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hi I'm Andrew and this is Blaster
Breakdown today the Nerf Roblox Zombie
Attack Viper Strike
there's no doubt this is the best
looking blaster Hasbro has ever made if
you can think of one that looks better
than a snake that's a sniper let me know
in the comments below and I'll tell you
that you're wrong however out of the box
the performances
so so I decided that a blaster looking
this good need a performance to match so
I did something about it here now is a
proper Sniper Viper this is now a remote
line HPA Blaster featuring Specter's
Spexbz in the back controlled by a
solenoid valve it has a full metal
breech, barrel and integrated scar inside
the blaster profile and a proper
magnified sniper scope up top depending
on the input pressure this will now fire
anywhere up to 400 fps and beyond before
we start though if you haven't already
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and don't forget to like if you enjoy my
content alright let's have a look inside
okay here we are I thought we'd start at
the back because this is where the air
starts so first of all this quick
disconnect piece I've cut a little
semi-circle hole here and of course on
the left side of the shell and that just
clamps over this fitting so when the
shell is done up it holds it nice and
secure it's not going to move back and
forth left and right or in and out so
the other end of this is a regular six
millimeter push fit connection with some
hose pressed in
that brings us up to the solenoid so
this is a Mac clone solenoid it's a bit
smaller than the Airtac clones that I
usually use not as tall as the Airtac
one one biggest difference is that the
ports aren't all in line in the same
plane so we've got one and then two and
three and this normally open
configuration the inlet has to be at 90
degrees to the outlet so that's just the
way it is so air comes in this port goes
out through this port to the back of the
Spexbz so that's the normal
configuration without any power applied
when we do apply power to the solenoid
it switches position closes off the
inlet from the air supply and vents the
rear of the Spexbz to atmosphere and
of course that action triggers the quick
exhaust diaphragm in the back of the
Spexbz to flip position and dump the
air through the front so that's quite
straightforward air comes in through the
solenoid to the Spexbz by default the
Spexbz is pressurized when you pull
the trigger apply electrical current
the solenoid flips position that closes off
the air inlet vents the Spexbz to
atmosphere which fires the dart and that
brings us to the front of the Spexbz
now this coupling piece has a 9/16" inner
diameter so I've got a piece of 9/16"
brass just a thin ring with 17/32"
brass glued into it
and the amount of 17/32" I've got
is about that long so that when the
breech is fully closed I've got about 10
millimeters or so of overlap now
telescoping over that I've got this
length of 9/16" brass so when the breech
is fully open the 9/16" doesn't come
close to the front of the coupling piece
of the Spexbz when the breech is fully
closed you can see it's long enough then
that we've got that overlap now that
brings us to the pusher tip now this is
from a Worker kit for Prophecy or
Retaliator and I got it in red of course
to match the rest of the blaster and
this tip is normally screwed onto a bolt
that's about that long that goes into a
plunger tube in a typical springer
configuration what I've done is unscrew
the rear component and then this 9/16"
brass is glued over the top of the male
thread at the rear of this pusher tip
the pusher tip then just fits into the
bolt sled using this pin in the usual
way so pop the pin out get rid of the
plastic bolt and this piece then just
slotted in really easy it was very
simple to do I was very pleased that
that worked out now that brings us then
to what was probably the trickiest thing
to get right in this build hitting this
polycarbonate Worker piece that can be
used in a number of blasters but it's
not exactly the right shape for this
blaster so what I needed to do was just
by trial and error work out which of
these parts I needed to cut away which I
needed to shape as well as grinding away
the inside of the front of the blaster
to fit this was really the trickiest
part of this build when I was happy with
the shape I then used a bit of epoxy
putty to fix it in place and that had to
be exactly right it couldn't be too far
forward or I wouldn't get a seal when
the breech was closed
it couldn't be too far backward or these
lips would hit the front of the magazine
it couldn't be angled or too far left or
right because then the tip of the pusher
wouldn't fit between these guide lips
and it did take me a couple of goes
until I had the position exactly right
but it's there now and it's it's working
perfectly the front of this piece has
two screws top and bottom that loosen
and tighten this piece and that clamps
onto the barrel when it's inserted so
loosen stick your barrel in and then
tighten and that holds it nice and firm
this is the barrel from again that
Prophecy kit it's 310 millimeters in
length which seems long until you stick
it in this blaster and you realize
you've got heaps of space to work with
so much space in fact that I've got a
Worker adjustable scar fitted on the end
and it still barely reaches the snake's
open mouth there's no faux barrel or
anything inside this part it's just kind
of got these ridged lines and that's
slightly wider than the typical 19
millimeter faux barrel and what I've
done at the front here is just a few
wraps of electrical tape at this point
which lines up with this molding here to
clamp this barrel and center it just a
bit tighter so we don't have any wobble
back and forth left and right so the
last thing then was powering the
solenoid I decided to store this little
lipo up the front here it's a 3s lipo so
it's giving me 12 volts or so to run the
solenoid I found it would fit quite
neatly in the front here the main reason
