- [Narrator] This is Miriam Maisel, better known as Midge.
You know her from "The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel."
You may remember this fabulous pink ensemble
or this evening dress.
And of course, who could forget this resort look.
But are they accurate?
We got this fashion historian-
- Hi, I'm Raissa Bretana and I'm a fashion historian.
- [Narrator] To walk us through
what "The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel" got right
and what they got mostly right about these looks.
- "The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel" is an Amazon Prime
original series that follows the adventures
of Miriam Midge Maisel,
a housewife who decides to pursue a career
as a stand-up comic.
The show premiered in 2017
with three seasons available to stream
and a fourth season currently in production.
The first season of "The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel"
opens in the fall of 1958
and the third season closes in the summer of 1960.
These few years were a very interesting transitional period
in the evolution of fashion,
which we can trace through Midge's wardrobe.
The show is primarily set in New York
and is a love letter to the city in the mid 20th century.
We get to see the full breadth of the bustling metropolis
from the Maisels' affluent neighborhood
on the Upper West Side
to the grittier art scene downtown in Greenwich Village.
Midge begins her standup comedy career at the Gaslight Cafe,
which was a real coffee house on MacDougal street
that opened in 1958 and closed in 1971.
It started off as a gathering space for beat poets,
but later became a prominent venue for folk music.
Midge Maisel is a young Jewish-American housewife
from an upper-class background.
Her spectacular wardrobe illustrates the specificity
of time of day and occasion dressing
that governed mid century fashion.
Midge is clearly a devoted follower of fashion.
In season three, we see her reading
the latest issue of Vogue,
a publication which costume designer Donna Zakowska cites
as a primary source of inspiration
for Midge's looks on the show.
At different points throughout the series
specific designers are referenced.
- Well, you look nice. Chanel?
- Jacques Fath. - New?
- Kind of.
- Like Jacques Fath, who was a prominent Parisian couturier
in the 1940s and '50s.
By the mid 20th century,
America had begun to develop its own fashion identity
with New York, and specifically the Garment District,
emerging as the center of clothing manufacturing
and distribution in the United States.
In seasons one and two,
we actually get a glimpse inside a clothing factory
owned by Midge's father-in-law,
which would have been one of many
that operated in the neighborhood.
In keeping with this tradition,
"Mrs. Maisel's" Emmy award-winning costumes were custom made
in New York's Garment District by Eric Winterling
and hats by Lynne Mackey.
- [Narrator] Thanks for that quick history, Raissa.
Now, let's get into these looks.
First up, daywear.
- This look appears in the show's pilot
set in 1958 just before Yom Kippur.
The costume can be best described
as an early fall daytime ensemble,
perfect for running errands around the city.
When "The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel" premiered
this quickly became one of the most recognizable ensembles
and established pink as the signature color
for both the character and the show.
- [Narrator] Let's draw this look layer by layer,
starting with the undergarments.
- Historically accurate undergarments
were absolutely essential in creating
the fashionable silhouette of the mid 20th century.
Actress Rachel Brosnahan credits
the tightly-fitted foundation garments
with informing the character's posture and body language.
To create the correct bust line for this look,
Midge could either be wearing a traditional brassiere
or a longline bra.
In either case, it would have pointed cups
which could be filled out using foam inserts
called falsies, if necessary.
Her panties would have been high-waisted,
full coverage briefs
with elastication in the waist and legs.
Smooth plain styles were worn under fitted pencil skirts,
while lacy or ruffled varieties were worn
under more voluminous skirts.
The fashionable silhouette of the 1950s hinged upon
the narrow waistline,
which was usually achieved using some form of shapewear.
- It's the bras, right?
[audience laughing]
It's the bras and the girdles and the corsets
all designed to cutoff the circulation to your brains.
- The most common type was the girdle,
which started above the natural waistline
and came down to about mid thigh.
This undergarments smoothed the torso and hips,
and had suspender garters at the bottom edge
to which stockings would be fastened.
