Hi, it's Luke with Out of Darts.
This is our Lynx tutorial.
The lynx is a blaster by Orion Blasters, and while Dan has a really good build guide, we
thought we could clean it up and make it current for our parts, our colors, the current hardware,
and the most up-to-date version possible.
Jumping right in, the tools you're going to need for this are as follows:
You’re going to need…
Pliers, Vise grips although you could get away with
just the pliers, if you don't have a pair of vise grips, don't go buy them,
A #2 screwdriver, A #1 screwdriver,
A pin punch or, in a pinch, you could use a Nerf motor shaft.
You'll need two drill bits: a 3/16” and a 3/32”.
Now I have found these not to be totally necessary, but you're going to want to do this if you
find that your holes are too tight for the pins.
You'll need a hammer or some other blunt, dull object, and it's nice to have a Terry
towel to punch in your pins and protect the work surface you're working on.
If you're watching this video, you may have purchased this in one of a couple of ways.
One is maybe you just purchased the hardware from us, and you've printed your own Parts.
Optionally included are these three pieces: the plunger, the turnaround,d and the catch
with a metal washer.
The reason that we offer these is we want to make sure that you've got a good air seal
if you're printing your own Blaster since these are the most problematic parts that
do affect the performance of your blaster.
If you chose to buy the parts from us, then you'll get all of these 3D parts that you
see here.
You can compare your inventory that you receive to what you see on the frame; literally, everything
that's in the frame should have been included if you purchased a hardware plus 3D printed
parts kit.
This video is just going to be the assembly.
We have a completely separate video for care tuning maintenance and other common questions
for the Blaster.
We separated that out, so if you're interested in that, we'll have that down in the description
and on the listing as well.
Without further Ado, let's get to it.
First, I'm going to show you how to install the O-rings on your plunger head and your
turn-around.
Pretty obvious you can just take your larger dash-123 O-rings, and they just go right on
very easily.
I wouldn't lubricate them until you actually put them into the plunger tube.
Now, these get a little bit trickier.
These are your dash-016 O-rings, and there are two of them stacked inside here.
I'll try to show this best I can on camera, and I'm sure there are some veterans out there
that are going to laugh at me putting us in and how long it takes me.
I mean, it's not that it takes that long, but you just have to work it down into the
channel.
I can find it Handy to grab a little tool to actually push it, and you're just going
to work it up and in until you've got it completely in the Channel all the way around just like
that.
Then you repeat for the second O-ring, which should be the easier one because it is further
towards the top.
So that one should pop in just like that.
You want those to be nice, and even in there, you want to make sure that the inside is good
and cleaned out and that's ready to go.
First, we're going to assemble the plunger.
You're going to need the parts that are pictured here, including the turnaround along with
your short piece of threaded rod, these two lock nuts, and this fatter thicker O-ring.
First, you're going to take your threaded rod, and you're going to thread this onto
one end, and you can take your pliers and clamp that on.
Now if you have a tool for this, go ahead, but Dan also did this clever thing and included
basically a cutout inside this part and this part here so you can use either one of these
as your wrench, which I just thought Dan hats off to you what a clever little design there.
You just want to go to about flush there, and then we can go ahead and thread this through.
Then we'll take the portion of the plunger that's containing the O-ring, and you're going
to thread this on.
This one's been on and off a few times, so it went on a little easier.
If you have any issues there again, just put it back in here and use that to support it
as you thread it in.
After that, we're going to take this larger O-ring, and we're going to drop that in place
and add our last nut.
Once we've got that there, we're going to want to tighten the whole thing up by taking
both ends of this again.
I'm just using these built-in tools to hold it down there.
We want to go till this is just snug but not totally tight.
Once you've got your plunger assembled, we want to check the tightness of this nut here.
The turnaround itself engages with that, and you want this to have a little bit of resistance
as it goes through but not be completely loose or too tight.
If it's not tight enough, which mine is not, I'm going to go ahead and actually tighten
that up just by threading these together a little bit.
That will compress that O-ring together, which expands it making it a tighter seal.
Very clever design.
Now there, I can see I’ve actually gone too tight.
You essentially want a little bit of resistance, but not so much that it feels like it's getting
stuck or dragging on there.
That should be good to go.
Now we're going to assemble our stock and the pad here.
It's just two simple prints with two screws that go through.
You're going to want the two coarse-threaded -- these are self-tapping plastic screws,
and you're just going to screw them both in all the way.
This is a #2 screwdriver.
And you want this just tight enough until you feel a little bit of resistance, and then
you're good to go.
Now we're going to assemble our magwell, you'll need these two parts: this is the actual Mag
release and the spring.
This is probably the most finicky bit of the whole assembly if I had to give an opinion.
