[music]
00:11 Speaker 1: G'day knuckleheads, Uncle Knackers here, and today I'd like to show
you how to attach timber to a solid masonry surface or concrete.
Come on, let's go.
Come on chop, chop.
00:27 S1: So the tools you need for this job are a dust mask for the concrete dust that
you'll be bringing up, some goggles for eye protection, some hearing protection, a hammer
drill or a rotary drill, I'll explain the difference in a minute, a masonry bit, a DynaBolt
or a through bolt depending on which country you're from, a hammer, spanner or a shifting
shipping spanner or a torque wrench and a brush and pan.
01:03 S1: Now before I do the demo, I just wanna discuss the choice of drill when drilling
into concrete.
You have two options, you have a pure hammer drill or the latest sort of hammer drills
are rotary hammer drills which are ones like this, and they are far superior to a standard
hammer drill.
And they come with different drill bits.
This is your standard hammer drill bit, see how the shaft's all smooth and the jaws of
the drill just clamp around it.
But your SDS drill bit which is used for a rotary hammer drill is like this.
See the different grooves and slots.
It's designed for a much more efficient method of drilling into concrete.
And if you can afford to get one, and it costs about 60 bucks, 60, 70 bucks, you don't need
to go for the big $600 job; this one here costs you 60 bucks.
And I've had it for about, I don't know, five to six years, so it's well worth the investment.
02:03 S1: Okay, let's talk about the anchors.
Now the anchor that I use to attach the timber to the concrete is this DynaBolt or Through
Bolt, as it's known in some countries and all it is, is a loose sleeve...
Is a loose sleeve with a nut on the end of the bolt.
And as you do...
Can you see that?
As you do the nut up the expandable wings spread out, therefore attaching your timber
to the concrete.
Pretty ingenious.
And the size of the DynaBolt, you might be able to see it there, it says 10 mil.
So if it says 10 mil on your DynaBolt or your Through Bolt, that's the size drill bit you
use.
So with my SDS drill bit for my rotary hammer drill you'll see here somewhere where it says
10 mil.
That's the size drill bit you use.
Okay lets stop mucking around and get the demo under way.
Okay, come on.
03:15 S1: Alright just quickly before we do this demo, how deep do you drill your hole?
Good question, glad you asked it.
DynaBolt goes through your piece of timber and into your concrete.
We want the hole to be drilled about 10 mil deeper than the length of that DynaBolt there.
That way if there's any debris left inside the hole, this DynaBolt isn't going to bottom
out and stick out like that.
We don't want that to happen.
Okay let's do this demo.
03:52 S1: The first thing you need to do is you need to position your timber.
Now I've got a line marked down the slab here, so I'll position my timber up against that
line.
That's where I want it to go.
Now make sure you've got your hearing protection on, your goggles and your dust masks.
Some guys like to pre-drill their holes, personally with a rotary hammer drill going through pine,
I don't think you really need to.
So this is how simple it is.
Drill on top of the timber and away we go.
04:46 S1: Done.
It was that easy.
Now let's get a brush or use your fingers or whatever and get rid of all that dust so
that it doesn't get back inside the hole.
Look at that, it's so easy.
Pull the drill out, get rid of that dust, and we're now ready to insert the DynaBolt.
To insert the DynaBolt is very very simple.
Just put it in the hole like that, and tap it in.
Done.
Beautiful.
05:39 S1: Now to tighten it up, what we need is a spanner.
Now the proper way to do it is with a torque wrench and on the back of the packet of the
DynaBolt it will tell you how much pressure to actually put on these nuts.
But most of us don't have a torque wrench, so let's use a shifter or a spanner of some
description, and let's tighten this up until it's nice and firm.
Don't get too crazy, just till it's firm like that.
And there you have it, secured to the concrete, never ever to come off.
Absolutely fantastic.
How easy was that?
An absolute piece of cake.
Now, if you thought that video was useful.
Please subscribe to my channel, share it amongst your friends, add it to your favourites, write
a comment, or all of the above, that'd be even better.
And after the end credits don't forget there are two bonus tips that you won't wanna miss.
So, till next time...
Great tip, knackers!
[music]
06:58 S1: Bonus tip number 1: If you want to get your hole really clean, which is a
good idea, just use a bike pump, a hand bike pump.
And the nozzle that I use is the one that the kids use to pump their footies up with.
So let's attach that up.
Make sure you're wearing your dust mask, put it in the hole, and a few vigorous pumps,
and you get yourself a beautifully clean hole.
Great tip!
07:35 S1: Okay, tip number 2: Bonus tip number 2 relates to drilling into the concrete itself.
Now most concrete slabs, they're about 4 inches thick or 100 mil thick, except on the edges
of your buildings where you've got a big beam, a big concrete beam.
So, the majority of the slab is a 100 mil thick, 4 inches thick.
And beneath that slab is plastic, and that plastic is there, plastic sheeting is there
to prevent moisture from drawing up through your slab.
So, if you drill deeper than a 100 mil through your slab, there's a big chance of penetrating
that plastic sheeting and therefore allowing moisture to draw up through your slab.
Now you don't want that.
08:26 S1: And oh!
Bonus tip number 3: Don't put a DynaBolt in too close to the edge of the slab, come in
about 50 millimetres.
The reason being that the expandable sleeve on that DynaBolt when it tightens, could blow
the side of concrete slab out.
Now, you don't want that.
So, keep it in at 50 mil and you'll be as safe as a church.
Okay, see you next time.