They say it’s like assembling Legos.
You know, just very very expensive delicate Legos...
Hello everyone and welcome to DIY in 5.
My name is Trisha Hershberger and today’s episode is part of our "Build your own PC" series
and the first of a 2 parter - actually assembling your custom rig!
If you haven’t decided on all the shiny bits that will go inside your build,
then make sure to subscribe and check out our other videos in the series.
If you already have all your parts assembled, it’s time to get down and dirty!
And by dirty I mean pristinely clean and static-free.
You can do this!
First things first, before you start putting anything together, you need to make sure you’ve
got all your tools at your disposal.
Think of yourself as a surgeon - you need to prep that operating table before starting surgery!
The first tool you’ll need is knowledge.
Make sure you’ve read, and re-read, if necessary, all the manuals that came with your components.
If there are parts missing or you have any questions, now is the time to call the manufacturer.
Next you’ll need a large, flat surface, free of electricity.
Do not attempt to assemble your build on carpet!
You do not want to fry your system before you even start.
To that note, it’s a good idea to take off your socks while you work just in case.
Lay all your components on your table and set all your packaging materials off to the side
just in case anything needs to be returned.
Actual tools you might need include a phillips head screwdriver, needle nose pliers,
a brush and/or an anti-static wrist strap.
Anti-static wrist straps costs around $5 and can keep you, your case and your power supply
connected to a common ground so no uninvited sparks decide to join the party.
Since we are on the topic of safety, it’s also good to keep in mind that some of these
components have very sharp edges!
And just about everyone I know has a good battle scar from a build so be careful.
Ok, it’s time to do this.
First open up the main side of your case.
Every case is different, but this should be relatively easy to figure out.
Some people prefer to place the power supply first while others
prefer to install it after placing the motherboard.
It really depends on your layout.
I usually prefer to install the PSU first because
it can be difficult to do after other components are installed.
If your PSU has a switch to select 115v or 220v, make sure to set this according to your needs.
Most newer PSUs can detect this automatically.
Once you are ready, position it with the fan pointing downward and line up the screw holes
with the holes on the back of the case.
Screw it into place and lay any cables over the case so they are out of the way.
Alright!!!
One install down, only like a million more to go !
Next we’ll turn our attention to the motherboard.
You’ll have way more room to install components onto the motherboard outside of the case then inside.
So let’s take a look at what goes on the motherboard before we put it into the case.
The most difficult part of the entire build is installing your CPU and CPU cooling.
Once this is out of the way, it’s pretty smooth sailing.
Are you ready?
Let’s do it!
First, you’ll open the socket, usually by lifting a lever, sometimes 2 levers and/or
a metal cover, depending on what kind of processor you have.
Check your CPU manufacturer instructions to be sure.
There should be arrows printed on the socket and chip to help you align the CPU before setting it in place.
Once it’s aligned, secure it the same way you opened it via levers, etc.
Ok, now for the cooling.
If your cooling solution already has a thermal compound applied, fantastic!
If not, use just a wee bit and spread it around evenly - using the edge credit card may help.
If you are using a thermal pad that came with your cooler, remove any protective tape from the die
just before installing and be sure not to get it dirty.
Also, don’t try to use the thermal pad and thermal compound together, it’s one or the other.
Once you’ve got the thermal compound figured out, align the support posts for the cooler
around the socket and secure everything into place.
Refer to your cooler instructions here for exact directions because this will differ from model to model.
If you are using a liquid cooling solution, you may have to install mounting hardware
on the underside of the motherboard or set up a universal support mechanism.
Again, all great reasons to do this outside the case.
The two most common things that can go wrong while installing the CPU and cooler is overheating.
CPUs get insanely hot very quickly so an improperly installed cooler
or booting up to “see if it works” before installing the CPU cooler can both be fatal.
WE DID IT!!!!
With the hardest part behind us, we travel onward to our destinies of sweet PC perfect bliss.
Next item to install on the motherboard is the RAM.
Start with the slot marked DIMM 1 or Bank 0, then open up the clips at either end of the RAM slots
and align the notch in the memory connector to the raised key in the RAM bay.
Not lining this up properly could damage the memory so be careful.
Push the memory firmly into place and the clips will lock back in.
If you are using multiple channel memory, you will need to install the memory
in the proper channels to get the expected speed boost.
The bays are color coded to make this easier.
Refer to your motherboard manual if you have any questions.
And note - when handling RAM, take care not to touch the copper stripes along the bottom edge
because that can cause damage.
Ok, here’s where we are going to take a Zack Morris time out.
At this point, a lot of the toughest steps are behind you and you are well on your way
to booting up your own custom built rig.
Woohoo!
If this video has helped you in your PC building journey, please give it a like and share it with your friends.
If you have any tips to add about installing PSU, CPU, CPU cooling or RAM,
leave them in the comments so we can all benefit from one another’s journeys.
Till next time, I’m Trisha Hershberger and you’ve been watching DIY in 5!