Welcome back to the Gentleman's Gazette!
Today's video is all about summer suits.
We'll discuss the details, the fabrics, the accessories you can wear with them, the construction
methods, and everything you need to know to stay cool in a suit when it's hot outside.
Have you ever wondered how some people can wear a suit when it's stifling hot outside?
Well, not all suits are created equal and some have a lot more airflow and a lot cooler
than others.
Why is that?
You may wonder.
Actually, there are a number of factors.
Most importantly, there's the fabric and the interlining.
If you have a jacket with a glued interlining, it will insulate you much more, it will not
breathe and as a consequence, you will overheat much more quickly.
Also, the kind of material, the weave, as well as the weight, all have an impact on
how cool or warm it feels.
So first up, let's talk about specific summer fabrics that you can look for when opting
for a summer suit or suit for really hot climates.
First, let's talk about the seersucker.
It's an all-time American classic and it usually comes in a stripe of white and blue.
It's a very fine stripe and it's very popular in the southern United States and it's made
from a twisted yarn.
It's a very fine highly twisted cotton yarn that creates a puckering effect in the cloth.
To learn more about the intricacies of this material, I suggest you check out our in-depth
seersucker guide on our website here.
In a nutshell, that crinkle effect is achieved by tightening certain warped yarns more than
others.
The crinkle is permanent and can't be ironed out but as a consequence, it doesn't wrinkle
otherwise, so it's very wrinkle resistant which makes it also a great travel suit, it's
perfect for garden parties, summer weddings or just hot days when you're in the southern
US.
I really enjoy the classic blue and white seersucker because you can combine it very
easily; you can just have the seersucker pants combined with a blazer or just the seersucker
jacket combined with different pants.
It enhances your wardrobe, it's a very lightweight material.
I also like seersuckers in other colors such as a white and beige stripe which is nice
for summers because it's a very light color so it reflects the sunlight and doesn't absorb
it.
If you're looking for more of a business suit, you can also get seersucker that is basically
solid Navy which is a very nice alternative.
Unfortunately, it's something you usually have to get custom-made because it's often
not readily available off the rack unless maybe you find it at places like Polo Ralph
Lauren or other who specialize in summer suits.
Even when you don't wear a suit, you can wear your seersuckers with a polo shirt or just
a dress shirt and it's overall a very versatile summer staple.
So if you haven't checked out the guide already please do so here.
The second summer fabric I recommend is a fresco.
It's a term coined by Minnis which is a British Weaver and they have them in their lineup.
They have many different colors typically summer colors in lighter weights and heavier
weights.
Here, you can see me wearing a green suit, it's a medium weight, I'd say about 10 to
12 ounces, and it is a mottled fabric, meaning the color is not just a solid green but it
contains many different tones of green and because of that, it's easy to combine with
things and it's just a very harmonious look that works well with summer.
At first, it may seem contradictory that wool can be an ideal fabric for summer but in fact,
if the weave is right and with a fresco, you get a weave that's also a higher twisted yarn
which means it doesn't wrinkle very easily.
Wool doesn't wrinkle easily to begin with but it also has a very open weave, because
of that, you usually find it in strong colors, not just solids but mottled colors because
they help camouflage the fact that it's a very open weave.
The more open the weave, the more likely you are going to feel any kind of breeze and airflow.
In fact, when I wear this suit and it gets slightly too cold, it gets chilly very quickly
because I can feel it in my pants, and my chest, my back, and on my arms.
When you hold it against a light source, you can clearly see through it and you can see
the shadow through it and because of that, it's very breathable.
Because it's a twisted worsted yarn, it's not a soft fabric, it doesn't have a cashmere-like
feel and at first, if you touch it in a cloth book, you may be turned off by the cloth but
don't be fooled!
This is a wonderful fabric for summer suits.
Traditionally, fresco fabrics were heavier more in a 14 to 15 ounce range and the advantage
was that they really hung nicely and draped beautifully.
Today, the Huddersfield Weaver Minnis also offers much lighter options all the way down
to eight ounces which are not just lightweight but also open weave which makes for an ultimate
summer suit.
Personally, I own a bunch of fresco suits.
I have this green one, I have a kind of petrol one, and I also have a light gray one.
Of course, it also comes in shades of navy, blue, charcoal, and anything else under the
sun and it's mostly a solid although sometimes, you can also find patterns.
For more information, check out the Minnis fresco book.
The third popular material for summer suits is linen.
It is derived from the flax plant and it can be made stiffer or softer.
Typically, Irish linen is a little more stiff whereas Italian linen is rather soft.
It naturally has a very long staple that is much longer than cotton rather natural fibers
and because of that, it's very resistant to abrasion.
It also has extremely heavier wrinkles, and they create a very sophisticated unique look.
They wrinkle differently than cotton does but I find that it looks very elegant and
classy especially in a summer suit.
Let's say probably the tobacco brown linen summer suit is a favorite when by many elegant
men around the world.
It naturally has a fresh and cool feel and sometimes the weave can be very tight and
when it's heavy, it can be actually quite insulating.
It looks very summery but you can still feel quite warm.
Because of that, I currently do not have a linen suit in my lineup, maybe I'll add one
in the future but at present, I don't have one.
The fourth material often used for summer suits is cotton.
Most of the time, it comes in lighter colors for summer such as khaki.
Unfortunately, it often comes in very tight weaves just as twill or gabardine which doesn't
make it very breathable.
It also wrinkles very easily but unlike linen, it just looks non-ironed whereas linen wrinkles
look sophisticated.
Because of that, I think cotton alone is best blended with linen, maybe silk, because that
way, it has different properties, it doesn't wrinkle as cheaply, it looks better, and most
importantly, you can have a more open weave which is more advantageous to staying cool
in the summer
The fifth summer suit option you have is a very lightweight worsted fabric called tropical.
