okay YouTube so I've got the meter hooked up I've got the line and neutral from the very act
which is back inside hooked up to the line and neutral terminals on the meter and then I have
the line and neutral wires from the load which are the two outlets are hooked to the outside two
terminals and then I have my power supply wire either there's my power supply wire coming off
the constant 120 volt tap let's go over here and we'll turn this on I've got zero volts zero amps
zero watts zeroes are good that's what I wanted to see is all zero now I can turn up the voltage
there's one two five Tim you can turn the voltage all the way up there's no no glitches anywhere
current stays at zero power stays at zero I can keep going it's like that's the maximum 166 volts
yeah no current no what that's what I wanted to see all zeroes so I think that is a success
so let me get that everything shoved in there I'm gonna make sure I can shove the meter all the way
in the hole I haven't done that yet with there's two side clips so I might have to do a little bit
of a filing to get those to fit in there I'll show you what it looks like when I get it all
buttoned up here okay we've got the meter plugged in there took a little bit extra filing to get it
to fit in the opening there and everything works so reading zero is really nice but I guess I need
to check out how this meter reads how accurate is it so what I have is this is an amp probe it's
there II ls2 a so clamp meter accessory I think is what they call it pretty handy little gadget
here it's got a power plug on this and and it's got a receptacle on that end and what it does is
it brings the lot the line conductor your hot wire through here in this x1 loop and you can
run a clamp meter through there and get a x one reading and then over here they actually have ten
loops of wire and that's the X 10 loop and you get a ten times current reading so let me plug that in
I've got the cord here plugged into my light bar and I've got a 60 watt incandescent bulb and you
can see there we've got about 60 watts half an amp and then I've got my little leakage clamp meter
it'll measure down to 2 amps down to the milliamp range so two amps full scale down to one milliamp
and we'll plug that here in the x1 okay I think that'll work so right now it's reading 400 no
actually for 98 million and this meter is reading half an amp so let's go down we can go down and
voltage to drop the current see if we can get down to where it just switches to four-tenths and there
we go we got 400 milliamps that one's reading 401 I think that's pretty good let's go down to
300 milliamps so go down to 0.3 and there we're reading 302 that looks pretty good and go down to
2/10 which is 200 milliamps and there we go it's reading 196 199 actually I guess this one jumped
up it's it's a little hard down here because at the lower current the light bulb starts cooling
off yeah we got 200 milliamps 196 we'll get down here let's go down to 100 so there's 100 point one
and here we're reading 104.7 won't for point eight and then just for grins here we can switch over to
I'll show you the x10 reading here so what this does is it multiplies the reading by 10 so this
one is showing what about 106 milliamps so that's when the meter is reading one point zero six but
you have to divide that by 10 yeah 106 and this one is reading 110 so it looks like it's within
you know half a digit here on the low end and you can see the volt meter there disi volts on
that meter there's a hundred volts I go up a little bit there's a hundred on the meter and
if I go over here to the 150 so yeah this meter is fairly accurate to these two meters still work
normally and then I have the have the digital meter can read power and amps and watts yeah so
you just need to make sure if you're doing this modification that the the voltage you're powering
the meter width has a shared neutral with the load for instance I couldn't have my load isolated and
try to power the meter off of the non isolated input power because this input power is isolated
from the output power and if I hooked up this line over here there's no return path for the
current that would power this meter so it would be like you were just trying to use one wire to
power the meter because that neutral connection is built in there anyway that's the one thing
that you have to watch for is once you break that power connection inside the meter you're
now assuming that there's a shared neutral connection and you have to get that neutral
connection hooked up properly if there isn't a shared neutral this won't work you're going
to have to power the meter off of the voltage that you're sensing though anyway if you have
any questions about that post up in the comment section below and as always thanks for watching