Stockings were typically shear and made of nylon,
which greatly improved elasticity.
- [Narrator] Up next, the slip.
- [Raissa] The slip provided another undergarment layer
for smoothing and modesty.
They usually featured delicate decorative trimming
like lace, ruffles, and embroidery.
- [Narrator] That brings us to her dress.
- There were two prevalent silhouettes in 1950s fashion:
the hourglass fit and flare and the fitted pencil line.
In this look, Midge wears the latter
in the form of a slim sheath dress
with three-quarter length sleeves.
Like many garments from this period,
the design of the dress is clean and understated.
It features a notched collar with a bow at the center
and a couple of decorative buttons
covered in the same fabric as the dress.
The magenta hue is Midge's signature shade of pink,
which is repeated the series
and in the ad campaigns for each season.
- [Narrator] And now, that fabulous pink coat.
- Midge wears a mid-weight wool swing coat
in a pale shade of pink.
Unlike the dresses of this period,
this style of outer garment was unfitted
to accommodate all silhouettes.
Midge's coat features a shawl collar
and an inverted box pleat in the back.
At one point in the episode Midge says she paid full price
for the coat at Saks Fifth Avenue.
- Thank you for my coat.
I paid full price at Saks.
- [Raissa] She wears the coat again later in the episode,
over her nightgown when she drunkenly takes the stage
at the Gaslight Cafe.
- [Narrator] Let's move on to her hair and makeup.
- In this episode, we get to see
the full mid-century beauty ritual
through Midge's extensive evening and morning routines.
Midge sets her hair overnight using special curlers
called Spoolies, which were invented in the 1950s.
These were made of soft rubber
and were more comfortable to sleep in
than traditional rollers or pin curls.
In the morning, she brushes her spiral curls out
into her signature hairstyle consisting of a deep side part
and a soft wave with curled ends.
- [Narrator] Very cool. And the makeup?
- Midge's makeup routine begins
with a pressed powder foundation.
She wears black winged eyeliner and puts on false eyelashes
before presumably finishing off the eye with mascara.
Finally, she applies lipstick in a rosy shade of pink
to coordinate with the soft pink blush
that was fashionable during the period.
In the evening we see Midge remove her makeup
using cold cream
before applying an overnight moisturizing mask.
- [Narrator] Up next, the hat.
- [Raissa] Midge often wears a pillbox hat
throughout the series,
usually perched towards the front of her head
and tilted at an angle.
It is a style that would later become associated
with First Lady Jackie Kennedy
who famously wore ones designed by Halston.
This type of hat would typically be constructed
with a buckram base covered with fashion fabric.
It could also be made with stiffened wool or fur felt.
- [Narrator] Finally, the accessories,
starting with the gloves.
- [Raissa] Shorter gloves were worn during the day
and, depending on the season,
could be made of cotton, nylon, or wool.
Midge's gloves match the rich burgundy tone of her hat,
which was typical of the period.
- [Narrator] And the bag?
- [Raissa] Midge carries a square handbag
with a kiss lock top closure and a short handle
that allows it to be carried on the forearm.
- [Narrator] Finally, the shoes.
- [Raissa] Midge wears a low heeled gray pump
with a strap across the instep.
Accessories were often made to match
due to a practice called ensemble dressing
in which a woman's shoes, gloves, hat,
and purse all coordinated.
- [Narrator] So, here's what Midge would have looked like.
Pretty accurate.
Let's move on to evening wear.
- This look appears in the season one finale
and marks the defining moment where Midge fully embodies
her professional stage persona.
- My name is Mrs. Maisel.
Thank you and good night.
[audience cheering]
- The black cocktail dress becomes
her signature stage costume.
Just as the classic little black dress evolves
with each time period in the history of fashion,
Midge's performance ensembles shift in silhouette
over the course of the series.