You can do this a couple different ways, but I’ve had good luck using my finger.
If you wanted, you could use pliers to hold that in place, and then you're going to carefully
pop this in and around, and it should look just like that.
Now we're going to build our transfer bar.
Now the transfer bar is a non-symmetrical part; you'll notice there's a cutout here,
and that's what allows for the extra play for the follower and the plunger tube to move.
First, we're going to take the O-ring, we're going to put the O-ring on this larger Bolt,
and we're just going to thumb tighten this for now because, like the other part we set
up earlier, we want it to be snug but not too tight.
And I think I actually already have it a hair too tight, so you want it to give some resistance
but not pop out.
Very clever way that Dan has set this up.
Then we're going to take our two longer screws, and these are the fine threaded screws, not
the coarse threaded ones like the self-tapping, and we're going to send these screws down
through from the top just like that.
I believe I'm using a number one here, but it looks like a number one or number two is
totally fine.
You want these nice and snug but don't over-tighten too far.
So, the final should look just like that with this notch on this side.
One thing I recently found out is that you can actually access the adjustment on this
screw once the Blaster is assembled, so don't fret too much about how tight this is right
now.
Next, we're going to assemble our receiver and the guard, but we're going to start by
putting this backstrap on here.
It's got two more of the self-tapping coarse threaded screws that screw on through the
back, and this is a #2 screwdriver.
Now we're going to prep the receiver, the trigger, the sear, and the trigger guard.
Now Dan's original tutorial mentioned using a 3/32” drill bit to True up these holes.
However, if you purchased our prints, so far, I have not had to do this myself; simply punching
in the pins has been plenty.
So, if you struggle getting the pins in, just ream out those holes with some sort of drill
bit that's close.
If you don't, then you don't need to worry about it.
So first, we're going to take our receiver here and our trigger, and we're going to just
set this in place.
You can see where that hole is going to line up with that one, and we're going to take
our pin and drop it in from the top until we get it to line up.
Now you can usually start it with your finger, and then I'm going to recommend taking a pin
punch.
Again, you could use an old motor; so this is an old motor I don't want, and you can
actually do it that way.
But, since I do have the proper tool, I'm going to go ahead and use a pin punch.
And you're just going to tap it in, so it's centered the way the length of these pins.
It's about a mil and a half or a couple millimeters short on either side, so it should be fully
recessed, and that should move freely.
If you feel any resistance, you may need to ream out your holes a little bit, but this
is moving nice and freely without any issue.
Next, we're going to take our spring and insert it into the two holes and compress the spring
with the trigger by pushing the trigger all the way back.
Next, we're going to take our sear, and that tooth needs to eat that other tooth inside
there.
I actually found it easier to go around this way.
You'll see those two teeth are going to line up, and it should look like that.
Then we're going to take our second pin, and you can look down this hole here to make sure
that you've actually got it lined up.
I just wiggle around the sear until it goes in and then again gently tap it into place.
This should not take a lot of force, and if you do it right, it should have just enough
resistance, but it should hold, and this should feel very smooth.
To install the trigger guard, we're just simply going to plug this point in here and Flex
this just enough to pop up and in.
Make sure your trigger is still working well, and you are good to go there.
Now we're going to install the barrel screws.
These screws are plastic, so they don't scratch your Barrel when they're installed.
You're going to take these two nuts -- the only two nuts in the kit, and you've got two
holes here that line up on either side.
You're going to drop one at a time in place, and you're going to get it in just like that.
Hopefully, you can see that on camera.
Then you're going to hold that in place with your finger, flip it over, and thread in your
thumb screw.
Now you only need to thread it in a few threads, just enough to hold it.
If you go any farther, you won't be able to get your Barrel in.
Then repeat for the other side:
Drop that in (it should look like that), hold that in place with your finger, and flip it
around….
You can see those threads there exposed.
Thread that in place with just a few threads to hold it.
Now we're going to install our pump assembly.
First, you're going to take these hexagonal standoffs, and you're just going to push them
into these holes here.
In case you're wondering, at the front of the bar, you should see a little hexagonal
tool here that's actually so you can field strip and adjust these as needed.
We're going to take two of the screws with the lock washers on them, and we're just going
to tighten that up.
Then you can flip that over and repeat for the other side.
You may notice my bars are looking pretty beat up.
It's mostly because this set of bars has gone through like six installations and rebuilds
and tear downs and photography.
Your bars should look cleaner than this.
Now we're going to install our catch, and what you're going to do first is take this
here -- and the orientation is like so, and we're going to slide this down to the second
hole.
Just like so.
Then we're going to take our two smallest screws that do not have the lock washer.
