This is all the equipment you need
to draft a block from your measurements
A sharp pair of scissors
A tape measure
A metre rule or a Yard Stick as we used to call it
Sharp Pencils
A rubber
And most importantly, a nice large set square
A normal ruler is handy
A ruler like this is quite popular
but not by any means essential
I buy my pattern paper on a big fat roll
it lasts a very long time if you are serious
about drafting your own patterns
But you can buy sheets by the pack
It can be marked off in inches or every 2½cm
I prefer plain paper
Brown paper will do
Some people use newspaper
although I wouldn't recommend it
Here are the measurements you need
for the Basic Bodice Block
I'm purposely not using a standard size
as this is the whole point of drafting a block to fit
So first of all you need the measurement
around the fullest part of the Bust
This rises a little at the back
This measurement will also be used
to determine some of the variables
The true Waist - not too tight
The hip measurement is usually taken
about 8 or 9" below the waist
but it must be where the widest measurement is
and take a note of how far down from the waist it is
The Back Waist Length
From the bone at the nape of the neck to the waist
Being a petite person myself
I have always appreciated how important
this measurement is
Getting it right will solve so many fitting problems
Then Chest Width
Now this measurement will make or break your block
and you may need to experiment
if you get it wrong first time
It is taken from about 4½ - 5"
from base of neckline standing nice and straight
The Back Width
This measurement is taken 4 - 4½"
from the nape of the neck
don't stand quite so erect
as you want to allow for a certain amount of stooping
with comfort
Shoulder Length
From neck to the edge of the bone on the shoulder
Around Upper Arm
Around the fullest part of the arm
with the tape measure in the armpit
Print off my PDF sheet
and fill in your measurements
If you have doubts about any measurements
use the one closest to the standard size
for your bust and hips
My PDF guide contains details of variables
that are dependent on size
So cut a piece of paper 30" long
and half hips (or bust, which ever is larger)
wide + 3" or so
Rule a line along the length
1" or so from the left edge
This is centre back
Square off a line across the top of the page
This is the Top Line
Label Centre Back line CB
For our Centre Front line
you want to measure at least half bust plus 2-3"
or half hips plus 1½"
which ever is the larger
but you can draft this line further away if you like
The important thing is that you want to avoid
the back and front bodice overlapping
So label this line CF for Centre Front
So here I show an initial rectangle
of half hips plus 3" wide
and at least as long as Back Waist Length plus 10"
which will be a bit longer than the final block
This gives a good bit of room
Mark down 1" from the Top Line
this increases to 1.5" for sizes over Bust 38"
Check for variables in my PDF guide
Draw this about a 3rd of the way across
Call this O
Using your own Back Waist measurement
mark down from O for the Waist Line
and square across to the CF Line
this is the provisional waist position
Label WP
Then measure 8.25" from O for the Bust Line
which is also the bottom of the Armhole
This figure varies depending on Bust by 1/4"
for every 2" size outside the 34-36" range
So bust 36" would be 8.5" down
A 38" bust line would be 8 3/4" down from O
Again check the PDF Guide for variables
Continue this line across to CF
Then mark half this measurement down
for the Back Line
and rule less than half way across
Label BL for the Bust Line and label the Back Line
The shoulder line is 1.5" below O
This is the same for all sizes
Square across and label the Shoulder Line SL