We figured out at least 20 ways to hop over a log.
We whittled it down to ten.
Here is an overview, with specific vids on the way!
We start with the easiest and most common techniques,
working through to the tricky ones that aren't used that often.
Most of these techniques also apply to step-ups, ledges, big rocks, and other obstacles.
If a log is small enough, you can just ride over it.
Some basic body positioning makes it even easier and safer.
Keep your body position low.
This allows your legs and arms to absorb impacts,
and keeps your center of gravity low for better balance and control.
The slapper technique?
Essentially this is still riding over the log, but using a wheelie.
Weight the footpegs, then throttle on, and body weight back as the suspension rebounds.
The important point?
The higher the wheelie, the more the rear suspension absorbs the impact.
You can hit small logs very fast with this technique,
and you'll see it used in a lot of endurocross competition.
Using kickers for log hopping. Up to a certain size you can use logs as 'kickers' or 'lifters'.
Remember to weight the pegs to preload the suspension just before hitting the kicker.
Apply throttle just as the suspension rebounds from the kicker.
Using rocks, roots or rises in the terrain as a kicker to get over larger logs?
Remember to keep your bum right to the rear of the motorbike as the rear wheel clears the log.
This will minimize any tendency of the rear wheel
kicking up and forcing the motorbike into a nosedive.
The 'punch' or 'punch through' technique.
It's a relatively fast way to get over medium-sized logs.
A small wheelie makes your front wheel punch the log at around 2/3 the height of the log.
This compresses the suspension and provides extra
lift to get the motorbike up and over the log quickly and smoothly.
Using the skidplate.
It's generally the easiest way to tackle large logs with a reasonable amount of speed.
And if you don't know what's on the other side,
it gives you a chance to stop on top of the log to see what dangers lurk on the other side.
Weight the footpegs to compress the suspension,
then apply throttle and move your body weight back.
As the suspension rebounds, you want the front wheel to barely touch the log.
Ideally it should clear completely.
If you are stuck on a log or ledge,
you can use body positioning and the clutch to launch over the obstacle.
Once the motorbike is balanced on the skid plate, lean your body back.
As the rear suspension compresses, do a controlled drop of the clutch
and throttle to launch the motorbike up and over.
Keep your body weight to the rear until the rear wheel hits the log.
Then throttle off and let momentum ease the motorbike over.
The double blip refers to two distinct 'blips' of
throttle used to get extra lift over logs and other obstacles.
As for any wheelie, weight the pegs to compress the suspension,
apply throttle and move your body weight back as the suspension rebounds.
Throttle off so that the front wheel punches the log at about the two-thirds mark.
Apply a second 'blip' of throttle as the suspension rebounds and deweight
the footpegs to allow the rear wheel to jump up and over the log.
Keep your bum near the rear fender to minimize the risk of a nosedive.
The 'zap' is simply dropping the clutch combined with weighting the footpegs,
instead of just relying on throttle.
Ruben Chadwick also drops the clutch to get extra drive,
and even gets the rear wheel airborne, making it much easier to hop the log.
It's critical that you weight the footpegs as you drop the clutch.
Here, Graham Jarvis uses the same technique.
These riders make it look easy, but you definitely want to start on small logs
and obstacles and work your way up from there.
The zap combined with the double blip technique.
Chris Birch uses a fast double blip technique on this stump.
A more traditional ;double blip; on this concrete pipe.
Chris actually drops the clutch twice here.
First to initiate the wheelie, pulls the clutch back in,
then drops the clutch again to launch over the log.
Pivot turns over logs are handy when there is limited
space and you can't tackle the log head-on.
First, stop your bike close to the log and put your foot slightly on the other side of the log.
Compress your suspension.
Just before it rebounds, do a controlled drop of the clutch.
Pull the motorbike around over the log and remember to back
off the throttle to avoid that rear wheel spinning on the log.
The bunnyhop is a great technique for crossing logs at an angle,
especially if they are when or slippery.
Junior endurcross champion, Reuben Chadwick, barely even touches this log with his rear wheel.
You can imagine how much easier and safer this is crossing wet logs at an angle.
The static log hop.
A handy technique where there is no run-up at all.
Balance against the log, then do a controlled drop of the clutch to launch yourself over.
Move your body back to compress the rear suspension and get good traction,
then drop the clutch to launch the bike over the log.
Punch the log with your front wheel anywhere between the halfway to two-thirds mark on the log.