Hey everyone. Welcome back to the Fuji Guys channel. My name is Gord.
The Fujifilm X-T3 is available a couple different ways; including the
all-black version or, my personal favorite, the silver and black. Rather
retro inspired. However, inside is where you'll find a lot of the performance
happening with the Fujifilm XT 3. In this video I'm going to spend a little bit of
time talking about some of the top features of the camera set it up and
show you how to take advantage of some of those features. If you want to find
out more, keep on watching.
The X-T3 offers a number of different options
when it comes to continuous shooting or burst shooting. You can go anywhere
between 3.0 frames per second, up to 30 frames per second. You can choose a
mechanical shutter and go anywhere between 3.0 frames per second and up
to 11 frames per second. Unlike previous models, you don't need to
have the optional booster grip or battery grip attached to the X-T3 to
take advantage of 11 frames per second. This is done using the mechanical shutter.
In electronic shutter, you can go up to 30 frames per second. Here's how you get
into those different modes. To choose one of the burst modes between 3.0 frames
per second and up to 5.7 frames per second, you turn the
command dial to CL. Move down to the camera icon to the setting to drive
setting and to go to CL Low-Speed Burst. You can choose anywhere between 5.7
frames per second, 5.0 frames per second, 4.0 frames per second
or three 3.0 per second. Alternately, if you turn the command dial to CH mode, you
then have a choice between 8.0 frames per second or 11 frames per second when
you're in the mechanical shutter. To take advantage of the faster frame rates you
first need to change the camera into using the electronic shutter. This is
done on the same camera menu and you scroll down to shutter type. Change from
mechanical shutter to electronic shutter. This will open up the other options when
it comes to the high frame rates for burst. Then you go back to that camera
setting and then go back to the drive setting and you then choose
the CH high-speed setting this opens up the other options. You can shoot 20
frames per second, full frame and have no blackout when you're shooting up that 20 FPS.
If you're wanting to, then you can go
one step further and with a 1.25x crop you can choose
either 10, 20 or 30 frames per second burst modes. Depending on the parameters
you have the camera setup for whether you're capturing RAW or JPEG as well as
the speed of your card will determine how long your burst rate will go for.
The X-T3 offers phase detect autofocus. This is a much faster autofocus system
than contrast only. There's over two million photo diodes directly on the
sensor which offers very accurate autofocus when using phase detect and it
actually covers 100% of the image area. You can choose between 117 focus points
when you're in single focus point mode or upwards of 425 focus points. Let me
show you how you go in the various modes. Powering the camera on, by default when you
push up on the 4-way D-Pad you choose between single point or you
choose zone or you choose wide tracking or there's all. Let's take a look at a
single point first. Within there if I push the menu button and I scroll down
to autofocus manual focus, on page 1 I can see that there are now either 117 or
I can select it and choose upwards of 425 autofocus points. When I push in on
the joystick I actually have able to choose any one of those 425 points. Once
I've made my selection I push "OK" again. If I just use the joystick directly, I
can move my focus point anywhere on the canvas that I'm looking to have my
accurate autofocus. If I push in on the the joystick again I can choose and
rotate between five different sizes of single autofocus point areas and then
once I've made my choice I just hit the "Menu/OK" button.
Let's look at some of the other options. If I change it to zone focus and I push in on
the joystick I have a choice of three different sized auto focus areas and I
can move that auto focus area anywhere within there and the within the frame
that is and now the camera will automatically decide where within that
green square I'm able to have my auto focus area. Pushing 'up' on the d-pad again
I can choose Wide Tracking that selects the entire canvas area for my
auto focus points and the camera will determine what is
the best autofocus point to be focusing on. If I choose "All" within there now I can
scroll through all of the different options with out having to go back into different menus.
The X-T3 has the option to have monochrome images with a
slightly different hue. You can have a little bit of a blue tone to it or a
little bit of a warmer tone to it. This makes for some creative effects when
you're working with monochrome images. To do that you first need to choose one of
the black-and-white or Acros film simulations. Go into the menu go down to
film simulation and choose one of them. After you've made your choice, there the
next line down from film simulation is the ability to warm up or cool down the
image. You can actually preview the image as you're doing your adjustments so you
can get a feel for what you're looking for.
You go into that menu and then choosing toggling up or down you can see the
resulting image would look like with either a little bit of a blue tone to it
or a slightly warmer tone to it. There's also an option, if you by chance did not
make that choice before you captured the image, if you've captured the image using
a RAW file, you then can go into playback mode and using the in-camera raw
conversion, convert that to a monochrome image afterward and then
apply the same warming or cooling tone options within that image. You make your
choices within there as far as the different options whether warming and
cooling and created a secondary JPEG image from the resulting image. The X-T3
also offers the ability for an adjustment in the color chrome or color
chroming effect and what that does if you going to be capturing images with a lot
of, nature shots tend to have a lot of, very vibrant colors and they can
cause issues when recording them with your camera. There's an option within the
X-T3, on the same page on the IQ first page, the "Color Chrome" effect and you can
decide whether you want that effect to be "weak" or "strong" or turned
off entirely. Again, if you have recorded that in a RAW file,
you can then make image corrections after and create subsequent
JPEGs. Where this is useful for, as I mentioned, is if you've got really strong
colors and will help to process the colors ever so slightly
differently. Very useful if you're going to be shooting images of
flowers or very vibrant colors within there. the xt3 feature is Bluetooth with
The X-T3 features Bluetooth with
Wi-Fi connection. The Bluetooth enables for a very fast connection but it uses
Wi-Fi to do most of the legwork and transferring the images etc. Fairly easy
to set Bluetooth up. Let me show you how it's done. First you need to, on your
device you need to have "Fujifilm Camera Remote" downloaded and installed. From
there you would choose pairing registration. While we're doing that,
let's go on to the camera and on the camera I go into Settings > Connection
Setting and then - Bluetooth. I need to start a pairing registration.