The tropical is softer than a fresco but the weave is not as open.
At the same time, it's very lightweight and it's specifically designed for warm weather.
Sometimes you can also find it with the addition of mohair which is a little crisper, it adds
more wrinkle resistance, it also adds a tiny bit of shine but at the same time, it feels
cooler when you wear it.
Of all the terms mentioned here, Off the rack suit manufacturers are most likely to go with
a lightweight worsted wool because it's widely available, it's relatively inexpensive, and
it is mass-market approved.
So choosing the right material for a summer suit is only one part of the equation.
You always want to choose the right style and the right color.
Because it's the summer and everything is lighter, you can have brighter colors and
get away with a green suit that otherwise you couldn't wear in the winter.
If you want a shade of navy or gray intentionally opt for something lighter in color which underlines
the summery character.
Alternatively, you can opt for beiges, khakis, browns, these are all ideal summer
colors.
Of course, you can also go with patterns but instead of a Glen check in black and white,
you maybe go with something in gray and white which just makes everything more lively and
summery.
If you want the ultimate summer suit, go with a single-breasted silhouette never double
breasted because the dual layers of fabrics will make you wear much warmer.
Stylistically, some people prefer patch pockets because they're more casual but keep in mind,
it's an extra layer of fabric which is why having jetted or flap pockets is just fine.
On the inside of your suit, you can go with a half-lined jacket which means the back is
not lined at all thus allowing more air to flow through and reach your skin.
You also want to stay clear of a glued canvas and instead, go with a sewn interlining.
To better understand the intricacies and differences, please check out this video here where I explain
all the differences and why the sewn interlining or canvas is so much better than the glued
one.
When I traveled to Naples where it gets quite hot, I saw tailors creating suit jackets and
pants that were completely unlined.
Now while that maximizes the airflow especially on your shirt sleeve, it will likely catch
and the line won't be as smooth as if you keep your sleeves lined, maybe the shoulder,
you just leave the back unlined.
Now, of course, the suit is only one part of your summer outfit.
Ideally, you pair it with a very open weave or a very lightweight cotton shirt.
That way, you don't overheat so quickly.
Some people have issues with sweat stains on their suit and in that case, you can wear
an undershirt underneath your shirt which doesn't make you cooler but it absorbs the
sweat and keeps you from embarrassing moments, however, if you want to stay cool, skip the
undershirt.
Also, make sure you have button cuffs also known as barrel cuffs and I personally like
to wear them unbuttoned because having an extra airflow under my wrists makes me feel
cooler.
Because you're wearing a suit, the overall outfit is much better with some form of neckwear
but instead of wearing a regular necktie that covers the middle part of your torso, a bow
tie wears a lot cooler because it just covers your neck.
If you want to go with a tie, maybe invest in a lightweight knit tie which has a very
open knit and therefore, a better airflow.
In terms of shoes, you can underline the summery character and either get spectators, maybe
some perforated shoes that allow more air flow, or something with woven leather that
I'm wearing here right now.
Even if you decide not to go with any form of neckwear, I always suggest to have a pocket
square because it immediately upgrades the overall
appearance of your suit.
Because it's summer, it's also fun to add a boutonniere lapel flower to your outfit
and that could be something like a cornflower, maybe a poppy, or anything else that you find
on the side of the road.
The problem is in the summer, those flowers wilt extremely quickly in your lapel and just
look bad.
Because of that, I designed my own boutonnieres that stay fresh all the time and look like
the real deal.
you can check out our full selection in our shop here.
Another great all-time summer accessory is the Panama hat and you can learn more about
it in our Panama hat guide here.
When it comes to socks, a gentleman always has over the calf socks, however, if that's
too hot for you, you can also try to go with no-show socks.
The problem with most of them is that over the course of the day, they come off
your feet and if you have a leather-lined shoes, it becomes rather uncomfortable.
Either go with over the calf socks that stay up and make your feet feel comfortable or
opt for no-show socks that don't come off your feet.
At the end of the day, a good summer suit will only wear ever so slightly hotter than
a polo shirt or a t-shirt but it's a lot more stylish and elegant.
You just have to choose the right one, make sure they have the right fabric with the proper
interlining in a single-breasted silhouette and you'll be on your way.
if you enjoyed this video make sure to check out our other guides about summer fabrics
and things you can wear in the summer such as summer accessories seersuckers madras and
other things that help you to stay cool in summer.
if you subscribe to our channel, stuff like this comes right to your inbox and in today's
video I'm wearing a typical summer suit it has this nice mottled green color in a fresco
was custom made by a A Caraceni I picked it up years ago for under $100 and I'm still
wearing it obviously it is a vintage garment but because of the classic details the lapel
width and everything you can't really date it it's very unusual color for suit usually
you only see it as sport coats and because of that I really like it because it makes
my outfit unique it's a wonderful suit for cocktail parties or anything where you don't
require extremely formal clothing when it's hot outside I am combining it with a very
lightweight shirt from Siniscalchi it's so thin that sometimes my chest hair even pokes
through but it's that lightweight fabric that makes me feel cooler when it's hot outside
of course I also skipped the cufflinks and go with a barrel cuffs that I often wear unbuttoned
my socks are green and brown shadow stripe ones from Fort Belvedere that pick up the
green color and tie together my cognac Brown woven leather wing tip shoes which is beautiful
for the summer because they provide a lot of contrast they have a warm tone as well
as the casual woven texture the bow tie is a summery shantung silk with a green stripe
that ties your outfit together because it has green tones as well as brown tones my
pocket square is silk printed in England with a blue and brown Paisley and my boutonniere
is a very pastelly light blue corn flower which is also from Fort Belvedere and you
could find it in our shop here