what's up I'm Jonathan and welcome to maker tales where I'm sharing my maker
journey to help you go further in yours so don't forget to subscribe and hit
that old Bell icon to never miss an opportunity to keep making in this video
we're going to be unboxing assembling and doing the first print on the CR 10s
now that the CR 10 is out of the box what your wanting to do is find the tool
box inside of the tool box there's going to be many many things put them all off
to the side cus right this minute we are just interested in one bag that contains
the snips for safety and security the CR 10 s comes with zip ties all over it now
using your new snips cut all of these off with the z-axis freed now take off
the last of the packaging and let's move on to assembly before we continue along
with this video remember to use the instructions as things that may change
in the future having said that my first tip is to start with the T brackets
unlike the instructions say because this will make it much easier to align the T
nuts later on don't be fooled by the name as
in this bag contains the bolts that we will need to fix the z-axis to the body
later for now put those bolts to one side and let's get to know the T
brackets there is a left one and a right one the left one has the limit switch
keep that in mind now prepare your work area as things are going to get fiddly
keep in mind when you're lifting up the frame not to put pressure on the Z
screws wherever you place the frame back down put it down like this once your
work area is set grab your T brackets you're left in your
right now remember the backside of the printer has the motor on the back we're
gonna start on the left side but both of these are pretty much the same now grab
your bag of tools and get the allen keys out you may want to get the very little
allen key as that might come in handy and what's to come now say hello to the
t-nuts these things are a real pain as you need
them to turn clockwise 90 degrees to lock inside of the t bar put them
horizontally slot them in and turn the allen key to the right this may turn the
nut and that's it however if it doesn't jiggle about have a go use the small
allen key see if that gets them to twist in my case nothing was working in that
case what you do is you take it off take the t-nuts off and then put them in
manually one by one to do it manually you're gonna need pliers while you're
trying to achieve here is to get a tea nut at a 45 degree angle to then be able
to do the last little twist with the pliers now pliers aren't always needed
as you can see my second peanut was done by hand now space your t nuts
equally to fit the new T bracket onto your newly fitted t nuts this part is
crucial make sure that your t nuts are still vertical inside of the t bar if
they're not vertical you're going to have to go back a step and repeat until
this is done correctly tighten the bolts are securely fastened but still movable
do the exact same process on the other side and now move the t brackets close
to where the holes are where you're going to be attaching the gantry I've
loosen the two top nuts of each T bracket and place them horizontally to
make it a lot easier to put the top gantry on and making sure that they are
horizontal inside of the T slot now with the extruder facing you we are going to
slowly but surely put the Z gantry on top of the T brackets making sure that
the T nuts enter the t slots in a horizontal position this can be a bit
tricky and fiddly but once done just loosely tighten the bolts because we're
going to need a little bit of play for the next part it's now time to prepare
the bolts to attach your Z gantry to the base these are in that Miss named band I
showed you earlier from here carefully and still holding a
printer move your CR 10 just slightly off the table and slowly but surely move
the top gantry till the holes aline underneath and fix the bolts into the
bottom once you've done this to both sides you're almost there
just finish tightening up of T bracket screws to a reasonable
stiffness that's it for the main structural assembly now let's tackle
these wires thankfully creality have made this really easy by labeling every
single wire technically there's only two connections you need to worry about here
which is the four pin stepper motor connections and the three pin limit
switch connectors I would suggest following the
instructions for this as they've made it really simple to follow but in a
nutshell you look at the cable see the axis it's correlated to then find
where that motor is using the instructions plug it into the motor plug
it into the limit switch if there is a limit switch and that's it do that for
all the motors and limit switches and all that's left is the extruder and the
filament sensor which is this cable by the way which you don't have to plug in
if you don't want it quick tip keep in mind where these cables are going to be
placed in the future it might have to go under the frame while we're connecting
all these wires we might as well connect the Bowden tube just plug it in and make
sure it's secure by pulling this out you may have noticed I haven't told you how
to install the racing stripes that's because I can't deal with this and I'm
all about the pure sleek goodness finally we're just left with two power
cables one for the bed one for the head follow the instructions
you can't even plug these in wrong however one thing you can have very
wrong is having the voltage input wrong double-check this and double-check it
again because you can fry your motherboard
once you know your voltage input is set correctly get your power cable plug it
in and turn this beast on I'm not planning on going in too much detail
with the menus but this screen here is where you'll be able to realize if
anything is broken your thermostats should show zero at the top and
underneath that should show temperature of what it is naturally in
it is zero on the bottom and that means that the thermostat for your bed or your
head is broken I've kept the film on my bed this entire time to protect it more
than anything the first thing we need to do now is hit auto home this will then let
us move the axes to then be able to remove the bed once the printer is
home you'll be able to move the axes safely go into the move menus and move
the z-axis using the one millimeter setting upwards - then let you remove
the bed removing the bed is easy just move that
axis and then remove the clips take the bed off and take off the tape that's
underneath remove the film that's on it and here's where the controversy starts
I'm going to tell you not to put anything on your bed the main thing most
people are doing wrong here and why they have bad adhesion is because they don't
completely clean their bed before use
you may be tempted to use alcohol while washing the bed don't do this as it
leaves a layer of hydrocarbons on the surface which means that your adhesion
will be really bad on top of that make sure that your fingers never touch the
glass once it's being washed
now your bed is almost ready to be printed on it just needs to be leveled
grab yourself a piece of paper 0.1 millimeters thick I'm using the
instruction manual here go into the menus and find auto bed leveling what your
plan is here is to tighten and loosen the bed controls underneath the bed to
have the bed not to bite the paper but just feel the smallest amount of
friction each time you feel this hit next we'll go back into Auto leveling
and hit next step until you've done it to all the points now let's load some
filament the first step is to preheat the printer that's under settings PLA
preheat then we're going to put together the spool holder while it's heating up
the spool holder is easy there's two screws this metal part this plastic bit
twisted together put the spool on it then feed the filament through the
Bowden tube until it reaches the head at this point
weight to the PLA preheat gets up to temperature the same as the other move
settings go into one millimeter go to the extruder and just give it a couple
of millimetres to see that the filament is running smoothly once you see this
you know that the printer is working beautifully and it's now time to setup
your first print we're going to keep this as quick and simple as possible I'm
going to show you both cura and simplify 3d to start the model will be
printing is the 3d benchy as you'll learn the most from this print learn more
about it on the website down in the description now that you have your fiel
let's start with cura it's as simple as starting up the program telling it which
printer you have and then editing the settings to make it how you wish you
want to print for PLA I like to use 210 for the first layer or 215 and then for
the bed I like to use a temperature between 60 and 70 depending on the
ambient temperature once you're done in the prepare window head over to preview
from here just save it onto the micro SD and you're done in simplified 3d it's
pretty much just the same tell it that you are using our CR 10s and from there
drop in the benchy change any settings that you want in the processors so back
to 210 and 70 or 60 to the bed and then just save out the file
now you truly are on the last leg all you have to do is plug in the microSD
move into the bottom menu to load up the SD find your file and hit go from there
just enjoy your print printer once your print is printed the best
practice is to hit cool down let it all cool down
plate / bed and all then take your plate off and then use up the lovely included scraper
to just slide it under the print it should just pop right off and lo and
behold you have now unbox setup and done you're first print there you
guys have it that's how to put together a co 10s and how to get your first print
out of it and remember keep making a
and let the quest continue