
i did it three buttonholes on this side
three button holes on this side they look symmetrical to me so i'm gonna open them up
okay from one stressful activity to another i have tried my best to have this lay flat it's
not perfect but i do think it's gonna work once i put it on remember i am not a flat object but
basically i arranged it in a position that was like how it was when i was trying it on
poked through the holes with the pencil and that gives me these three little markings
nothing to it but to do it i'm gonna use my seam ripper to just do a little starter hole
then with a little pokey stud i'm gonna see if i can literally just push it on
okay i gotta do this five more times as in can you please help me do this fine worked out
they look so good sakura inspection oh feedback what'd you think
do you like the stents with the strap you thread it through generously feel free to pause here
to follow the same pattern but you want it to go through the slider once then through the
front clip and then back through the slider so there's room for you to get in and sew this shut
set up the backdrop time to show you how it looks
before you
stretching time
more photos will be on my instagram with wendy probably also the place where you
will get an update on whether this really did turn out to be post bump friendly i
feel confident i feel like overalls is a good place to start if you're a little scared of
pants if you ever share your creation oh the sunlight there we go okay if you ever
make anything from my videos and you post it use hashtag madewithwendy so i can find it and love it
don't forget to subscribe hit the bell notification so you can be here when we're
all commenting and chatting in the beginning and i'll see you on the next video
bye-bye