This dress perfectly captures the essence of the character
and it has been deemed so culturally significant
that it's now in the permanent collection
of the Smithsonian's National Museum of American History.
- [Narrator] Wow, that's fabulous.
Now, let's break this look down layer by layer.
First up, the undergarments.
- For this look, Midge could be wearing a strapless
all-in-one undergarment called a merry widow
that combined the bra and the girdle.
A similar garments called the corselet could be laced
more tightly in the waist
while accentuating the bust line with additional padding.
Midge would also be wearing sheer nylon stockings,
which typically had a seam running vertically
down the back of the leg.
These would be fastened to the bottom of the merry widow
or held up by a separate garter belt.
- [Narrator] Let's move on to the petticoat.
- The fashionable fit and flare silhouette of the period
demanded of voluminous skirt.
In order to achieve the desired fullness,
one or more petticoats would be worn underneath the dress.
Though the petticoat was slightly shorter than the skirt
and not intended to be seen,
tiers of ruffles or lace often decorated the bottom edge
just in case it peaked out from under the hem of the skirt.
A white ruffled petticoat can be seen
when Midge takes the stage in her red evening dress
earlier in the season.
- [Narrator] And now, the dress.
- Midge's dress is almost an exact replica
of the one worn by Audrey Hepburn
in the 1954 film "Sabrina."
That black cocktail dress, along with two other ensembles,
were selected by Audrey herself
from the salon of Paris couturier Hubert de Givenchy.
The dress features bows at the shoulders
and a clavicle skimming boat neckline,
now also known as the Sabrina neckline.
The dress features a tightly fitted bodice,
belted waistline, and voluminous skirt.
This recognizable fit and flare silhouette
dominated 1950s fashion
following the debut of Christian Dior's new look.
Soon after, most Paris couturiers began designing
in the new look style
until it was prevalent at every level of the fashion system.
The falls below the knee,
which is a notable feature of a cocktail dress.
This type of semiformal evening garment became prevalent
in post-war fashion when the concept of the cocktail hour
was especially popular.
- [Narrator] Next up, her shoes.
- Midge wears a simple, elegant black pump
with a skinny heel.
It was during the 1950s that the stiletto
became a fashion staple.
This style was popularized by famed shoe designers
Salvatore Ferragamo, Roger Vivier, and Andre Perugia.
Previously, fashionable footwear featured a thicker heel.
However, technological advancements allowed for a steel rod
to support the weight of a daringly slender heel.
- [Narrator] Love a skinny heel.
And the next layer?
- [Raissa] Longer elbow-length gloves
were appropriate for evening.
They elevated any cocktail dress.
And for Midge, they added a touch of theatricality
to her performance ensemble.
- [Narrator] Moving on to hair.
- Salon visits were an alternative to overnight roller sets.
We see Midge and her mother getting their hair done
in season two.
This set could last as long as a week with proper care.
For evening, Midge's makeup is a bit more dramatic.
Note the bold shade of red lipstick.
Another one of her favorite shades is called
Cherries in the Snow by Revlon,
which she specifically recommends to a customer
at B. Altman.
- That's Raven Red. Try Cherries in the Snow.
- When the lipstick and coordinating nail polish
launched in 1953 it quickly became
one of Revlon's best selling shades
and is still sold in stores today.
- [Narrator] Anything else?
- Midge could accessorize her ensemble with a cocktail hat,
as she does at several points in the series.
This style of hat was reserved for evening wear
and was usually small, brimless,
and did not cover the entire head.
Cocktail hats tended to be rather extravagant
with whimsical decorative elements
such as beads, feathers, and netting.
- [Narrator] Let's finish with her jewelry.
- When Midge pulls the dress out of the closet,
her mother comments that the dress needs pearls.
A double strand pearl necklace completes the look,
along with coordinating pearl earrings.
Midge doesn't wear any other visible jewelry
during her performance,
but it would be fashionable to wear
a contrasting pearl bracelet
over a pair of black evening gloves.