I chose to store the battery up here is
because I can more easily remove this
front piece to access the battery to
remove it when not in use give it a
charge without having to disassemble the
whole blaster and this has just got a
regular XT30 connector so that sits
nicely as it is and then I've got the
wires running under here I've drilled
some holes and fed the wires through
they go underneath the mag well
underneath the magazine release piece
and through to the trigger
and here I've mounted the trigger on a
bed of 3D filament using one of those
pen devices that lets you draw the shape
you need and then a couple of screws
holds this switch in place so now the
trigger will activate this switch
pulling the trigger closes a circuit and
energizes the solenoid to switch the
position in fact because I've got the
lipo connected you might be able to hear
and I can certainly feel here the
solenoid switching positions the change
ports when I pull this trigger
so I'll connect my air now and show you
what this looks like
[Music]
and this is set quite low about 20 psi
so at the moment it's connected the
solenoid is open so the Spexbz is
pressurized and I pull the trigger
you hear the air dumped I could feel the
air coming out the front here
and when I release the trigger the
solenoid re-pressurizes
***
so while the trigger is held the input
is closed off there's no pressurized air
inside the Spexbz when I release
it'll instantly or almost instantly
repressurize again and of course if I
close the breech the only way the air
will get out is through that dart that
we loaded in earlier
and off it goes now the final thing I've
done is this might be an oversight on
the part of Hasbro but I realized this
scope isn't actually a scope it's just a
tube it's just a plastic tube with a
little crosshair in it I was a bit
surprised in a blaster that looks like a
sniper that we didn't have a proper
magnifying scope but um
yeah I think someone's going to lose
their job about that oversight so
instead I've got a proper scope so this
is a Bushnell three to nine times
magnification and luckily that fits
quite neatly inside
where this one used to just got a bit of
electrical tape to help in clamping this
and when I close up the shell pair of
screws front and back will hold that
nice and tight and I can get some proper
sniper action going now putting this
back together is really straightforward
my magazine piece is in there I'm not
going to bother with the jam door so
that would sit up here I actually like
being able to look in and see if I've
got a dart loaded or maybe my magazine
is empty in between shots so I'm going
to leave that aside the other thing I
haven't done is attach the priming
handle on the left side when these go in
they're very very difficult to remove
I've got the right side one attached and
that's how I would normally prime the
blaster with my right hand I'm happy for
that to stay in place but if I attach
the left hand side one that would make
it very very difficult to open the
blaster again to work on it so that one
I'm not going to use either but for the
rest of it this just clamps together
in a very straightforward manner
okay that's the main part of the blaster
I've put together that scope is held
nice and firm I did lose one screw port
right at the back here just because the
space I needed to make for the solenoid
you can see inside the bolt that is
sliding back and forth very nicely and
with our magazine in it's perfect now of
course I'm using my regular hex head or
socket cap screws these are M2.6 12
millimeter length throughout the blaster
which is nice not to have to worry about
different screws these certainly make it
much easier when I'm assembling and
disassembling the blaster to work on it
don't have to worry about stripped screw
heads fitting the left side of the
barrel piece just got this tab that goes
into a slot at the front here to worry
about otherwise I'll just make sure my
wires are sitting flat that looks pretty
good
and then slot that in and
nice
secret one underneath this bipod
okay so I know the battery in the wiring
is all nice
this is about where the scar is clamped
tight
there we are
there's my priming handle on the
on the right side
magazine release trigger the trigger
well is a bit small my fingers are fairly
fat but
just fits in there
the grip is again quite small but that's
what you get with snakes so there's my
air inlet at the bottom sniper scope
looks good and yep nice and firm okay so
I'm ready to take this out and get some
fps numbers and do some target practice
okay let's get some numbers now so I've
got six Worker red gen 2s and I'm
starting with really low psi I'm
starting down at 20 psi
let's see how it goes
okay it looks like 20 psi might do me
for super stock events with the 150 fps
cap
let's bump the pressure up now to 50 psi
another six
Workers
okay that's pretty nice let's go up to
75 psi
***
up to the 300s let's try 100 psi
it's pretty nice let's go crazy for 150
psi now
thank you
well that's a nice number to finish on
clearly we saw diminishing returns above
about 75 psi but you get an idea of how
we can adjust our performance based on
the input pressure let's get some
accuracy results now
okay here we are 50 feet for the target
as per usual I've got 10 Worker red gen
2s ready to go my air pressure is set to
50 psi input so we should be looking
around mid 200s as far as fps goes so I
think we can expect pretty good accuracy
at this range
but first I need to assume the position
thank you
nice okay that's pretty good let's have
a look at some gameplay footage now this
was taken at the October superstock
event for the Brisbane Area Nerf Group
the cap for this event was 150 fps so I
had the pressure way down at 20 psi it
was a lot of fun to run at this event I
think I've got a good reception from the
crew on the day at 150 fps some of the
longer distance tags were more luck than
anything but like I say a lot of fun to
use
please leave any questions or comments
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you next time