Painting walls can bring new life to a room.
Preparation is just as important as choosing the right colour.
My name's Frank and I'll be taking you through the three easy stages of painting your walls.
Anyone can do it, so let's get started.
Make sure you clean off any stains or marks to avoid them showing through the new paint.
For a previously painted wall, wear gloves and use sugar soap wipes to clean it.
Look for spots and stains to scrub away and remove dust that has settled along skirting boards.
Wipe over the wall again with a clean cloth to ensure it's dry.
The next step in preparing your surface is to make sure you remove any loose or flaking paint by scraping.
Just make sure you're wearing the appropriate safety gear.
Position the drop sheet over the floor and against the wall.
Put on your safety glasses and a dust mask.
Hold the paint scraper at about 45 degrees and use it to smooth over any rough patches or flaking
and cracked paint.
Make sure you go over any picture hook holes, plasterboard joints, and previous paint drips.
You'll need a stable ladder to reach the high spots.
Work gap filler into any cracks, chips, or scratches feathering around the edges.
A fast-drying, pre-mixed one is a good choice.
They're easy to use and you don't have to worry about getting the consistency right.
Let your filler dry completely, then pop on your dust mask, your safety glasses.
Get your 120-grit sandpaper ready on a sanding block to smooth away any edges.
Run your hand over the filled sections to feel for any bumps, and sand until smooth and even.
Fill any gaps with a multi-purpose flexible gap filler.
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Follow with a damp cloth to wipe off any excess while pushing the filler into the corners.
You're aiming for a smooth finish here.
Dust down the walls with a soft bristle broom just to remove any dust.
There's your wall prepped and now, we're ready to undercoat our paint.
When it comes to painting, preparation is the key.
We use an undercoat, especially on new surfaces but also to give us a nice
smooth surface for the paint to adhere.
For some hard-to-remove stains, you can buy a specialised stain-blocking primer or
generally a primer-sealer undercoat will also do the job.
And make sure you mask off any areas that you don't want to paint, such as your light switches, the door,
and window frames.
Now that we've done our preparation, I'm just going to show you some of the basic tools that
you're going to need for a good paint job: a good quality angle cutter.
Now, these are great because they cut around your light switches, your skirting boards, and your cornices,
a roller for a smooth surface.
And make sure that the roller actually fits the roller frame which then fits the roller tray.
An extension pole.
And this will help you paint your walls nice, and easy, and smoothly because you'll be able to roll all the way
from your corners down to your skirting board.
And, of course, always make sure to stir your paint and your primer before any job.
Ensure you have even coverage before reloading your roller and covering the next section.
Now that we've finished our undercoating, allow it to dry thoroughly.
and then you can repeat the process with our finishing coats.
And really, that's all you need to know about undercoating.
After your undercoat has dried, it's time to apply your finishing coat.
Make sure you've prepared the surface properly and then choose the right type of finishing coat for the area
that you're painting.
There are different types of paints depending on the surface that you're painting.
Generally, we would use a water-based paint for our ceilings, and our walls,
and then an oil-based or a water-based enamel for our trims, such as our architraves, skirtings, doors,
and door frames.
This is tougher and wipes down easier, is longer wearing.
If you're planning on painting your ceilings as well as your walls, try and choose a good
quality ceiling paint.
It's got less spatter and less drip, and it's got a nice, even,
flat finish designed for hiding surface imperfections.
A litre of paint will usually cover about 16 square meters but if the surface is porous or textured,
you may need to allow up to 20% more for similar coverage.
To determine how much paint you're going to need, read the directions on the back of the can from the
paint manufacturer or check out the paint calculator on the Bunnings website.
Use an angled brush to paint around power points, switches, doors or window frames,
around the edges of the wall, under the cornice, and into the corners.
This is called cutting in and, basically, means painting anywhere a roller can't reach
neatly or easily.
Try and cut in as close as you can to the masking tape with nice even strokes and then feather the paint back
out into your wall and you're ready for rolling.
Rollers are a quick way to cover large areas like walls and ceilings while avoiding leaving brush strokes.
Keep the tray on the drop cloth close to where you're working to avoid drips.
Dip your roller into the pool side of the paint tray, loading up a generous amount of paint,
then take off your excess by gently rolling it down the ribs of the roller tray so that you
get good, even coverage.
Start rolling the wall about a roller width out from the edge to avoid leaving a thick line of paint.
Try and take the roller as close as you can to the ceiling and skirting board without actually painting
the ceiling or the skirting board.
Once the paint is spread evenly and the coverage starts to thin out and the roller starts to dry,
this is when you know you have to reload your roller.
After you've applied your first coat.
Allow it to dry thoroughly, then you're going to apply your second coat.
And in between coats, to stop the paint drying on your paint roller,
pop it inside a plastic bag.
Take off the painter's tape as soon as you're finished.
If you leave it until the paint is completely dry, it can lift the fresh paint.
To remove the tape, hold the end and peel it away from the wall at a 45-degree angle to prevent smudging.
And there you have it, a freshly painted wall.
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