Hit "Pairing Registration" on my phone. At which point there's a little bit of
communication and then you confirm that it's that device that your camera
that you're wanting to connect to. There's some further
communication that happens to set things up. Okay, the phone comes
up and says is it okay to talk to that camera? You say okay. On my camera it says:
"Do you want to use the date and time from your smartphone?". I always like to
turn that on and say "Yes". If ever I'm traveling, now my camera will
automatically have the correct time, based on the time from my smartphone,
from whatever network connections are on there. Let's take a look, down a
little deeper of the various menus within the Bluetooth menu on the X-T3.
It has now a choice of selecting the appropriate pairing connection, and I can
actually have up to seven different wireless devices connected to my X-T3.
Here's where I choose from the various devices. If I want to, if ever I by chance
lose a device or want to remove a device from the list that it connects up to, I
can delete a pairing registration here. You do need to delete the corresponding
pairing registration on your smart phone. Next down is Bluetooth "On" or "Off". Fairly
self-explanatory and normally you'd want to keep that on; reason being it offers..
Bluetooth is fairly low power so it doesn't draw a lot of power from
either your phone or from the camera itself.
Auto image transfer..What that does is it allows me to automatically transfer
images from the camera to my device immediately after I've taken the
pictures. If I wanted to, I could make it where I'm just transferring the images
one at a time afterward. Smart phone sync setting is the bottom of the
menu and here's where you can choose whether you want to have it where it's
connecting and pairing with your smart phone about every five minutes or so to
talk and share the location data as well as the time or just the location just
the time or turn it off completely. I like to leave it on as "Location and time".
At that point, when I'm traveling; "A", I've got the right time set in my camera as
well now every five minutes or so the camera will poll my device, confirm the
location now all of my images are automatically geotagged with the
location, so when I'm traveling I know what fountain or church or waterfall
that I'm taking a picture of and where it was located. Makes a lot easier when I
get back from vacation. Once I've got that connected and I've got the
Bluetooth running between my camera and my phone you'll notice that on the
screen the Bluetooth symbol is actually quite bright. If it's waiting for
connection then it will go to a slightly darker or dimmer view. When I've got it
paired up I have very quick remote release capabilities from my smart phone
now every time I push the button on my smart phone it uses Bluetooth to connect
up and capture images of what through my camera. I can back out of here now
because it's connected up to my smart phone automatically when I go actually
into either playback or a power the camera off its gonna transfer any
remaining images, because I've got auto transfer set on, over onto my smartphone.
So the first time around you do have to go into settings and you have to set
your wireless network to the camera but after that it will automatically
reconnect up to the smartphone to the camera directly each time out. Once I've
made my selection in settings I can go back to
my camera remote there's some communication that's happening between
the camera and the device and the images are transferred over automatically one
of the time over to my smartphone. It is a 3 megapixel file, by default, that's
usually enough that you're wanting for mobile transfer. If you want, you can make
it the full 26 megapixels, but that will fill up your device a lot faster.
As the images are being transferred over to my phone I can't use the internet
because it's actually using the Wi-Fi connection within there.
Now that the images are transferred over, I will find those images here on my in
my camera roll in my smartphone. They've already been transferred over
automatically. This makes it real easy for me to be able to share those images
very quickly and easily with my friends family and on various social network
sites that are available .
The X-T3 has two card slots. They're SD, SDHC and SDXC
compatible. They can also take the UHS-II cards, which are the very fast cards. This
is very useful if you're going to be shooting a lot of burst sequences or if
you want to be able to shoot RAW plus JPEG and have the buffer not be filled
up. Or if you're gonna be recording video, you really need to have those faster cards.
Once there are the two cards loaded in there, there's a few choices
when it comes to the memory management. If you go into the settings menu you can
then choose, in "Save Data Setup" whether you have the images saved
sequentially. At that point, the images, both the RAW and the JPEG are stored to
one card first and then to the second card after that first card fills up.
You can then determine whether you want to have that main card slot being card one
or card two. Then, if you want you can actually choose "Backup" and you can have
it where both the RAW file and the JPEG file are stored to card one and then a
redundant copy is stored to card two. This is very useful in case your card
ever becomes corrupted midway through a shoot, you've still got a fully
functioning card that you can record your subsequent images to. A lot of
people like to shoot RAW and JPEG and have RAW go to one card and the JPEGs go
to a second card. This is useful, at that point you can have the RAW files that
you can take back to your computer afterward and work within them or and
then you also have the JPEG files that you can potentially hand to the client
or work with those images right away and post those up on social media
etc. So, let me choose RAW + JPEG for this one and take a picture.
When I do that, now if I've got the RAW
that now if I've got the RAW files on one card and the JPEGs on another and I
wanted to delete them, I have to remember to delete that same file on both card one
as well as card two. There's an option for that, in case you
don't want to have to remember all that. When you're in the playback mode you
can actually choose, further down the menu, you have "Simultaneous Delete" at
that point it deletes both the RAW file and the JPEG file from the two separate
cards at the same time. I have that turned on, now I just go to erase and I
can actually choose which frame I want to erase push the button once and now
both that RAW file on one card and the JPEG file on another card are successfully deleted.
And those are just some of the features that are found
inside your Fujifilm X-T3. Hope you enjoyed. If you should have any
questions or comments about this video feel free to leave them in the comment
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next time I'm Gord of the Fuji Guys. Thanks for watching.