Don't make the mistake of using the ones with the lock washer.
I already did that, and I scratched my plunger tube up.
So, this one does not require the lock washer.
We're going to go nice and snug on these, but not overly tight, just like the rest of
the Blaster.
Flip it over; do the same for the reverse.
Take your catch and your spring.
You want it to face this way like so, and we're going to put that spring in there.
I use my fingernail to hold it like that, and then they sort of just pop right in place
pretty easily.
Next, we're going to install our spring guide, so this part's going to go on like so.
You're going to take your guide tube here; you'll notice there are little marred marks
on mine because it's been installed over and over.
That's because the screws actually go through the pump bar through the plastic part into
this to hold it in place.
So slide that all the way in and install two of the shortest screws without the catch washer.
And that's our pump and catch.
It's now a good time to take your actual plunger and see if it's catching.
Nice catch there.
If you hit this button right here, it should loosen up, and there should be no friction
should be nice and smooth, and that feels just great.
Now for my favorite part: we're going to put all the sub-assemblies together into one blaster.
Start by taking your stock and the longest bars with The Notches.
You're going to put the notch down -- because it lines up with that hole, you're going to
slide it through both of them through, and you can take one of your pins, and you can
actually lock that in place.
After you've got your rods in, you can take your transfer bar up top, and you're going
to slide it into this Channel all the way back.
Next, you'll take your turn around and this other piece that mates up with the turnaround
and slide these in just like this.
Then you're going to slide the whole assembly carefully down transfer bar should be on top,
and that should come all the way to the base.
Then you'll take your plunger tube, and we're just going to push that into place.
Just press-fit and hold on to the whole assembly.
Then you can take this u-shaped portion spacer that goes up top.
All three of these bars, you need to carefully thread through their three respective slots,
and that just slides all the way back.
Now we're going to take your grip assembly, and you can do the same thing.
You’re going to slide all three of these bars into their new home.
There we go.
Next, you're going to take your plunger, and we're going to lubricate it.
I'm going to use a little bit of the slug slym; you don't need a colossal amount of
it, just enough to cover the O-ring with a light amount of lube.
Then you can drop the plunger all the way in.
Then follow that up with a spring and followed by the final assembly: the pump and catch.
Again, you're sliding These Bars through there.
As you're inserting this, you'll need to get the transfer bar past this Notch here.
It's got a little bit of flex because it is Aluminum, so you should be able to work that
all in and then get the transfer bar pass so you can see how this moves and it catches
that bar.
Now we'll take this top bar, and we're going to just insert that into the top of the receiver.
Then we're going to slide in the blank piece of Picatinny rail, followed by the final piece
front, which then mates into these little semi-circle cutouts on the bars themselves.
After you've got that done, you can take your pin, and you can actually put that in place
all the way through.
The pins for reference can come from either side; it's really a visual appeal.
I've put them on the right side of the Blaster, so when I'm holding it, right-handed people
see the flat side instead of the pointy side of the pin.
Then we can take our barrel, and we're going to insert that all the way through.
If you've got a standard Slug-style barrel, the standard Barrel that we make in-house,
it is symmetrical, so it doesn't matter which way you go.
Then you're going to tighten up your nylon thumb screws.
Finally, we're going to take our scar; this is an OOD scar that we include on everyone
because we want an orange muzzle, and we're just going to push that in place.
It should stick out about a finger’s worth on the front.
Lastly, I want to show you how to install the thumb catch.
This is an optional part that we include on all of our blasters, and it allows you to
use your thumb back here to hit the mag release.
Pretty simple.
You're just going to slide this on here, you're going to push that down in place, and you're
just going to bend this up into that hole, and there you are.
That way, when you've got this on the blaster, you can hit your mag release like this.
Now I personally don't use this on my blaster, mostly because I tend to drop the mag by accident.
So, it's definitely a learned behavior thing.
I prefer just reaching back here and grabbing the mag, but it's a pretty easy install, and
it's a simple part, so we've included it on all the blasters.
It will match your blaster.
I broke the other one, long story.
There's our final assembled Lynx.
I went ahead and threw a vertical foregrip.
I like a vertical or an angled.
There's a lot of different options; we'll have more and more in the future.
One thing you do want to test after you've built it is just to see what your air seal
is like.
A good air seal should keep this plunger, when plugged up front, going for at least
a few seconds, if not longer.
So, let's see what we got.
I would say that's a good enough air seal; I would not be messing with it.
We have another video coming that is all the tips and tricks and maintenance and tuning
of this Blaster, so we will link that in the description below.
Thank you very much for watching.
I hope this was helpful in building your own Lynx, and I hope you enjoy the blaster.
I just love these things.
Until next time, I'm out of darts.