- [Narrator] Love those pearls.
So here's what Midge would have looked like.
Once again, very accurate.
Next up, resort wear.
- This look appears in season two, episode four,
which takes place during the summer of 1959
at the Steiner Mountain Resort in the Catskills.
- We're going to Catskills!
- This was an area heavily populated
with summer resorts that were frequented
by New York City-dwelling Jewish families.
Summer at Steiner required an extensive wardrobe.
- What about picnic dresses?
We each have four. Should I bring them all?
- There may be four picnics.
- Just as we see of her sartorial habits in the city,
Midge has a specific ensemble
for each and every resort activity.
In this case, she wears play clothes
perfectly suited for boating on the lake.
Play clothes for adult women emerged as a category of dress
for active, sporting, or leisure activities.
The concept was popularized
by influential American designers like Claire McCardell,
who pioneered the American look
which placed equal emphasis on style and comfort.
Midge's ensemble bears all the hallmarks
of McCardell's sportswear sensibility.
In this episode, Rose wears a dress
modeled after one designed by Claire McCardell,
which was featured in the December 1952 issue of Vogue.
- [Narrator] I'm ready for the beach.
Let's break this look down starting with the undergarments,
or in this case the bathing suit.
- Midge could be wearing a standard bra and pair of panties
as undergarments with this look.
It would also be plausible for her to be wearing
a bathing suit while on the lake.
Earlier in the episode,
she wears a polka-dotted Mamie Van Doren-inspired two-piece,
which consists of a halter bikini top
and high waist brief bottoms.
- [Narrator] Okay, she's cute.
Next, the playsuit.
- Over the bathing suit,
Midge might be wearing a set of play clothes.
We can see a pair of green shorts peeking out,
which could be part of a set with a coordinating top,
or it could be the bottom half of a playsuit.
This was an all-in-one garment akin to a child's romper.
Very fashionable for beach and resort wear.
Midge's shorts fit close to the thigh,
but some varieties of playsuits featured puffed bottoms.
It was not unusual for a playsuit
to have an accompanying skirt, dress,
or cover-up made of the same fabric.
- [Narrator] Comfortable and chic.
Let's move on to the cover-up.
- Midge wears a belted wrap-front dress.
The skirt falls open as she sits in the rowboat,
a common feature of that style.
Coordinating pieces allowed for buttoned down skirts
or dresses to be worn open to reveal matching shorts
or capris underneath.
- [Narrator] Next, sandals.
- Midge is wearing summer sandals featuring an open toe
and a cork wedge heel.
Some sandals in this style also had laces
to wrap around the ankle.
Midge could also be wearing espadrilles.
These were a more casual summer shoe
with a cotton fabric upper
and a flexible sole made of jute rope.
- [Narrator] Moving on to the hat.
- [Raissa] Midge wears a lampshade hat made of straw.
Summer hats were typically made of straw
and came in a variety of playful shapes.
- [Narrator] And what about those handbags?
- To match her hat, Midge carries a casual straw handbag.
Straw purses were common travel souvenirs
and often incorporated names of faraway destinations,
along with embroidered floral motifs and seashells.
There was also a trend for novelty wicker handbags
shaped like animals.
These fun purses made great conversation pieces
and are highly collectible today.
- [Narrator] So this is what Midge would have looked like,
a near perfect match.
Good job, Donna.
Any final thoughts?
- Donna Zakowska's costumes for "The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel"
reflect a blend of styles from the mid 20th century.
Though the costumes in the show do not necessarily
recreate fashions for exact years,
the ones seen in the first two seasons
look closer to the earlier 1950s.
This is a strategic design choice that helps to create
a more discernible visual transformation
over the relatively short span of time
covered in the series.
As we saw, fashionable dress during this period
drew influence from both Parisian couture
and American sportswear.
The timeless styles seen on this show
have captivated a new generation of fashion lovers
and continue to be referenced in contemporary fashion.