G'day and welcome back to Buildsum and this is the fourth video in this series on building a deck and
so far we've
Now got the bearers in and we've worked out our spacing for our piers in this direction
So now we're gonna work out spacing for our piers in this direction. And I mean, I always try and keep it the same
So we had a 1,500 spacing this way. So we're gonna try and maintain a 1,500 spacing this way
so again, we have to get back to our span tables and
Here's the table we were using for our bearers I keep going down there's actually two different tables
for our joists what they've done it two different ways one is
using a common span
So we can come down here
And we can just go OK. I want 1500. I want MGP10 because that's when my bearers are made out of
So for 1500 MGP10
I can use 90 x 45 as my joist
And that'll get me my 1500 span. Okay, and you can do that
Sorry, that's for a single span at
450mm spacing if I wanted to continuous span
1500
Still 90 x 45, so I'm pretty happy with using 90 x 45
for my joists, the other table
Is a little bit different if we actually go up here
we can see if I wanted to go 90 x 45 in my
MGP 10
where is it 90 x 45
so it's MGP10 it's saying a span of
1400
So it must be a little bit that's for a single span and for a continuous span
90 x 45 I can get 1700 out of it
So if you wanted to with 90 x 45 you could go up to a span of 1700
All right, but as I said, I want to keep my piers pretty much the same
So I'm gonna run with a 1.5m span and you can lessen that to suit the width of your deck
It doesn't really matter you pick the timber that you think is the most
economical for your actual situation
Okay, the other thing to remember is when we framing up we have to make sure that we keep
the bearers away from the building and it's not so bad in this case because they've actually put in a
Row of piers off the building and we're gonna cantilever up to the wall
All right, but if you were to put in
What they call engaged piers
All right, you would have to make sure
That you had at least 25mm in here
So that the termites can't cross that gap without being seen and get into the building
And the other problem with doing engaged piers you have to dig down to your original footing hopefully there's enough
Footing left to put the pier on
Otherwise you'd have to be bulking up the footing as well. So
it's not a very common method more common to use the
Just feel the piers off the wall. Put them on their own footing
Okay, and then that way your bearer is gonna be a long way off the wall when we put our joists in
as
You can see here on this end
we had
About a 400mm or 500mm cantilever allowable. This would only be a couple 100mm maybe 300mm
So that's quite allowable and we make sure that they finish
25mm from the from the wall. It's not kind of make any difference for their deck
It's not gonna look bad because our actual decking boards can finish it a little bit closer
But it just gives us that separation for termites
Okay
just let thatfFix itself up
Yeah, that's a 25mm
Okay, so in the next video we'll look at the next step and
Getting our decking boards down and completing the deck
G'day, I'm back
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