in this presentation we're going to look at fitting a drylined box into a drylined wall
sometimes called a stud wall you use the skills in order to fit that into the wall to facilitate
a new socket this presentation isn't about wiring the socket it's purely about cutting the box into
the stud wall itself with drylined wall whatever you want to call it so this box cut into this
wall okay I'm going to look on the other side and see how we're going to make sure that we
don't clash with any of the struts we can't see any of the upright supports they are metallic in
this installation but we can't see we presume this one here to hold the frame we presume they'll use
a 400 mm gap but we need to be a little bit more precise because it's not kind of hole in the wall
that potentially will hit one of those struts and obviously be them down so I didn't have to
be patched in the box been moved so when I look on the other side of wall and see how we can work out
we're going to put it this side of the wall not to clash with any of those struts so I'll come
to this side of the wall where the socket this on the ring final circuit is gonna have the spurred
socket on the other wall run from it I've isolated the socket here use the safe isolation procedure
is discussed in a previous video presentation it's off and isolated I've removed the box from
the wall so I can work out where the nearest strut is or up right to this socket outlet itself so if
we insert something rigid in this case the 2.5 cable will be perfect until it hits the side of
the strut so we've got it there hit the strut that far away if I use my socket outlet on the floor
I can put back down into position as if that was the upright and then I can work out 400 which is
roughly the gap they leave between the uprights I can work out my 400 so between there roughly 400
position what box like so the constant being the doorframe this side our next side we can go and
we can see at for me that's about 750 ml to the box the middle of the box should be here which
should be free from the strut here and free from the strut there we still don't know it is so I'm
going to be careful when we start marking out on the other side but we make sure there is no strut
or crossmember in there that could clash with the box but it's a safe bet we're gonna be in a good
area there 750 in this case from the door frame it's a bedroom that requires the additional twin
socket outlet and I'm going to measure 750 off the door this case comes to roughly about here
and the socket outlets in this installation are at a height of 450 millimetres to the bottom to
allow for people of limited reach so complying with the latest standards of the regulation so
I'm going to install my socket in here but I've kind of confirmed first of all when I mark round
my box that there is no other obstacles that could clash with the box when it enters the wall
position my box on the wall at the correct height to the bottom of socket and this 750 measurement
for me for hopefully missing the strikes itself I've checked each square can take a pencil and
just draw around the box itself make sure you have the box to the right way round there is a raised
flange on the front edge if you were to cut around that that would give you some massive issues I'll
show you that in a sec so I've drawn around the back of the box not to draw around the front the
other way around obviously we want a nice tight fit when the box goes in itself so I've got my
square drawn out now I've got to confirm that I can take that out so I really do hopefully take
up the square for the box or itself to support take my braddell to start with and I lit some
holes in here to confirm they go into the wall and therefore not clashing then these struts it could
be behind corner okay so I put a series of holes there to confirm there is no metalwork supporting
the plasterboard in those areas however that's not enough it could be I'm unlucky and the strut
is actually this side or potentially this side for the uprights when these boxes go in they've
got a solid flat this side flap is the one that needs to be okay protruding from the box itself
so it would actually sit there to hold it against the plaster board if it hits a strut obviously we
can't put those in and the box is in a position that's useless so we would have to completely
move in with cut it out now so we don't want to do that so what I'm going to do is take along the
thin screwdriver and I'm going to just insert it so I can put it in a name and go sideways
I was going in sideways so I know I'm clear in that direction the likewise I'm gonna take one
this way and go sideways as well so I've got it clear both sides as well now that I can actually
cut out the box itself we're certainly not going to be attacking it with a fixed blade knife I've
seen some presentations but carving away with a fixed blade you're gonna be doing that that's
how you slip and cut yourself or make a mess of the wall itself so we're going to use the
design tool which is a pad saw okay in order to cut out the box itself I've got to make one of
these holes bigger in order just to get the tip of my pad saw in and I'm just doing gently cut
out the box I like the box be nice and tight so sometimes when I've cut out it doesn't quite fit
in to start with and just have to shave it back that's not a problem well I don't want to do is
cut it beyond the lines and make it a lot bigger so the box obviously moves around we don't want
that so it's so lets open up one of these holes and instead of cutting process itself so an open
up one of the holes okay I can open of the holes with a screwdriver and you go to the screwdriver
and then just take my pad saw and run round the lines i've got just take your time no rush
the moment of truth drop it out fingers go that way fingers go that way and we haven't here any
of the struts was we didn't see there when I was cutting out the box was the fact that
wearing a pair of goggles wearing a dust mask I'm very important to keep ourselves safe and
I worn both during that part of presentation so box is ready to go in I've taken out the
two side clips which will facilitate the 3.5 box screws box slips into position and then
we simply just I say simply but we replace the side clips the case they pull forward lock in
the box in so when the socket front goes on the yellow side clip will pull up and pin between the
plasterboard this side and the actual box and the plasterboard this side and the actual box
to hold it firmly into position this is a level 2 assessment piece and is required to be done under
examination conditions for us in a workshop so let's run over the skills required to fit
a dryline box into a dryline wall so they've done very often on site with the the faster new builds
are going up like a lot of internal walls are now our dry line walls and these boxes are readily
fitted in the industry so that skills required for a level 2 assessment there's some help